|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|David Kay||02/Apr||AltLd O/S||
Good conditions. Only 15m of steep ground.
First of our three routes still in good condition good climb
|Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton||10/Mar||Lead dnf||
matt thornton, molly hughes, Scott C
|Col Kingshott||01/Mar||Lead O/S||
Stepped in good nick
Pretty good condition today, though possibly a little steeper than sometimes on the crux. In general the ice is good and snow couloir above not too bad. Great route.
Abbed after the difficulties. Fat and hooked out. Felt low in the grade
Awesome ice today.
Nice bit of ice, climbed in combination with a route that finished up a chimney to the left of pygmy ridge (possibly grade III) which made for a great day.
Lead 'ice' pitch. Quality of the ice was atrocious, was basically a steep pile of slush.
Seconded main pitch. Very wet, with exposed traverse right to avoid brittle chandeliers on the left.
|andrzej kierzek||15/Feb||Lead O/S||
Very windy. No way to top up. Considerable avalanche risk forecast. Perfect ice on the route. I lead the route and we abseilef from in situ tat at the top.
Great pitch-decent ice-short and steep. Ab from in situ gear.
Scott's lead, managed to protect it even though we didn't have any screws... In-situ tat and a sling round a pillar. Really nice climbing, only one short steep section. Felt about WI3.
First scottish winter route of the season. Absolutely fantastic climb! Really fat ice, probably WI3. Reminds me why I do this to myself!
|david harvey||?/Feb||2nd O/S|
|Steve Perry||27/Jan||AltLd O/S||
Felt IV,5 today.
|Tom Redmond||27/Jan||AltLd O/S||
short, sweet, and dripping wet! josh led ice pitch
|lanky and weak||27/Jan||AltLd O/S||
|Timothy Miller||25/Jan||Solo O/S|
Hard ice, the crux felt overhanging and very pumpy. Harder than some of the Grade V's I've done. Fantastic stuff!
Short but surprisingly tricky! Ice quite featured and bullet-hard. IV, 5 currently. Lots of teams racking up air miles on this today...
thick but very brittle ice
First winter climb. Good fun
Steep 90 degree ice climbing, more like a grade V on that day
|Richard Kendrick||?/Jan||AltLd O/S||
Lead the crux
7deg C and in full spate but still a good laugh as a consolation. Wish I'd taken my wetsuit and some arm bands, got a good dowsing!
Thin, hard ice in G12s with only 3 screws ... abbed off to get a crampon upgrade!
|Ally Baba||16/Dec/14||AltLd O/S||
Both of us took lobs onto good gear, pulled through the crux on second go. Good nick. First Scottish lead so can't comment on grade...
Just for the novelty value of soloing it in Grade II conditions. Firm neve throughout.
Dave led as I was tired. Climb banked out to the start of the 'direct'. Good climb on a busy day. First time in the Northern Corries, I'll be back!
A snow plod - not even close to being in condition
No ice. very easy.
heavy spindrift, short pitch, mushy foot holds, not very nice, lots of effort climbing up to start due to deep snow
|Andy Hewison||11/Jan/14||AltLd O/S||
The ice pitch is quite short at the moment, but ok for the 2nd route of the day. Nice steep ice and fat enough to take a screw.
Top of the bulge just before the belay was soft snow - fell (on 2nd) and then got back on to finish
Rock hard ice, trended right at the top. Good steep fun!
Swifty did the (not so)hard ice pitch, me and Chris the others.
Chris Evans, swifty
I lead the direct pitch then we simul-soloed the rest of Aladdin's Mirror
settling an old score, after I took a whipper off it a few seasons back.
|Chris Homewood (Swindon MC)||19/Feb/13||2nd O/S||
|nigel pearson||08/Feb/13||Lead O/S||
my first grade iv. It was steep and not as fat as in some of the photos, but doable.
Did first pitch ice climb then descended and moved to Patey's Route
|waiting for snow||06/Feb/13||Lead dog||
Left hand side had some newer poor quality crumbly ice. Rest was bullet hard, and fragile in places. Couldn't see any usual "stepping" from other users, so a nice fresh climb. Gully above was full of windslab, Rock very iced up so friends were useless.
Got lanyard from axe stuck under a spike in the ice near the top and fell off trying to free it. Not the best..
Steve Mullan, Tom Smith
Did this after Libby had some falling fun to rescue ice screws. Nice and fat ice!
|wayne higgins leeds uk||27/Jan/13||2nd O/S||
Nice route!!! My first ice climb brill....
|Adam Booth||26/Jan/13||Lead O/S||
Short but steep.
Good ice, hasn't seen much traffic and plenty enough ice for some solid screws.
|Rosie Henstock||01/Jan/13||AltLd O/S|
|Mr Fuller||01/Jan/13||Lead dnf||
Bit of a shocker. Had enough energy to hang around the crux for 40 minutes and to downclimb and get the screws out, but not enough guts to commit to the route. Ice was a mix of brittle stuff and slush-puppy, though some was good.
Paul Gibbison, Crazy Tom
Backed off due to only 2 ice screws
Beautiful route. I lead P1. Kip lead P2, Ben led P3. Good condition.
Ice looked great but turned out to be hard and brittle took short fall when feet popped off. V. stiff for grade on day.
|peter fetlar||10/Dec/12||AltLd O/S||
good ice but thin
|Charlie Zephyr Booth||28/Jan/12||Lead O/S||
first route of the year, first time at sneachda, bit tricky at top as curtain wasnt fat but good fun
Lean conditions but solid enough.
Fat ice! Steep but very short lived
Lewis won the game of rock, paper, scissors and won the lead. In good condition for the grade.
First route of the season. The difficulties are short lived but in lean condition so a good IV if the steepest line is followed. In situ belay at the top.
|Jams Crwca||28/Mar/11||AltLd O/S||
2 pitches, lead steeper-than-looks ice pitch, moved alpine style on 2nd pitch
Led 2 and last piches. Short ice pitch fine after a week in Rjukan.
|Tomek S||19/Mar/11||Lead O/S||
Very soft ice. It was being melted down.
A very short pitch this year due to all the snow.
feeling ill, one last route before the 10.5hrs drive back!
|Harry Holmes||09/Mar/11||Solo rpt||
nice and hooky
Very fat plastic ice. In easy nick (compared with when I lead it anyway) with several rests available on the left between the short harder sections also being pretty chopped up and stepped out.
In pretty easy nic due to all the steps and hooks from previous ascents. One balancy move near top and it was all over.
|Col Kingshott||05/Mar/11||Lead O/S|
We left from home on Skye at 9am and headed to the Cairngorms for a half day in the Northern Corries. We decided on Aladdins Direct (IV,4)as it was looking thick despite the very mild weather. The ice was steep and not too wet and gave a good pitch of climbing. Colins words not mine, I was thinking that looks steep.
2nd winter route...
|jon clayton||01/Mar/11||AltLd O/S||
|andrew sandercock||28/Feb/11||Lead O/S||
First IV route. Chuffed with the tick and keeping it all together on the lead. Ice is still super fat although it is a little brittle but there's plenty to hook on anyway. Felt steeper than it looks!
Still pretty fat and blue after the thaw.
It wasn't pretty, feet blew out and ended up hanging from my axes and then it was scramble to a ledge. First half was lovely though, just a shame my foot work wasn't up to it
fun, lead pitches 2, 4 and 5 :)
|Murilo Lessa||14/Feb/11||AltLd O/S||
|Sean Bell||11/Feb/11||Lead O/S||
Blue, quite steep.Carried on to join Aladdins normal.
Solid blue ice, hooking all the way up P1, moved togeather on the snow slope (steep at Grade I!).
vaughany, Lesley McCafferty
Still thick ice despite warm temps. Pics on blog firstname.lastname@example.org
Pouring with water, but great fun.
Danny Bucknole, Dave Gleave
Cold and windy day. Walked to Coire an Lochain, but didn't like the look of the approach slopes and turned back. Walked over to Coire an t'Sneachda. Quite late in the day by this stage. A few teams queueing for the right hand side of AMD, but no one climbing on the left. We jumped on the opportunity. Igor led it in about 5 minutes, placing one screw near the bottom and a hex at the small roof. Constant spindrift made it difficult to see, hear, or breath. Met a Spanish climber at the top belay shouting and laughing in a state of mad excitement.
Tons of spindrift, character-building experience.
My First IV. Very nice ice:)
No decent screws until the last couple of moves as the ice was very wet
My first winter climb!
steeper than in them photos, got it on a hard freeze!
Tom & Emily
Emily Tickle Edwards, Sian Richards
|Alex Winter||22/Jan/11||2nd O/S||
Really steep. Good lead by Jordan. Some knobbers abbed down just as we were about to start. Soloed beforehand by some superhero wearing a pair of tattered Ronhills.
|Ginger McGrath||22/Jan/11||Solo O/S||
fat and blue!
Had formed fat and blue. Steep and long!
Mike Wild, Sam S
Nice wee fall and in great nick today:)
well 'ard today ngot the BIG pump machine working overtime
We climbed the ice then abbed back down from the tat.
Tom Skelhon, Chris Davis
awesome! Led ice pitch
glyn hudson, chris davis
|Steven Andrews||05/Jan/11||Lead O/S||
Fantastic if a little brittle ice.
Followed Jay up, still nice and fat despite thaw.
|David Sherratt||??/2011||Lead O/S|
Matt p1 (ice), me P2, Spike P3
Spike Reid, Matt Freear
Much steeper than last time I climbed it. Well pumpy!
|Harry Holmes||20/Dec/10||AltLd O/S||
nice ice pitch.
Liz Mittel, Lyndsey Mackay
|mr rob||19/Dec/10||AltLd dog||
In good nick, hard mind!
But I got up it eventually, haha...
Bike Bore, Jonny Marsh
|George Ormerod||07/Apr/10||AltLd O/S||
A bit drippy, but solid enough. Short and sweet technical difficulties.
|Roger Cruse||07/Apr/10||AltLd O/S||
very hard work to get in and out, snow up to waist height in places!!
Banked out with ice fall around 6m high - good aproach to Pygmy Ridge.
Did the ice pitch then abbed off. It was so banked out that the ice fall was only about 6m high - ice bouldering!
only one pitch then retreated, fierce wind and avalanche danger, but nice taste of a grade iv
Nice but short ice pitch.
Really short ice pitch as it was so banked out. A wee bit chopped up too, so could pretty much just hook up it. Fun tho :)
Gayle Davis, Ewan Whitaker
|Ann S||06/Mar/10||AltLd O/S||
Needless to say I led the easy bit above the ice and Adam got thumped by a huge spindrift avalanche which knocked someone else clean back over the icefall. Lucky for him it was well banked up with a soft landing.
gerhard mors/alan rodger
linda, claire melville
Short but steep pitch.
|Kyle Rance||21/Feb/10||2nd O/S||
|gordon henderson||21/Feb/10||2nd O/S||
|Ian Jones||20/Feb/10||Lead β||
Is this easy IV? Oh dear, I thought it was quite pumpy and I was glad it was over quick. My first ice for 32 years. Superb scenery higher up and great weather when we reached the top. Bagged my 6th Munro too. Wow. Thanks Stu.
Good ice pitch
|Ollie B||13/Feb/10||Lead O/S||
Climbed as warm up. Then downclimbed aladdins mirror and went to pateys. ice steep for tech 4 this time?
|John Pickles||03/Feb/10||AltLd O/S||
Andrew Morton, Zac Poulton
|The Bad Cough||29/Jan/10||Lead O/S||
|Big Lee||25/Jan/10||Lead O/S||
Only the last 5 metres of the route weren't banked out. Very easy for the grade currently.
Nipped up in between getting pounded by spindrift slides! Standing glissade down aladdins couloir was awesome! Nearly fooked it when, after picking up my sac from the base of the route, I bum slid back down...... Must remember to only do the 20ft freefall slide over the crags when its all rammed with powder in the corrie!
Jenny Crook, Marshall Kinnear
John Roe, Marshall Kinnear
Dave & Greame
|Daniel Sutherland||17/Dec/09||Lead O/S|
first Ice climb, possibly should of practised placing an ice screw on firm ground first... Lovely climb, really good ice!
|Fergus Cuthill||12/Dec/09||Lead O/S|
Jo's first ever winter climb! Steep but helpful ice with some good spindrift dumps...
MRT Valley: Andrew
Climbed left hand steeper bit this time.
Steep! Finished up the mixed ground above at III.
pretty fat compared with most the pictures online. Got pumped trying to place a screw on the crux and ran it out! Found the crux harder than other grade IVs I've done that given the route is much shorter.
ross and alex
Nikki and Duanne
Very straightforward climbing - gear isn't great (poor screws in the conditions we found it in) but it's only a couple of pulls and you're over the difficulties.
With Eric Hildrew
Fantastic day, great conditions. Second time on Ice.
|joe larner||03/Jan/09||Lead O/S||
Grade II climbing grade IV debris thanks to the hoards above. So hacked out its how i imagine dry-tooling up an easy slab on an indoor wall is like.
|Neil D||?/Jan/09||Lead O/S|
good ice pitch. steeper than i looks! abbed off at the top of the 1st pitch.
Ice alternatly bomber then mushy crap, gear very worrying. Nice wee quick route tho, abbed after the first pitch.
Went direct instead of joining the grade 1, fantastic mixed
Doug and Eleri
Steep early season
Fun but short lived. Just like Krokan but with a bit more of a walk in! Felt about WI 2/3
Kunal led thin ice pitch leaving the dull as hell snow leads to me!
|Greg Boswell||30/Nov/08||AltLd O/S|
|Jim Slater||02/Nov/08||2nd O/S||
In great condition especially for so early in the season (with Phil and Tim).
Tim Pearson, Phil Lee
Third time I've done this route and this was definitely the steepest - Emily managed to get 5 screws in...shame it's not twice as long....
Pretty thin pretty nice, Neil took a good fall half way up the main pitch, and managed to leave his axe up there but got straight back on and got it easy second time.
Sweet, bit thin but no excuse for a mighty fall! went too far round icicle to try get a rest that wasnt there, and suddenly came off, leaving one axe half way up! nice screw held fine and off i went back up to dispach the fine little pitch
|charlie barnes||22/Jan/08||Lead dog||
smegging mission on straight axes, fell on a stubby at the top. next year good tech axes. coffee and a fag at the top of the pitch. fun sitting in the pub afterwards
Andy S, Geoff M
|Christopher Williamson||?/Jan/08||Lead O/S|
Scott lead the ice pitch in very dodge conditions. Was very impressed.
|Mark Walter||?/Dec/07||2nd RP||
Al and Mike
Flashed, after previously seeing a mate take a winger off it years before.
|Neil Adams||07/Mar/07||2nd rpt||
Also lead the right-hand icefall (about III)
|Southern Mark Smith||??/2007||-|
|tumbling wizard||?/Dec/06||Lead O/S|
|Neil Adams||??/2006||Lead dnf||
Thin ice and crap technique resulting in a nasty fall.
|Dangerous Dave||??/2005||Lead O/S|
|Andy Clarke||17/Jan/04||Lead O/S||
Not a huge build up, so felt pretty steep. Only Emma's 2nd or 3rd winter route, so an excellent effort.
First ever ice climb.
|Tim W||?/Dec/02||2nd O/S|
|jamie ward||13/Mar/02||Lead O/S||
am_bodach, Paul R
Adrian Pedley, Paul Tucker
The coire was in great condition. it was also packed.
|Chris the Tall||?/Feb/01||2nd|
|John Pickles||24/Feb/00||Lead O/S||
Dan did a backwards summersault to land perfectly in the snow after both axes ripped.
|oor wullie||??/1998||Lead O/S||
Soloed sometime in the 90's
Our last climb together. Anthony unfortunately killed on the Ben 2 weeks later, falling through cornice descending via the abseil posts.
|Stuart S||?/Feb/94||Lead O/S||
with Durk. Felt hard at the time
Part of Winter Skills course at Glenmore Lodge
Virtually no ice
|Steve Crowe||10/Mar/88||Solo O/S|
done with rob trevitt my first steep ice and the first placement of an ice screw.
A super route, look forward to more like this
|Peter Main||19/Dec/74||2nd dnf||
Thaw conditions, climbing on melting ice, neither safe nor fun.