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Aladdin's Mirror Direct* IV 4

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[Unknown climbers on ice climb at Coire an t'Sneachda, 3 kb]The only obvious blue ice in the couloir. A short ice wall leads to an in situ belay. The upper reaches of the normal route offer some superb scenery. Very suitable for learners. Can vary hugely in difficulty and length depending on the current conditions.

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs.

Photo: Unknown climbers on ice climb at Coire an t'Sneachda © Lumbering Oaf
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 455 logbooks, and on 64 wishlists.

Just for the novelty value of soloing it in Grade II conditions. Firm neve throughout.
JamesRoddie - Solo O/S - 11/Mar/14

Dave led as I was tired. Climb banked out to the start of the 'direct'. Good climb on a busy day. First time in the Northern Corries, I'll be back!
davidbird63 - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/14 with David Adcock

ten4dave - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/14 with David Bird

A snow plod - not even close to being in condition
monsteratt - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Nick Whimster

No ice. very easy.
theamerican - Solo - Mar/14

n.LiVE - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/14 with Shane

ChristyCole - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/14 with David Kilner

fieldworktutor - 2nd - 22/Feb/14 with Christy Cole, David Kilner, ChristyCole

heavy spindrift, short pitch, mushy foot holds, not very nice, lots of effort climbing up to start due to deep snow
marzi - 22/Jan/14 with will smith

Running_Board - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/14 with Steve Maher

Callum_Johnson - Solo O/S - 18/Jan/14

Piers Harley - AltLd - 16/Jan/14 with Jeremy Windsor

The ice pitch is quite short at the moment, but ok for the 2nd route of the day. Nice steep ice and fat enough to take a screw.
Andy Hewison - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Drew Connelly

Top of the bulge just before the belay was soft snow - fell (on 2nd) and then got back on to finish
budchawla - 2nd dog - 04/Jan/14 with Alexander Orlov

dkilner - AltLd - 2014 with Christy Cole

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - TR dog - 23/Apr/13

Rock hard ice, trended right at the top. Good steep fun!
michaelmurray - 2nd - 12/Mar/13 with Mike Brownlow

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Mar/13

joe_lancs - Lead - 02/Mar/13

eolmar - 2nd - 02/Mar/13

Swifty did the (not so)hard ice pitch, me and Chris the others.
mikehenesy - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Chris Evans, swifty

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Feb/13

andybrown114 - AltLd - 22/Feb/13 with Jim Watchorn, Ade Mellor

Hidden - 22/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/13

I lead the direct pitch then we simul-soloed the rest of Aladdin's Mirror
thomaspomfrett - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/13 with Ali Baxter

settling an old score, after I took a whipper off it a few seasons back.
BallsOfSteel - Lead rpt - 20/Feb/13 with duncan osgood

bgreen3761 - 2nd O/S - 20/Feb/13

Chris Homewood (Swindon MC) - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Andy Dennis


Phil_Hall_97 - 2nd - 09/Feb/13 with Mark Chadwick

FragOcon - 2nd - 09/Feb/13

my first grade iv. It was steep and not as fat as in some of the photos, but doable.
nigel pearson - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/13 with Robin

Did first pitch ice climb then descended and moved to Patey's Route
kj001 - 2nd - 08/Feb/13 with Phil Dowthwaite

Left hand side had some newer poor quality crumbly ice. Rest was bullet hard, and fragile in places. Couldn't see any usual "stepping" from other users, so a nice fresh climb. Gully above was full of windslab, Rock very iced up so friends were useless.
waiting for snow - Lead dog - 06/Feb/13

Got lanyard from axe stuck under a spike in the ice near the top and fell off trying to free it. Not the best..
LibS - Lead dnf - 02/Feb/13 with Steve Mullan, Tom Smith

Did this after Libby had some falling fun to rescue ice screws. Nice and fat ice!
thomasaneurinsmith - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Feb/13

robgixer - Lead O/S - Feb/13

Caspar - 2nd - 27/Jan/13 with Jordan Pethean

Nice route!!! My first ice climb brill....
wayne higgins leeds uk - 2nd O/S - 27/Jan/13 with dave payne

Short but steep.
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/13 with Steve Seale

One axe in at the top when my other axe rips and I barn door. My leash snaps and I take my first fall on an ice screw,
Caspar - Lead dnf - 26/Jan/13 with Ed Cromwell

gowla - 2nd - 26/Jan/13 with adam booth

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67789
ecromwell - AltLd dnf - 26/Jan/13 with Caspian James

Good ice, hasn't seen much traffic and plenty enough ice for some solid screws.
Kayan - Lead rpt - 20/Jan/13 with Rachel leese, David Brock

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jan/13

TGreen - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/13 with Rosie Henstock

Rosie Henstock - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/13 with Tom Green

Bit of a shocker. Had enough energy to hang around the crux for 40 minutes and to downclimb and get the screws out, but not enough guts to commit to the route. Ice was a mix of brittle stuff and slush-puppy, though some was good.
Mr Fuller - Lead dnf - 01/Jan/13 with Paul Gibbison, Crazy Tom

flett53 - 2nd dnf - Jan/13

wheelsucker - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Backed off due to only 2 ice screws
Ross.Cooper - Lead dnf - 30/Dec/12 with Mark Chevassut

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/12

Beautiful route. I lead P1. Kip lead P2, Ben led P3. Good condition.
tomwheeler - AltLd - 17/Dec/12 with bencoope

luke321 - Lead - 13/Dec/12 with Jack Hodgson, Tom Jagger

Jack.H.92 - AltLd - 13/Dec/12

Ice looked great but turned out to be hard and brittle took short fall when feet popped off. V. stiff for grade on day.
gst - Lead dog - 12/Dec/12 with Al Walker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Dec/12

good ice but thin
peter fetlar - AltLd O/S - 10/Dec/12 with stewart

Hidden - AltLd dog - 11/Nov/12

first route of the year, first time at sneachda, bit tricky at top as curtain wasnt fat but good fun
Charlie Zephyr Booth - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/12

Lean conditions but solid enough.
Kayan - Lead rpt - 22/Jan/12 with Rachel leese

Callum Anderson - 2012

Fat ice! Steep but very short lived
benclimbing - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/11 with Dave Latimer

Lewis won the game of rock, paper, scissors and won the lead. In good condition for the grade.
Karl Wooffindin - 2nd - 19/Dec/11 with Lewis Grey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/11

Pay attention - 2nd - 18/Dec/11

First route of the season. The difficulties are short lived but in lean condition so a good IV if the steepest line is followed. In situ belay at the top.
Misha - Lead O/S - 18/Dec/11 with Paul

Hidden - AltLd dog - 17/Dec/11

Owen1984 - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/11

mark v - 2nd - 28/Mar/11 with Mike Norbury

2 pitches, lead steeper-than-looks ice pitch, moved alpine style on 2nd pitch
Jams Crwca - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/11 with Danny

Led 2 and last piches. Short ice pitch fine after a week in Rjukan.
gilbert - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with John Naylor

Brucemacrosson - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Euan Scott

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/11

Very soft ice. It was being melted down.
Tomek S - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Wojtek Polkowski

joe_lancs - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

Wojttek - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Tomek S

A very short pitch this year due to all the snow.
GaryK - Solo - 18/Mar/11

feeling ill, one last route before the 10.5hrs drive back!
MoWalker3 - AltLd - 12/Mar/11 with Quiet Ian

cmaradcliffe - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/11

rcammack - Solo O/S - 09/Mar/11 with Harry Holmes

nice and hooky
naffan - Solo rpt - 09/Mar/11 with Robbie Cammack

Very fat plastic ice. In easy nick (compared with when I lead it anyway) with several rests available on the left between the short harder sections also being pretty chopped up and stepped out.
CurlyStevo - 2nd - 07/Mar/11 with Kenny

In pretty easy nic due to all the steps and hooks from previous ascents. One balancy move near top and it was all over.
ksneds - Lead - 07/Mar/11 with stevo

Col Kingshott - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/11

TomPollock - 2nd O/S - 04/Mar/11 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/11

dan doran - 04/Mar/11 with Rab mcmurray

dan doran - 04/Mar/11 with Rab mcmurray

We left from home on Skye at 9am and headed to the Cairngorms for a half day in the Northern Corries. We decided on Aladdins Direct (IV,4)as it was looking thick despite the very mild weather. The ice was steep and not too wet and gave a good pitch of climbing. Colins words not mine, I was thinking that looks steep.
artyscot - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/11 with Colin Threlfall

2nd winter route...
DannyK - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/11 with pep

jon clayton - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/11 with sasha

martinbettridge06 - AltLd - Mar/11

Gumery - 2nd - Mar/11 with Hannah Francis, Tom Chilcot, alex reid

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Feb/11

First IV route. Chuffed with the tick and keeping it all together on the lead. Ice is still super fat although it is a little brittle but there's plenty to hook on anyway. Felt steeper than it looks!
andrew sandercock - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/11 with Connor Cussell

CRiddiford - 2nd - 27/Feb/11 with Steve J

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Feb/11

Still pretty fat and blue after the thaw.
joeydurkin - 2nd - 26/Feb/11 with Patch

It wasn't pretty, feet blew out and ended up hanging from my axes and then it was scramble to a ledge. First half was lovely though, just a shame my foot work wasn't up to it
Jimmy1976 - 2nd O/S - 26/Feb/11

JasonK - Lead - 26/Feb/11 with Euan Boyd

JRae - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/11 with Paul M

pmurdy - 2nd O/S - 26/Feb/11 with Jonny Reay

DPaul - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/11

brighters - 2nd - 26/Feb/11

dan-8990 - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/11 with PB

gazb - AltLd - 26/Feb/11 with felix

fun, lead pitches 2, 4 and 5 :)
crimpy - 24/Feb/11

buzby78 - AltLd - 20/Feb/11 with McGeek

Murilo Lessa - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/11 with Alex Desborough

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Feb/11

alanramsay - 2nd - 12/Feb/11 with Bill Strachan

Steve Woollard - Lead - 12/Feb/11 with Lou Reynolds

Blue, quite steep.Carried on to join Aladdins normal.
SeanB - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/11 with rob

pattisonr - 2nd O/S - 11/Feb/11 with sean bell

Solid blue ice, hooking all the way up P1, moved togeather on the snow slope (steep at Grade I!).
Merlin - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/11 with vaughany, Lesley McCafferty

stevebarratt - Solo - 05/Feb/11

Still thick ice despite warm temps. Pics on blog colin.threlfall@wordpress.com
colinthrelfall - 03/Feb/11 with Archie

Pouring with water, but great fun.
HIGHTOWER - Lead rpt - 02/Feb/11 with Danny Bucknole, Dave Gleave

tsjx - 2nd - 02/Feb/11

chedder - 2nd - 02/Feb/11 with HIGHTOWER

on hooks
r_o_b_h2 - Lead O/S - Feb/11 with stu adams

jonesieboy - 2nd - Feb/11

Phil Emerson - Lead - Feb/11

Cold and windy day. Walked to Coire an Lochain, but didn't like the look of the approach slopes and turned back. Walked over to Coire an t'Sneachda. Quite late in the day by this stage. A few teams queueing for the right hand side of AMD, but no one climbing on the left. We jumped on the opportunity. Igor led it in about 5 minutes, placing one screw near the bottom and a hex at the small roof. Constant spindrift made it difficult to see, hear, or breath. Met a Spanish climber at the top belay shouting and laughing in a state of mad excitement.
Kirill - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Igor Gotlibovych

Tons of spindrift, character-building experience.
ig248 - AltLd - 30/Jan/11 with Kirill

My First IV. Very nice ice:)
a13x - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Jordan Phethean

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Mike Nuttall

MikeLeeds - 2nd - 29/Jan/11 with Clive Greenwood

J1PEF - 28/Jan/11

No decent screws until the last couple of moves as the ice was very wet
francois - Lead - 28/Jan/11 with Catherine, Chris

My first winter climb!
BelayBunney - 2nd O/S - 28/Jan/11 with Catherine, Francois

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jan/11

steeper than in them photos, got it on a hard freeze!
pudding - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/11 with alex winter

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jan/11

SianR - 2nd - 23/Jan/11 with Tom & Emily

thomasaneurinsmith - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Emily Tickle Edwards, Sian Richards

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Jan/11

Really steep. Good lead by Jordan. Some knobbers abbed down just as we were about to start. Soloed beforehand by some superhero wearing a pair of tattered Ronhills.
Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Jordan

fat and blue!
Ginger McGrath - Solo O/S - 22/Jan/11

busy
bfw87 - 2nd - 22/Jan/11

Had formed fat and blue. Steep and long!
Cardi - 2nd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Mike Wild, Sam S

scorky345 - Lead - 20/Jan/11 with Luke Hefferman

Only did the waterfall before abseiling off as this was just to have a go at some steep ice and it was in condition.
owrehleeoh - 2nd - 19/Jan/11

Nice wee fall and in great nick today:)
sebrider - Lead - 09/Jan/11 with Sophie

sophiecb - 2nd - 09/Jan/11 with Seb

well 'ard today ngot the BIG pump machine working overtime
Timo Austino - Lead - 08/Jan/11 with Nats

We climbed the ice then abbed back down from the tat.
R0bbie - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/11 with Taba

Glyn - AltLd - 06/Jan/11 with Tom Skelhon, Chris Davis

awesome! Led ice pitch
tskelhon - AltLd O/S - 06/Jan/11 with glyn hudson, chris davis

Good ice but banked out at the bottom.
andybrown114 - Lead - 06/Jan/11 with Rick Brown

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jan/11

Fantastic if a little brittle ice.
Steven Andrews - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/11 with Rich Garside

yellow - Lead - 04/Jan/11

richiegarside - 2nd O/S - Jan/11 with steven Andrews

nikkimac - Jan/11 with Flash

wi11 - 2nd β - Jan/11 with Chris Gee

peebles boy - 2nd - Jan/11

Hidden - Lead - Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Followed Jay up, still nice and fat despite thaw.
shugsan - 2nd O/S - 2011 with Jason King

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

newtonmore - 2011

Hidden - 2011

David Sherratt - Lead O/S - 2011

keithru - 2011

Matt p1 (ice), me P2, Spike P3
bridget143 - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/10 with Spike Reid, Matt Freear

carl_123 - Lead dog - 29/Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Dec/10

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Dec/10

joeydurkin - Lead - 24/Dec/10 with Steve Campball

Much steeper than last time I climbed it. Well pumpy!
Conan - 2nd - 20/Dec/10 with Alan Thorpe

nice ice pitch.
naffan - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/10 with Liz Mittel, Lyndsey Mackay

Hidden - 20/Dec/10

tech - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/10 with Conan Harrod

In good nick, hard mind!
mr rob - AltLd dog - 19/Dec/10 with jonny, jp

But I got up it eventually, haha...
JdotP - Lead dog - 19/Dec/10 with Bike Bore, Jonny Marsh

willhawkins - Lead dog - 18/Dec/10

NervosaSam - 12/Dec/10

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Dec/10

Crowley6969 - 2nd O/S - Dec/10

Drew M - AltLd - Dec/10 with Fred Lyon

LakesWinter - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/10 with Mark, Phil B

philboy - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/10 with matt g

Dustin - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/10 with Pat Ingram

A bit drippy, but solid enough. Short and sweet technical difficulties.
George Ormerod - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/10 with Andy S

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/10 with Kris

Hidden - Solo - 07/Apr/10

Chris wilson - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/10 with kev

very hard work to get in and out, snow up to waist height in places!!
kevburr - 2nd dog - 03/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/10

Banked out with ice fall around 6m high - good aproach to Pygmy Ridge.
moose ridd - AltLd - 28/Mar/10 with M.Sadler

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead - 26/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Mar/10

Did the ice pitch then abbed off. It was so banked out that the ice fall was only about 6m high - ice bouldering!
Brendan - Lead dnf - 23/Mar/10 with Andy, Paul

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Mar/10

only one pitch then retreated, fierce wind and avalanche danger, but nice taste of a grade iv
marzi - 2nd - 17/Mar/10 with smiler cuthbertson

Nice but short ice pitch.
telemarker - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Paul F

Really short ice pitch as it was so banked out. A wee bit chopped up too, so could pretty much just hook up it. Fun tho :)
freudy_love - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/10 with Francis Williams

Hidden - 09/Mar/10

FrankW - Lead rpt - 08/Mar/10 with Peter T

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Mar/10

Cacyn - 2nd O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Gayle Davis, Ewan Whitaker

Needless to say I led the easy bit above the ice and Adam got thumped by a huge spindrift avalanche which knocked someone else clean back over the icefall. Lucky for him it was well banked up with a soft landing.
Ann S - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Adam

morsy - 2nd rpt - 06/Mar/10 with gerhard mors/alan rodger

melville18 - 2nd - 06/Mar/10 with linda, claire melville

alan.rodger - AltLd - 06/Mar/10 with gerhard mors, stephan mors

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Mar/10

demarcation86 - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead - 03/Mar/10

efetunc - AltLd - Mar/10 with Andrew Asaam

Short but steep pitch.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - 2nd - 21/Feb/10 with Kyle, Coups

Kyle Rance - 2nd O/S - 21/Feb/10 with Mark Coupland

gordon henderson - 2nd O/S - 21/Feb/10 with MRT

In poor nick for a good climb - banked out so that only 15ft or so of ice and chopped up so badly that you could hook the whole way, no need to make placements.
StuDoig - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Ed Smith

Is this easy IV? Oh dear, I thought it was quite pumpy and I was glad it was over quick. My first ice for 32 years. Superb scenery higher up and great weather when we reached the top. Bagged my 6th Munro too. Wow. Thanks Stu.
Ian Jones - Lead β - 20/Feb/10 with Stuart Mitchell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/10

djking1983 - Solo O/S - 18/Feb/10

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/10 with Ann S

Bram - Solo - 16/Feb/10 with Dave King

Good ice pitch
LostinLondon - 2nd - 15/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Feb/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 14/Feb/10

bigfatbassist - AltLd - 14/Feb/10

Helen23 - 2nd - 14/Feb/10 with Ben Hirst

Stephen18 - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Feb/10

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 13/Feb/10

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/10 with M.Rankine

Climbed as warm up. Then downclimbed aladdins mirror and went to pateys. ice steep for tech 4 this time?
sneaks - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/10 with Andrew Innes

Hidden - Solo - 08/Feb/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/10

banked out
amy - Lead - 07/Feb/10

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Feb/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Feb/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/10

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/10 with Andrew Morton, Zac Poulton

John Kettle - Lead - Feb/10

George Lewis - 2nd - Feb/10

TeeBee - Lead O/S - Feb/10

tjmillen - Lead - 31/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/10

The Bad Cough - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/10 with Mike Cullinen

will6459 - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/10 with Andy Hext, Dave Mason

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/10

Kayan - Lead O/S - 27/Jan/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 26/Jan/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/10

Only the last 5 metres of the route weren't banked out. Very easy for the grade currently.
Big Lee - Lead O/S - 25/Jan/10 with James Dunn

mes32 - 2nd - 25/Jan/10

Nipped up in between getting pounded by spindrift slides! Standing glissade down aladdins couloir was awesome! Nearly fooked it when, after picking up my sac from the base of the route, I bum slid back down...... Must remember to only do the 20ft freefall slide over the crags when its all rammed with powder in the corrie!
Timo Austino - Solo - 24/Jan/10

Hidden - Lead - Jan/10

Hidden - Lead β - Jan/10

Hidden - 2010

PaulCunningham - 2010

PaulCunningham - 2010

colinthrelfall - 2010

philw - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2010

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Dec/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Dec/09

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/09 with Katy Vose

John Roe - Lead - 29/Dec/09 with Jenny Crook, Marshall Kinnear

heist182 - AltLd - 29/Dec/09 with Jamie Tattersall

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/09

Jenny Crook - 2nd - 29/Dec/09 with John Roe, Marshall Kinnear

groovy_nut - Lead rpt - 21/Dec/09 with Patrick

ckmoffat - 2nd dnf - 20/Dec/09 with Dave & Greame

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Dec/09

Daniel Sutherland - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/09 with Lachlan Macleod

Got halfway up before chickening out and backing off, letting Simon lead.
Caspar - 2nd - 13/Dec/09 with Simon Reynolds

first Ice climb, possibly should of practised placing an ice screw on firm ground first... Lovely climb, really good ice!
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/09 with Caspian

Liam Ingram - 2nd - 12/Dec/09 with Fergus Cuthill

Fergus Cuthill - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/09 with Liam Ingram

lachlan - Dec/09 with daniel sutherland

Super thin ice. Basically solo.
scottbecker - AltLd O/S - Nov/09 with Mark Jarvie

Dave Latimer - 2nd - Apr/09

breithorn4164 - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/09 with Rupert

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/09

Jo's first ever winter climb! Steep but helpful ice with some good spindrift dumps...
Chad123 - Lead rpt - 07/Mar/09 with Jo

KKilroy - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Daryl

kleky - 2nd O/S - Mar/09 with MRT Valley: Andrew

barophobe - 2nd - Mar/09

Bram - Lead - 16/Feb/09 with Dan Jordan

Climbed left hand steeper bit this time.
HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 15/Feb/09 with Abo

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/09

BenJacobs - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/09 with Steve

jsrous - 14/Feb/09 with Sam Bennett

Steep! Finished up the mixed ground above at III.
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/09 with CarolineH

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Feb/09

CarolineH - 2nd - 13/Feb/09 with Dave

Hidden - Lead - 01/Feb/09

pretty fat compared with most the pictures online. Got pumped trying to place a screw on the crux and ran it out! Found the crux harder than other grade IVs I've done that given the route is much shorter.
CurlyStevo - Lead - Feb/09 with Kenny

ross and alex
smcw - Feb/09 with rmc

Tobes - Lead - Feb/09 with mejules

dave_tomlin - Feb/09 with Tom Evans

jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/09 with Nikki and Duanne

nikkimac - 2nd - 31/Jan/09 with Jonnie and Duanne

Very straightforward climbing - gear isn't great (poor screws in the conditions we found it in) but it's only a couple of pulls and you're over the difficulties.
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/09 with Andy F

PeteH - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/09 with Dave Leonard

DaveLeonard - Lead - 29/Jan/09 with PeteH

With Eric Hildrew
edinbed - Lead - 24/Jan/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jan/09

adamscottthomas - 2nd - 14/Jan/09 with Gwilym Starks

Fantastic day, great conditions. Second time on Ice.
rmc - 2nd O/S - 10/Jan/09 with Sheena McWilliam

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jan/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/09

BorisVBlade - 2nd O/S - 05/Jan/09 with Phillip Leadbeater

The_Boy_ODwyer - TR O/S - 04/Jan/09

robertporter - Lead O/S - 04/Jan/09 with James O'Dwyer

Grade II climbing grade IV debris thanks to the hoards above. So hacked out its how i imagine dry-tooling up an easy slab on an indoor wall is like.
joe larner - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/09 with Rolf

inuklm - AltLd - 03/Jan/09 with Dave Gent

Kyuzo - 2nd - 03/Jan/09

groovy_nut - 2nd - 02/Jan/09 with Rich

will6459 - 2nd - Jan/09 with Mike Reading

Neil D - Lead O/S - Jan/09 with Boriz Korzh

jonnybull - Lead O/S - Jan/09

rossn - 2009

Hidden - 29/Dec/08

joeydurkin - 2nd - 29/Dec/08 with Tim

HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 29/Dec/08 with Dave Gleave

simon_D - 2nd - 28/Dec/08 with Roger C

good ice pitch. steeper than i looks! abbed off at the top of the 1st pitch.
mulletcocktail2000 - 2nd O/S - 28/Dec/08 with john

Ice alternatly bomber then mushy crap, gear very worrying. Nice wee quick route tho, abbed after the first pitch.
andymoin - Lead rpt - 20/Dec/08 with Warren

adw07 - 2nd O/S - 20/Dec/08 with Andy Main

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Dec/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/08

Alexander123 - Lead - 17/Dec/08 with scotty webster

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 17/Dec/08

Went direct instead of joining the grade 1, fantastic mixed
Protheroe - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/08 with Doug and Eleri

Steep early season
Pete Main - AltLd - 17/Dec/08 with Andrew S

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Dec/08

Fun but short lived. Just like Krokan but with a bit more of a walk in! Felt about WI 2/3
mgeek - Lead O/S - Dec/08 with Neill Busby

Kunal led thin ice pitch leaving the dull as hell snow leads to me!
davidgent - AltLd O/S - Dec/08 with Kunal

Greg Boswell - AltLd O/S - 30/Nov/08 with James Dunn

In great condition especially for so early in the season (with Phil and Tim).
Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 02/Nov/08 with Tim Pearson, Phil

jazzyjackson - 30/Mar/08 with Jimbob

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/08

alaan - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/08 with Jim

Third time I've done this route and this was definitely the steepest - Emily managed to get 5 screws in...shame it's not twice as long....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/08 with Emily

Pretty thin pretty nice, Neil took a good fall half way up the main pitch, and managed to leave his axe up there but got straight back on and got it easy second time.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Neil Mackenzie

Sweet, bit thin but no excuse for a mighty fall! went too far round icicle to try get a rest that wasnt there, and suddenly came off, leaving one axe half way up! nice screw held fine and off i went back up to dispach the fine little pitch
Neil Mackenzie - AltLd - 01/Mar/08 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/08

djking1983 - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/08 with Rich Brammall

FrankW - Solo O/S - 11/Feb/08 with None

smegging mission on straight axes, fell on a stubby at the top. next year good tech axes. coffee and a fag at the top of the pitch. fun sitting in the pub afterwards
charlie barnes - Lead dog - 22/Jan/08 with dan

barney_edin - 2nd - 20/Jan/08 with Andy S, Geoff M

akhughes - Solo O/S - 19/Jan/08

Brown - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/08 with Henry

Christopher Williamson - Lead O/S - Jan/08

fritz_in_aotearoa - 2008

Alco-nomic - AltLd - 2008

wee hippy - Lead - 2008 with janis tait

Scott lead the ice pitch in very dodge conditions. Was very impressed.
markjarvie - 2nd - 2008 with scott becker

Hidden - 2008

Mark Walter - 2nd RP - Dec/07 with Al and Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - Dec/07

Hidden - Lead - 09/Mar/07

Captain Solo - Solo - 08/Mar/07

Flashed, after previously seeing a mate take a winger off it years before.
andyinglis - Lead β - 07/Mar/07 with neil adams

Also lead the right-hand icefall (about III)
Neil Adams - 2nd rpt - 07/Mar/07 with Andy Inglis

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/07

simonw1 - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/07 with Steve

Richard White - 2007

Hidden - 2007

timmy-ts - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - 2007

tumbling wizard - Lead O/S - Dec/06

SteveM - AltLd - 08/Jan/06 with Keith

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Jan/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jan/06

Thin ice and crap technique resulting in a nasty fall.
Neil Adams - Lead dnf - 2006

keith leonard - AltLd - 2006

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/05

Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 2005

Not a huge build up, so felt pretty steep. Only Emma's 2nd or 3rd winter route, so an excellent effort.
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 17/Jan/04 with EmmaV

Ed Saint - Jan/04

djking1983 - AltLd - 28/Feb/03 with Dave Frid

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 2003

rossn - Lead - 2003 with Dave Stapely

First ever ice climb.
Nevis_Ben - 2nd - 21/Dec/02 with Chris Thorne

Tim W - 2nd O/S - Dec/02 with Matt Kilner

jamie ward - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/02 with John Howes

220bpm - Lead O/S - Feb/02 with Alan

Hidden - Lead - Feb/02

Tarquin - 2002

niall_mac - Lead - Mar/01 with am_bodach, Paul R

towdman - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/01 with Daniel Armitage

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 25/Feb/01 with Adrian Pedley, Paul Tucker

The coire was in great condition. it was also packed.
AndyP - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/01 with Graham

Chris the Tall - 2nd - Feb/01

Spade - 2nd - Feb/01 with Gordon Bromley

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 03/Jan/01 with Alan Smith

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Mar/00

abbeywall - 2nd - Mar/00 with K

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/00 with John Short

Dan did a backwards summersault to land perfectly in the snow after both axes ripped.
BenTiffin - 2nd - Feb/00 with Dan Robinson

brockers - 2000 with CarlZ

Hidden - 2nd - 2000

Graham Kennedy - 2nd - 2000 with Andrew Porter

graeme gatherer - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/99

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jan/99

Hidden - AltLd - 1999

seanyt - AltLd - Feb/98

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Jan/98

oor wullie - Lead O/S - 1998 with Nick P

dangates - Solo - 1998

Louis Hume - Lead - 1998 with Mustillos

innes - Lead - 1997

markharro - AltLd - 23/Dec/96 with Allan

Soloed sometime in the 90's
Lone Rider - Solo - 1996

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Dec/95

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Feb/95

frost - Lead - Feb/95

Our last climb together. Anthony unfortunately killed on the Ben 2 weeks later, falling through cornice descending via the abseil posts.
Sean Kelly - Solo - Feb/95 with Anthony Marsh

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1995

Stuart S - Lead O/S - Feb/94 with Mark Atkins

with Durk. Felt hard at the time
michaelb1 - Lead - Feb/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jan/94

Andy Say - Lead - 01/Jan/94

Yourlead - 2nd - 21/Apr/91 with Graham Penny

Part of Winter Skills course at Glenmore Lodge
Yourlead - 2nd - 30/Jan/91

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jan/91

Yourlead - 2nd - 27/Mar/90 with Graham Penny

Virtually no ice
Yourlead - AltLd dnf - 05/Dec/89 with Graham Penny

Hidden - Solo O/S - Mar/89

David Smith - Lead - Mar/88

mark-abz - Solo - 20/Feb/88 with Andy W

Hidden - Feb/87

Mark Kemball - Lead - 30/Jan/84 with Mike Dennison

Hidden - Feb/83

done with rob trevitt my first steep ice and the first placement of an ice screw.
Dave Almond - 1983 with Rob Trevitt

Bob - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/82 with D. Geere

Hidden - 2nd - Dec/82

A super route, look forward to more like this
munro109 - 2nd - 07/Feb/75 with Robin Andrews

Thaw conditions, climbing on melting ice, neither safe nor fun.
munro109 - 2nd dnf - 19/Dec/74 with Robin Andrews

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Voting
Total votes cast 197
hard V0 of 73
V0 of 73
easy V1 of 73
hard IV6 of 73
IV43 of 73
easy IV11 of 73
hard III12 of 73
III0 of 73
easy III0 of 73
hard 50 of 67
50 of 67
easy 54 of 67
hard 43 of 67
448 of 67
easy 48 of 67
hard 34 of 67
30 of 67
easy 30 of 67
3 Stars4 of 57
2 Stars24 of 57
1 Star27 of 57
0 Stars2 of 57
Bag of .....0 of 57
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed24 of 455 (5.3%)
Lead153 of 455 (33.6%)
Followed132 of 455 (29.0%)
Toproped2 of 455 (0.4%)
Alt Leads93 of 455 (20.4%)
Unknown51 of 455 (11.2%)

'Climbed'220 of 455 (48.4%)
clean O/S188 of 455 (41.3%)
clean β4 of 455 (0.9%)
clean rpt16 of 455 (3.5%)
clean RP1 of 455 (0.2%)
dogged13 of 455 (2.9%)
dnf12 of 455 (2.6%)
Unknown1 of 455 (0.2%)