35m. Climbs through the bulging black wall with interest and difficulty to gain an immaculate slab above which will be thoroughly enjoyed by slab lovers (and will probably spit you off if you don't!) Once an abandoned project now a well bolted sport route with 16 bolts and a lower off. 70 metre ropes required to lower off, alternatively belay at the top and walk off. Start to the right of the Shouting Stage E5 6a.

Ian Lloyd-Jones and Alun Hughes 04/Sep/2012

Ticklists: Suggested routes stripes should do....


ClimberDateStyle
Parker550 30/Jul Lead O/S
Daz8477 30/Jul Lead dog

Damn it,1 silly slip on the slab cost me the Onsight!, Very good route **

Glyn 25/Jul Lead O/S

Awesome!

with Amy
jonleighton 23/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/15 Lead dog
Coel Hellier 03/Sep/15 Lead
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead dnf
geoff b 04/Jul/15 Lead

This was a cracking long lead, finishing in some stiff moves up the slab at the top: it took me a while to work out exactly where I needed to go.

partz 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 03/May/15 Lead RP

The top slab isn't too bad, but there's an odd section at about half height without anything positive. The drag is bad on the top section, no complaints about the route, but putting a bolt belay on the big ledge before the top slab might reduce this issue without really affecting the grade.

Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Mattlamb90 02/Jul/14 Lead dog

Failed at the crux, put little effort into finishing it

with Ryan
Rob Pitt ?/Jul/14 Lead β
with Dave Evans
Hidden 05/Jun/14 -
Hidden 05/Jun/14 Lead
dswansonlow 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic route. I enjoyed this sooo much!!

shed_hed 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Absolutely fantastic route and well worth a trip to seek out! Very tricky to work out - spent a long time on my toes trying to work out the sequences on the final slab especially, although the bottom section was very technical - don't expect to pull on anything for most of the climb. Well bolted but clipping on the slab up high felt precarious when trying to haul the weight of the rope up balancing on tiny edges!

Hidden 27/Apr/14 Lead RP
LRob 13/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Probably warrants 7a just about. Great fun climbing.

wolf.leeb 27/Sep/13 Lead O/S

V.good.. 6c+ seems fair perhaps 7a for short?

with Alexis
harold walmsley 23/Sep/13 Lead RP

Feet slipped on one of the easier parts of the slab due to lack of concentration. Hands stayed on but rope just came taut, not sure if it made any difference to me staying on or not. Onlookers gave me the redpoint so I'll take it.

with Colin Struthers
agp 23/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Excellent

nige 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
harold walmsley 29/Aug/13 TR

Clean first go onTR after failing to lead onsight. Tremendous route

with Mark Hounslea
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Dan724 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Best route of the crag. Probably more like 6c+ but maybe 7a due to its length? It is possible to lower-off with a 60m rope as you can access a ledge a couple of metres up, untie, then scramble down easy terrain. However, be careful, and remember to tie a knot in the belayer's end of the rope.

Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
ian Ll-J 04/Sep/12 Lead RP

First Ascent!

zero six ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Delightful upper slab, decent rambling below. Not 3 stars but good.

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Matthew Ferrier, Hidden, Lenny, morgan91, Hidden, Hidden, Ropeboy
Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set