Fluted Buttress Direct** IV 4
[Fluted Buttress Direct, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter.

Photo: Fluted Buttress Direct © newcyjohn
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 192 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Climbed under lots of powder. Def V,5.
Col Kingshott - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/15

led P2 and top section.
Matt Harmon - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/15 with Alex McCann

Led 1st and 3rd pitches.
amccann - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/15 with Matt H

Really fun route. soloed first pitch and then roped up below the first chimney. then did 5 pitches (top 3 short due to ropedrag). great climbing and alot of powder on the second half. (although didn't think this made it much harder than it would have been without it, like the guidebook says, definitely still only IV). really nice climbing though, and great leads by shaun on his first grade IV, despite the barndoor! :p
Teappleby - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Shaun Humphreys

First Grade IV ace climbing all the way up! bit powdery near the top. Not sure how i didn't fall out of the top of the mini chimney on the 3rd pitch when my axes ripped and barndoored. Proprerly sick day out tho! overly psyched for winter after this!!
shaunhumphreys - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Tom A

chris smith - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/15

Kayan - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/15 with Dan Abbatt

danJBA - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/15 with James Hoar

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/15

Nick Wallis - 2015 with BMC international meet

Hidden - 2015

plain kitten - 2015

GordonAinslie - AltLd - 2015

RocKalina - 29/Dec/14 with climberandy

First winter climb :)
Manix - 2nd O/S - 28/Dec/14 with Robert Taylor

Roberttaylor - Lead O/S - 28/Dec/14

gripped01 - AltLd - 28/Dec/14 with Ade Mellor, Dan Graves

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Dec/14

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Dec/14

Moving together
Harry Holmes - AltLd - 27/Dec/14 with Anna Wells

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Dec/14

Ally Baba - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/14 with Gav Swinton

alasdair19 - Dec/14

Hidden - 30/Mar/14

Alpine conditions, grade II/III today, good neve for most of route. Great fun.
Nemo9 - AltLd - 12/Mar/14 with Jim

kelliroberts3 - AltLd - 16/Jan/14 with Peter Rigby

Pete Rigby - AltLd - 16/Jan/14 with Kelli Roberts

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jan/14

Really good in the gullys, and an interesting amount on powder above them.
arandall - 2nd O/S - 14/Jan/14 with Joe Coxson, remus knowles

Best climb for our week in Jan. Seconded all the pitches. Loose, deep snow in parts, but really good climbing in the Gully. Interesting awkward step on loose snow about halfway up third pich which was fun; everyone doing it a different way.
JoeCoxson - 2nd O/S - 14/Jan/14 with Remus, Alex Randall

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jan/14

Hidden - 2014

Tim Rodgers - AltLd - 29/Dec/13 with Matt Greenwood

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Mar/13

Done the first two pitches with some nice ice on second pitch, then finished up wavelenth. Part of a weekend being guided by Kevin.
colin fagan - 2nd - 03/Mar/13

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Feb/13

Great route. The ice throughout is quite thin and bullet hard in places, but the climbing itself was very good.
Ken Applegate - Lead - 26/Feb/13 with Sue, Phil

sj87 - 2nd - 26/Feb/13

michael83 - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Mark Mosgrove

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Feb/13

Led first and third pitches. Third is a beaut.
tsl42 - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Liam Brown

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Feb/13

Charlie Zephyr Booth - Lead O/S - Feb/13 with michael kirby

robgixer - AltLd - Feb/13

Thin ice on bottom pitch
luke321 - AltLd - 12/Dec/12 with Tom Jagger

A thin ribbon of thin ice at the back of the lower chimney in its steepest section proved pretty helpful. Hard and sustained in these conditions and a great climb for it!
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/12 with Harry

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Dec/12

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Dec/12

Hard condition. Led 1, 3 and 5.
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 05/Nov/12 with Calum

pmurdy - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/12 with john gallant

Did the last two pitches of this in the dark. very lean and some loose blocks. Great climbing, but got back to the bus at about 10pm. well done Anna for getting up this! tech 5 maybe? in those conditions
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/12 with Jake Young, Anna

Jake Young - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/12 with Ben, Anna

GaryK - AltLd - 24/Jan/12 with Karlis Berdarlis

Finished up wavelength.
R0bbie - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/12 with Taba

Guy Wilson - Jan/12 with Jon Sanders

pete87abs - AltLd O/S - Jan/12 with Rosie Crossley, rob

adie84 - 2012

Callum Anderson - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Dec/11

First mountain route and fiery introduction to winter climbing! Awesome!
peter.herd - 2nd - 10/Dec/11 with Marcus Brown, Rory Brown

Excellent route, sustained interest. Might have ended up on the top pitch of Wavelength, but whatever we did, it was as hard as the previous lower pitches.
George Ormerod - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Mark

myoung - AltLd - 19/Mar/11

First IV mixed route. Connor lead the 1st proper pitch to see if it would go as we were not sure of condition. The only consistent thing about the ice is its lack of quantity and quality. I led the second pitch as we both reckoned it looked easier, it was not as it turned out to be the crux pitch. A scary and tenuous lead mainly on hooks; but nevertheless, a lead that I won't forget - very happy that I managed to get up it without falling, especially after a minor slip mid pitch. There's plenty of gear to be had but we did smash a lot of the ice out so probably not recommendable in its current state. An amazing day out, the best winter day out I've ever had probably!
andrew sandercock - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/11 with Connor Cussell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead - 26/Feb/11

J1PEF - 29/Jan/11

freudy_love - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/11 with Davy Moy

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jan/11

R0bbie - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/11 with Taba

jfmchivall - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/11 with Mark Gorin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/11

inuklm - AltLd O/S - 06/Jan/11 with Jonny Moodie

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jan/11

allyrocke - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/11 with Robbie

rcammack - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/11 with Alistair Rocke

Awesome, mucho ice made it nice to climb but bold in places as gear was hard to locate. I've wanted to climb this for so long and it lived up to my expectations, 4 amazing verifying pitches and 2 filler pitches at the beginning and end.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/11 with Mark Jarvie

Intresting throughout :-)
markjarvie - 02/Jan/11 with andymain

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

newtonmore - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

David Sherratt - Lead O/S - 2011

Clay C - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/10 with Harry A

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/10

Dustin - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/10 with Pat Ingram

Hidden - Lead - 02/Apr/10

Really enjoyable - but at my limit for now with B1 Boots and Walking Crampons.
mark v - 2nd - 21/Mar/10 with Adam Hughes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Mar/10

lachlan - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/10 with daniel sutherland

Days don't get better. perfect condition, perfect wether. Awesome
Daniel Sutherland - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/10 with Lachlan Macleod

Somehow convinced myself this was the runnel! Was just attracted by the soaring chimney line through the buttress. Wasn't much ice and had grade II head on so soon backed off. Unfinished business, I will be back.
freemanTom - Lead dnf - 23/Feb/10 with Paul Davies

Adam1973 - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Alex

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10

davefount - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Bl@ckhawkjac

ewen - Lead - 20/Feb/10 with james swann, clare-dev

clare-deV - 2nd - 20/Feb/10 with swann, ewen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/10

Thefly - AltLd - 16/Feb/10 with Nick Hocking, andy smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/10

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/10 with Zac Poulton

lemon - 04/Feb/10 with Lismore

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/10

el cholo - 2nd O/S - 24/Jan/10 with jamestheyip

Did with power snow cover. Very hard to protect. Would have been a better climb when it's drier. Still pretty good route.
jamestheyip - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/10 with Alejandro Garcia

bridget143 - 2nd O/S - 18/Jan/10 with Andy Nisbet

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Jan/10

mikelaing - 2nd - Jan/10 with Ian Whitehead

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

Excellent route. Hard to protect today.
Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 21/Dec/09 with Gus MacPherson

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Dec/09

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/09 with Dan Wicks

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/09

Interesting experience, pretty cold and lots of spindrift but lots of good ice to climb, not much gear (no ice screws ... doh)
robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 19/Dec/09 with Tom

sweet. took a while but we got there in the end. cold day
tomdude - AltLd - 19/Dec/09 with rob

Greg Boswell - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/09 with Peter Boswell, James Dunn

t_stork - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/09 with Marcus Brown, Steve Walls

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Dec/09

Alco-nomic - AltLd - Dec/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/09

bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/09 with Bart

morsy - AltLd - 15/Feb/09 with gerhard mors

good route. lots of verglas on pitch 1 and 2 made climbing interesting and gear placements poor.
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/09 with john

goingupintheworld - 2nd - 01/Feb/09 with Jonnie

jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/09 with Rich

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Feb/09

k2scott - 2009

cracking route. First garde IV
Sandy Simpson - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/08 with brian duthie

Fun climb, first pitch is the tricky one, which was fairly mixed today with some ice and neve...nice day on the hill....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/08 with Emily

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Dec/08

BallsOfSteel - AltLd O/S - 10/Dec/08 with IainMunro

perfect turf.
French Erick - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/08 with Simon Christie

Captain Solo - AltLd - 01/Mar/08 with Ewan

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - Mar/08 with Jones

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/08

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's

Alco-nomic - AltLd - 2008

wee hippy - Lead - 2008 with john jones

Phill_ Thompson - AltLd - 2008 with Lucy Prins

decs - AltLd - 11/Dec/07 with Sam Hawkins

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Dec/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Nov/07

nice route
dave_tomlin - 2nd - 31/Mar/07 with Tom Evans

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/07

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Mar/07

furry - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/07 with Paul W

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/07

Southern Mark Smith - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Yourlead - AltLd - 18/Dec/06 with Graham Penny

Jim Haydock - 2nd - 10/Mar/06 with G. Ettle & Owen Samuels

oor wullie - Feb/06 with Risto kalampa

francis blunt - Lead - Jan/06 with Joe Williams

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2005

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/04

Jamie Simpson - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Andy Munro

Hidden - Lead - 17/Mar/03

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Feb/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/03

Climbed with Katherine, 14 weeks pregnant.
john irving - 2003

dangates - 2003 with Kirk Watson

zero six - AltLd O/S - 2003

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Feb/01

NeilGriffiths - 28/Dec/00 with Adrian Pedley, Paul Tucker

innes - 2000

Billg - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/98 with Paul Guttridge

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Mar/97

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Dec/96

nickdonohue - AltLd - 17/Mar/96 with Caley Latham

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Mar/96

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/96 with Dave Owen

jlury - 2nd - Mar/95 with Paul Bale, Jon Hart

Andy Say - Lead - 17/Feb/95

Hidden - AltLd - 1993

Hidden - AltLd - 1993

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/91

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/91

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jan/90

Yourlead - AltLd - 03/Dec/89 with Doug Rennie

Hidden - Solo O/S - Mar/89

Steve Crowe - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/86 with Arthur Collins, Dave Monteith

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 18/Jan/86 with Grahame Nicoll

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Nath93, johnkeith, Stuart Hurworth, fifth, Zippy1999, iksander, joeydurkin, MrRiley, Ian Jones, PanzerHanzler, melvin, lawrenceK, cashley, jazzyjackson

Total votes cast 135
hard V0 of 49
V2 of 49
easy V3 of 49
hard IV30 of 49
IV13 of 49
easy IV1 of 49
hard III0 of 49
III0 of 49
easy III0 of 49
hard 50 of 45
52 of 45
easy 530 of 45
hard 48 of 45
45 of 45
easy 40 of 45
hard 30 of 45
30 of 45
easy 30 of 45
3 Stars30 of 41
2 Stars10 of 41
1 Star1 of 41
0 Stars0 of 41
Bag of .....0 of 41
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S