UKC

Restricted Access

Reported loose rock on Jefferson Slab

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Last Butt One Level:

Choughs are now in the broken area to the left of Uluru Magic and right of Rejoice. There is no restriction on climbing at present but please avoid this area and keep noise to a minimum. Due to an increase in roosting birds, please avoid climbing during dusk (1hour before sunset). 

Level 3:

A new pair of choughs are nesting on the left-hand side of this level. Please avoid all routes to the left of Cubism Groove

20m.

Rockfax Description
A pleasant route with a move left into the main groove above the lower overlaps. Lots of bolts and a good line. Care is needed when stripping the route to avoid a huge pendulum. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the first bolt of Big A55 Arête, move out left to mount the roof via a jug, then continue left into the corner. Follow the corner on good holds to the lower-off of Big A55 Arête.

FA. Colin and Sue Goodey Sep/2012.

Feedback

User Date Notes
marlpit 10 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The pendulum risk is quite severe. For the timid second stripping on the way up, lower off down Agent Orange which uses the same lower off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The pendulum risk is quite severe. For the timid second stripping on the way up, lower off down Agent Orange which uses the same lower off.
ed_runnalls 3 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: If the person stripping the route just seconds it there’s no pendulum risk or need to use the additional anchor
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If the person stripping the route just seconds it there’s no pendulum risk or need to use the additional anchor

Logged Ascents

241 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Penmaenbach Quarry

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 11 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Loading Notifications...