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Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 18/Nov AltLd O/S
Brian Pollock 18/Nov AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. Excellent short route with interesting climbing and overhead gear where you need it.

jon22 27/Feb Lead
masa-alpin 28/Jan 2nd β

Very windy day (100mph gust recorded reportedly). Obu lead both the pitches with a fine effort, taking 6 hours ish (during the BMC Intl Winter Meet). Great little route! Abed back down.

with R Obu
Craig Holden 16/Jan Lead O/S
with Alex Toomey, Harry Newmark
HarryNewmark 16/Jan 2nd
with Craig Holden, Alex Toomey
alex toomey 16/Jan 2nd O/S
D.Russell 10/Jan AltLd O/S
with Adam
Hidden 10/Jan AltLd O/S
MSchobitz 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Been keen to get back on this, ever since having bailed after P1 last season due to horrible weather. Tom solidly led P1, and I then led the crux chimney. The 'inch by inch struggle' was real. Never been so exhausted from 12 meters of climbing. Fully body pump. Worked my way all the way up into the roof and then traversed out right to the belay on some steinpulls. I would say Tom did well on second, but he got my purple cam stuck, so I he really didn't ;) Also nice to see my ab-tat from last year still in place!

Teappleby 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 1, which was probably good IV 5, in its own right. Really nice corner climbing that just keeps on giving. Then Micki led he crux. An amazing lead, but I will admit to spending the first half of the pitch terrified he was going to come off and swing into me crampon first! The final moves were fun to second as they were thin smearing and fully committed to a stein pull and moving round it to the final good hook. All facing a huge swing out beyond the belay! Full body shakes at the top. Amazing route!

Hidden 21/Nov/15 -
Scotsken 27/Feb/15 2nd O/S

Stonking lead by Jamie. Full body pump in the chimney...

MSchobitz 22/Feb/15 AltLd dnf

I led up to the real chimney. Felt about IV 4/5. Feeling like we were being shat on by a snowman did not help the low psyche levels. Abbed-off from that belay and got blown out of the coire.

with Mike Watson
Kayan 27/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Strenuous with the outrageous bridging, great fun for a quick route.

danJBA 27/Jan/15 2nd O/S
jamieevans ?/Jan/15 Lead
plain kitten ??/2015 -
MrRiley 23/Mar/14 AltLd dnf

Climbed to the start of the hard climbing in some of the worst spindrift conditions I've ever been in. Retreated from there, never been colder!

with Richard Hines, Debbie Lee
Debbie Lee 23/Mar/14 AltLd

Backed off.

Shaw Brown 27/Feb/14 AltLd

Great fun :-)

with Loz
alexmcmillan 22/Feb/14 2nd O/S
with Miles Gould, Harry Holmes
Harry Holmes 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Buried!

with Miles Gould, Alex McMillan
ladislav 22/Feb/14 2nd dog

My first grade V!

tjmillen 18/Jan/14 2nd
with Charlie
Charlie Zephyr Booth 18/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with tim millen
simon kimber 17/Jan/14 2nd
The old James turnbull 17/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with simon kimber
R0bbie 04/Jan/14 Lead dog

I took a wee fall from the crux, but after a rest managed to pull through. Felt pretty desperate!

with Taba
Hidden ??/2014 -
stuart34 06/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

gooood fun

with gary k
GaryK 06/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

An excellent route. The initial pitch was harder than expected, maybe it banks out more later in the season.

with Stuart Inchley
annep 31/Mar/13 2nd

Best day climbing ever! With Harry.

jonnie3430 01/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Jacob did the second (spicy,) I did the first. A great route, interesting bottom to top.

with Jacob
Hidden ?/Feb/13 AltLd
Adam Booth 26/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Amazing route! Stiff for a V, I thought (way harder than savage slit for instance) and sustained. I agree with tech 7. Covered in unconsolidated powder, suppose it might have been easier with a bit of neve.

gowla 26/Jan/13 2nd
with adam booth
Hidden 23/Jan/13 AltLd
tim newton 15/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jan/13 AltLd
Brucemacrosson ?/Jan/13 2nd
with Gwylim Satchell
mshorter 16/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
with ry
Hidden 02/Dec/12 Lead dnf
guy757 04/Nov/12 -
Hidden 04/Nov/12 2nd
Hidden 03/Nov/12 AltLd
Hidden 03/Nov/12 AltLd
Malcolm Bass ?/Nov/12 AltLd dog

Fell off the crux this time.

with Guy Buckingham, Adrian Mellor
Hidden ?/Mar/12 AltLd
Tdavy01 18/Feb/12 Lead
James S 22/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

led the crux pitch, my first at tech 7! really fun climbing, perfect climb to practise your steinpulls!

with sam
Hidden 21/Jan/12 2nd
Tom Livingstone 01/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Crux pitch

Ri ??/2012 -
with mike
Hidden 10/Dec/11 Lead
James Thacker 30/Nov/11 Lead
jamestheyip 20/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Looks very dry from the bottom but there are enough good neve for ledges and the snow channel on second pitch. The guide book's description on the chimney bridging - struggle inch by inch - is very true! Best stretch the first pitch a bit further and climb beyond the first flake, leaving more gear for the chimney pitch and you can also enjoy watching your partner suffering at the awkward bridging!

with Alejandro Garcia
el cholo 20/Mar/11 AltLd
robertmichaeladams 28/Feb/11 AltLd
with Dom
davesykes 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Guided party in front struggled somewhat and belayer had to be relieved on stance. Stan cruised crux.

with Stan
geoff.comley 26/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

well well well! Thin first couple of moves getting established on the wall, reasonable into the main groove. Found it tricky getting from the back and foot position onto the slab (might of went to high?). Hard 7 imo.

Alco-nomic 26/Jan/11 AltLd

From chimney corner, gain the slab from below the peg on it, a couple of tricky steps right of it and then straight up. Can be done in one 50m pitch.

with Geoff
jamestheyip 08/Jan/11 AltLd dnf

Started a few meters on the second chimney pitch. All cracks fully rimed up making gear finding very difficult. Downclimbed and bailed off.

with Ben Taylor
inuklm 07/Jan/11 AltLd dog
with Robin Jones
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
Hidden 17/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Greg Boswell 10/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with Damien
chapmand 15/Dec/08 AltLd
with Dave Morse, Pete Rhodes
Peter Rhodes 13/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

WOW!

with Dave Chapman, Dave Morse
david morse 13/Dec/08 AltLd
with Bombsquad
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
sgl 09/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with chad
Chad123 09/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Awesome route - crazy chimneying leads to a satisfying thin slab move to finish...

with Sam
hwackerhage 09/Mar/08 Lead
with Adam
frecro 05/Mar/08 2nd
with alex moran
breithorn4164 06/Jan/08 AltLd dnf

Completed 1st pitch in terrible conditions, unconsolidated snow abbed off

with Jackson
French Erick 03/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

great route for wild days, although spin drifts can be perpetual (on a bad day!)

with Andy Sharpe
Neil Adams 06/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 06/Mar/07 2nd

Lowered off from crux, then Neil dispatched it. Must remember to eat and drink....

with neil adams
akhughes ?/Nov/05 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Mar/05 Lead

Happy hooking! Meaning to take a rest day on the International meet (after many days climbing) but couldn't resist getting out again!

whispering nic 20/Jan/05 AltLd O/S
with Tweedley
charlesmfrench 12/Dec/02 Lead O/S
with Emily Hol
Yourlead 16/Feb/02 2nd
with Graham Penny
Dave Kerr 03/Feb/02 AltLd
with Steve Wells
frost ?/Jan/01 Lead
with J Hubbard
Malcolm Bass ?/Nov/00 AltLd O/S

After camping by Loch Avon and doing Crevasse Route and Sticil face many years ago. The given year is a guess.

with Simon Yearsley
Dave Almond ?/Mar/00 Lead O/S
with Mark Thomas
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
pingora 18/Mar/96 AltLd O/S
with Shaun R
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
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Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 31
High 8
Mid 8
Low 8
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set