24/11/2013: CAUTION: there is a large loose block the size of a small microwave about 2m below the top out on the right wall. It's in a recess of the right wall so be very careful not to hook it. It's an obvious foot placement when moving up so don't stand on it either! it's very wobbly!

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
rob16 18/Feb 2nd
with Matt Brook
malx 28/Jan AltLd O/S
mountain musher ??/2016 -
MSchobitz 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Led the easy P1 and an extended 40m P3, after Tom belayed about 10m below the hanging corner belay. Took 2.5hrs on the last pitch, sorry Tom!, and ran out of quickdraws. Felt pretty hard (definitely not the same grade as Savage Slit or Deep Throat) and a bit of neve in the back corner would've made things much easier! Good route to get to grips with torquing! Solid lead by Tom as well on the belly-flop start to P2!

Teappleby 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Great route, led pitch 2 which as pretty straight forward apart from a 4-5 meter vertical wall just after the belay which needed some pretty nice laybacking with torques and then some slopey ledge flopping! Ended belated were I could get a good peg, which left Micki with a monster 40-45m pitch, all of which mainly 6 with the odd bit of 5. Lovely climbing, though alot easier later in the season I assume with some neve. So much harder than savage slit in today's conditions (like at least a whole grade!)

geoff b 17/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

A brilliant route. Sustained but well protected climbing with many (6?!) in situ pieces of gear. P1 isn't easy but it is a good warm up for the main event. We'd bailed off the belay the previous day amidst spindrift hell & gale force winds. Nice to get back & climb it.

with Dr. Nick
kegless 12/Feb/15 2nd
with John McCuan
Colin Dyer 03/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

With Dave Kerr. Great route but strenuous.

benclimbing 02/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Great early season conditions. Some sketchy moments so possibly at the upper end of the V,6 grade

Dave Latimer 02/Jan/15 2nd
plain kitten ??/2015 -
tim20 ??/2015 -
Hidden 22/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
The Grist 02/Mar/14 Lead O/S

It felt about grade 5 today. Probably easy 5. Felt steady but run out. Definitely in easy condition and not a mixed route today. But still very enjoyable.

with Tom Doldon
Ewan Russell 25/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Thought it was V 5 today. I assume the normal crux was banked out. Ice running the length of the pitch. Took stubbys. Odd bit of rock gear where it mattered. Felt bold overall.

with gwen
wi11 24/Feb/14 2nd β

Abbed in for last pitch. Massively banked out not like last time I was on it, Grade III at the minute? Easier than the Seam on the same day. Not much gear to be had but v easy to climb

with Dave R, Mark C
JRae 07/Feb/14 AltLd

Pretty knackering condition, loads of just off vertical unconsolidated snow at the top.

benkelsey 07/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Lead Middle Pitch. massively banked out involving a lot of digging for gear -> fair runouts. top of the pitch was steep perfect neve for 7m to the belay, ace! Good lead from Jonny with a lot of powder and a massive cornice. topped out about 7pm only for Paul to twist his ankle on the walk out meaning back to the car by 11 and the end of his trip :/ so much for a rest day!

pmurdy 07/Feb/14 2nd
with Ben K, Jonny Reay
Dave Almond 28/Jan/14 2nd

BMC International Meet

with Michal Sabovcik
tjmillen 25/Jan/14 AltLd
with Jeff
Hidden 04/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
frost ?/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
alasdair19 ??/2014 -
Smith42 26/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
with Lindsay Yule
Hidden 21/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
Timothy Miller 21/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
with Scott G
wi11 17/Dec/13 AltLd dnf

Ran out of quickdraws

with Brian
michael83 24/Nov/13 AltLd RP

came off the crux unexpectedly and landed back at the belay due to poor feet/hook choice. Lead the full pitch clean after (yoyo'd i think the term is). long and strenuous!

Hidden 24/Nov/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
D.Russell 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with Steve, Adam
Andy Moles 26/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Clare
andyinglis 01/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams 01/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
wheelsucker ??/2013 -
Hidden 29/Dec/12 2nd
Tom Livingstone 01/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Led main pitch

geoff.comley 12/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Absolutely loved this route, first wall is cool. First corner up to the belay was solid, thin for feet and only a couple of helpful hooks. Cracks full of ice so a bit of hunting for the gear. Nearly off at the overhang due to an axe ripping but saved it...... just :) Ace (hard v 6 when rimed up)

Hidden 06/Feb/11 AltLd
simondunf 06/Feb/11 Lead O/S

v iced, couldn't get any pro for corner

with caspar
andybuckley 30/Jan/11 AltLd

Avoided the direct start via easy ledges to the left. Belay pretty tenuous below the main corner on one nut. Pretty iced up -- couldn't use the crack for either torquing or placements, hence some tenuous skating up hoar frost on the walls. Steve led it... way too hard for me: it felt sketchy and hard even on second!

with Steve Fortune
Hidden 30/Jan/11 2nd
inuklm 08/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
jonnybull ?/Jan/11 AltLd dog

Epic, epic lead up the main corner. I was completely drained afterwards. There was so much hoar frost that no rock was visible. I spent most of the 3 hours(!) cleaning the rock looking for protection. At least in this condition there were secure(ish) crampon placements. Took a small fall about halfway. Massive thanks to Kunal for his patience!

with Kunal
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
KeithW 22/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1. Lots of snow, little ice as yet.

with Nathan White, Kev
robertmichaeladams 21/Nov/10 AltLd dnf

spat off and psyched out with a bruised ass, going was good until that point though

with Lawrence
wence 21/Nov/10 2nd dnf
with Rob
Hidden 16/Nov/10 Lead
Ian Jones 16/Nov/10 2nd O/S

As the guidebook says, the turf is disappearing and it is getting harder. No ice around so definitely hard V1, maybe technically VII. A grade and a half harder than Savage Slit. Hard and very sustained with some great runners. A great lead by Dan.

MonkeyDawson 21/Mar/10 Lead

Amazing route. Not the best quality ice on the face but crack was filled nicely.

with Bob Foster
Hidden 21/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
MouseHunter ??/2010 -
Lone Rider ??/2010 AltLd

Fell of crux and spiked James in the thigh. Got back on and cruised it.

centurion05 ??/2010 Lead O/S

I thought it was pretty desperate, not a lot of ice, protection wasn't great. Very committing and scary.

with Dan Carroll, Stu Harth
Greg Boswell 14/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
with Euan Whittaker, James Dunn
HIGHTOWER 07/Mar/09 2nd
with Ben Thynne, Tim
Hidden 20/Feb/09 2nd
Ed Booth 20/Feb/09 Lead
timmy-ts ??/2009 Lead

Ben, sorry mate, you got a little chilly.

with Ben T
windy100 ??/2009 -
markjarvie ??/2009 -
with C-Man
hwackerhage 30/Nov/08 -
with Brian
Smelly Fox 15/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
s kennedy 15/Mar/08 2nd
with tris fox, mark mosgrove
sgl 09/Mar/08 AltLd
with chad
Chad123 09/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

It's tough for V,6 but it ain't VI! Fun corner route with some quite tricky moves to keep you entertained...

with Sam
Spade 17/Dec/06 AltLd

Very good

with Dave Wragg
dangates ?/Dec/04 AltLd
with Alistair Buchanan
nickdonohue ?/Mar/02 Lead

Relatively easy when I did it with a sliver of just consolidated enough snow-ice in the corner

with Mark McCarthy
Hidden ?/Feb/01 AltLd
Paul Figg 14/Jan/01 -
with Rachel Antill
brockers ?/Feb/00 2nd
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
pingora 14/Nov/93 AltLd rpt
with Chris M, Blaggers
pingora 08/Mar/93 AltLd O/S
with Shaun R
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
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Voting
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 29
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set