Belhaven*** VI 6
[cruising , 2 kb]24/11/2013: CAUTION: there is a large loose block the size of a small microwave about 2m below the top out on the right wall. It's in a recess of the right wall so be very careful not to hook it. It's an obvious foot placement when moving up so don't stand on it either! it's very wobbly!

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs.

Photo: cruising © mulletcocktail2000
View all 12 photos or

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 60 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

It felt about grade 5 today. Probably easy 5. Felt steady but run out. Definitely in easy condition and not a mixed route today. But still very enjoyable.
The Grist - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/14 with Tom Doldon

Thought it was V 5 today. I assume the normal crux was banked out. Ice running the length of the pitch. Took stubbys. Odd bit of rock gear where it mattered. Felt bold overall.
Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/14 with gwen

Abbed in for last pitch. Massively banked out not like last time I was on it, Grade III at the minute? Easier than the Seam on the same day. Not much gear to be had but v easy to climb
wi11 - 2nd β - 24/Feb/14 with Dave R, Mark C

Pretty knackering condition, loads of just off vertical unconsolidated snow at the top.
JRae - AltLd - 07/Feb/14 with Ben Kelsey, Paul M

Lead Middle Pitch. massively banked out involving a lot of digging for gear -> fair runouts. top of the pitch was steep perfect neve for 7m to the belay, ace! Good lead from Jonny with a lot of powder and a massive cornice. topped out about 7pm only for Paul to twist his ankle on the walk out meaning back to the car by 11 and the end of his trip :/ so much for a rest day!
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/14 with Paul Murdy, JRae

pmurdy - 2nd - 07/Feb/14 with Ben K, Jonny Reay

BMC International Meet
Dave Almond - 2nd - 28/Jan/14 with Michal Sabovcik

tjmillen - AltLd - 25/Jan/14 with Jeff

I lead the first pitch. Great route but limited protection due to significant verglass in cracks.
scottbecker - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/14 with Tom Jumar

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/13

Timothy Miller - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/13 with Scott G

Ran out of quickdraws
wi11 - AltLd dnf - 17/Dec/13 with Brian

came off the crux unexpectedly and landed back at the belay due to poor feet/hook choice. Lead the full pitch clean after (yoyo'd i think the term is). long and strenuous!
michael83 - AltLd RP - 24/Nov/13 with Mark Mosgrove

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/Nov/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/13

Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/13 with Clare

andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/13 with Neil Adams

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/13 with Andy Inglis

wheelsucker - 2013

Rich God 3 - 2nd - 29/Dec/12 with Mike B, Donald

Led main pitch
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/12 with Tom Ripley

Absolutely loved this route, first wall is cool. First corner up to the belay was solid, thin for feet and only a couple of helpful hooks. Cracks full of ice so a bit of hunting for the gear. Nearly off at the overhang due to an axe ripping but saved it...... just :) Ace (hard v 6 when rimed up)
geoff.comley - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/11 with Pat Ingram

Hidden - AltLd dog - 06/Feb/11

v iced, couldn't get any pro for corner
simondunf - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/11 with caspar

Avoided the direct start via easy ledges to the left. Belay pretty tenuous below the main corner on one nut. Pretty iced up -- couldn't use the crack for either torquing or placements, hence some tenuous skating up hoar frost on the walls. Steve led it... way too hard for me: it felt sketchy and hard even on second!
andybuckley - AltLd - 30/Jan/11 with Steve Fortune

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jan/11

inuklm - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/11 with Jonny Bull

Epic, epic lead up the main corner. I was completely drained afterwards. There was so much hoar frost that no rock was visible. I spent most of the 3 hours(!) cleaning the rock looking for protection. At least in this condition there were secure(ish) crampon placements. Took a small fall about halfway. Massive thanks to Kunal for his patience!
jonnybull - AltLd dog - Jan/11 with Kunal

Hidden - 2011

newtonmore - 2011

Led pitch 1. Lots of snow, little ice as yet.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 22/Nov/10 with Nathan White, Kev

spat off and psyched out with a bruised ass, going was good until that point though
robertmichaeladams - AltLd dnf - 21/Nov/10 with Lawrence

wence - 2nd dnf - 21/Nov/10 with Rob

Hidden - Lead - 16/Nov/10

As the guidebook says, the turf is disappearing and it is getting harder. No ice around so definitely hard V1, maybe technically VII. A grade and a half harder than Savage Slit. Hard and very sustained with some great runners. A great lead by Dan.
Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - 16/Nov/10 with Dan Moore

Amazing route. Not the best quality ice on the face but crack was filled nicely.
MonkeyDawson - Lead - 21/Mar/10 with Bob Foster

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/10

MouseHunter - 2010

Fell of crux and spiked James in the thigh. Got back on and cruised it.
Lone Rider - AltLd - 2010 with James Edwards

Greg Boswell - AltLd O/S - 14/Dec/09 with Euan Whittaker, James Dunn

HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 07/Mar/09 with Ben Thynne, Tim

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Feb/09

Ed Booth - Lead - 20/Feb/09 with Tim Evans

Ben, sorry mate, you got a little chilly.
timmy-ts - Lead - 2009 with Ben T

windy100 - 2009

markjarvie - 2009 with C-Man

hwackerhage - 30/Nov/08 with Brian

Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/08 with Stuart Kennedy, Mark Mosgrove

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/08

s kennedy - 2nd - 15/Mar/08 with tris fox, mark mosgrove

sgl - AltLd - 09/Mar/08 with chad

It's tough for V,6 but it ain't VI! Fun corner route with some quite tricky moves to keep you entertained...
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/08 with Sam

Very good
Spade - AltLd - 17/Dec/06 with Dave Wragg

dangates - AltLd - Dec/04 with Alistair Buchanan

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/01

Hidden - 2nd - Feb/00

graeme gatherer - 2000

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dextra, Dream-Ice, JonmapDL, Mr Wild, drunkpossum, michael83, Dustin, Ian Jones, andybuckley, joeydurkin, vincentvega, dunx55

Voting
Total votes cast 69
hard VII0 of 24
VII0 of 24
easy VII0 of 24
hard VI1 of 24
VI2 of 24
easy VI4 of 24
hard V17 of 24
V0 of 24
easy V0 of 24
hard 70 of 24
70 of 24
easy 71 of 24
hard 61 of 24
618 of 24
easy 63 of 24
hard 51 of 24
50 of 24
easy 50 of 24
3 Stars5 of 21
2 Stars14 of 21
1 Star2 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf