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Jacobs Ladder* HVS 5a

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[Jacobs Ladder, The obvious stepped structure centre frame. , 3 kb]82m, 3 pitches. This climb was originally recorded as being in Foillanpriosun some 1.6km to the East due to an idiosyncrasy in the old half inch map of the region. It remained 'lost' for over 55 years until found by Ronan O Keeffe and Sean Martin of WITMC in Sept 2012. Start at the obvious stepped ladder feature one third of the way down the crag from the main waterfall. The start is from a boulder detached from the main crag and is immediately to the right of a steep grass gully. Despite topping out into a faceful of gorse (a typical Comeragh greeting) the first pitch is the cleanest and most enjoyable. The 'much harder peg crux' in the guide being a solid HVS 5a exit on protruding minuscule conglomerate clasts. 1. 25m Launch off the detached boulder on to the climb proper, trending left, then back toward the center of the face, before exiting to the right, avoiding the overhangs. Top out into gorse, belay from rear wall from a capacious ledge. HS 4b 2. 35m Up the steep wall and move right toward an obvious and large V chimney. Exit this feature and trend left up a mix of rock and grass to a large tiered sandstone section. Belay here. HS 4b 3. 22m Move up a series of horizontal cracks for a few feet before stretching right for a large out of reach jug. Move left from here and left again at the wall in front, climb vertically up the vegetated crack before surmounting some grass to the right and moving back left as soon as possible to regain the dwindling crack. Pass the rusted piton on ever shrinking holds, bridging is the only option. Belay on large boulder approx ten metres from the top. HVS 5a
K.I Meldrum, R.J. Wathen 1957

Photo: Jacobs Ladder, The obvious stepped structure centre frame. © Sean Martin
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 3 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Cleaned portions of the route on lead.
Ronan O Keeffe - AltLd dog - 07/Jun/13 with Sean Martin

SeánM - AltLd O/S - 2013 with rokeeffe

82m and 7 hours of cleaning....Bring JCB next time.
Ronan O Keeffe - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Sean Martin

Voting
Total votes cast 3
hard E10 of 1
E10 of 1
easy E10 of 1
hard HVS0 of 1
HVS1 of 1
easy HVS0 of 1
hard VS0 of 1
VS0 of 1
easy VS0 of 1
hard 5b0 of 1
5b0 of 1
easy 5b0 of 1
hard 5a1 of 1
5a0 of 1
easy 5a0 of 1
hard 4c0 of 1
4c0 of 1
easy 4c0 of 1
3 Stars0 of 1
2 Stars0 of 1
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