The two climbs on Little Buttress are approximately 100m from the track (to the left) which leads to the Mahon Falls and is approx. 30m above it. It stands out as an obvious vertical and clean piece of rock about 250m from the car-park, and its south-facing wall is marked on the right hand side by an obvious off-width crack.
This route takes the vertical crack line which starts about 3m to the left of An Giorra Maol. Climb the crack for 4m to the rightward trending break, move to the right and continue steeply upwards on bigger and better holds. Belay well back.
Jack Bergin, M. Lyng 05/Sep/1996