|Deranged Cousins||VS 5a|
|45m, 2 pitches. This climb takes the right hand side of the Salamander slab just left of the arête. Start at base of arête.
1. 22 m. Climb short wall to a ledge at 6m. Climb leftwards into a groove and continue on up cracks above the groove. Belay halfway up the cliff on a ledge on the arête, just below overhang (large friends or nuts for the belay).
2. 23 m. Step up left onto a ledge and climb straight up the face above, protection improving with height. Continue on up the face keeping close to the arête. The overhang is climbed on large holds just left of the break.
Alternative finish 5b
E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey. May 1987
From the horizontal break 3 m. below the overhang, step around the arête into a deep corner. Climb the slab to the right until standing on the sharp nose. Climb straight up the impending wall above for 5m. to top. |
Stephen Gallwey, E. Hernstadt May/1987
Submit a new photo of this climb.