UKC

A serious route taking the safe line through the serac barriers on the north face of Night Butterfly 5056m that rises up to the rock buttress just right of the summit. Follow snow slopes (350m) of various steepness (30-65º) and quality to the buttress, crossing the bergschrund at the least inconvenient point. Pass right of the buttress by a streak of excellent ice (230m, ~70º-80º). The streak forks into two gullies less than a rope length before topping out onto the ridge (9h on first ascent). The party took the right gully (near vertical crux on thin ice, passing between the cornice and buttress 5000m) but notes that either one appears amenable. Continue to the summit via the west ridge (50m vertical, 250 horizontal). 10 hours on first ascent, though fit parties should be able to shave 2-3 hours off in good conditions.

Descent: The party descended by down-climbing from the summit pyramid and abseiling down the south face (2-4 abseils). It may be easier to descend the west or south west ridge. 4 hours in descent.

Bradley Morrell and Alek Zholobenko 24/Aug/2012.

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Route of Interest
Gilmour-Kernan Route

Grade: TD ***
(Dzhirnagaktu)

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