Co. Waterford > Coum Mahon >
 
Toadpipe VD 4a

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73m, 5 pitches. This climb is just to the left of a large rock island in the gully to the right. This island is the only one on the main face and has a tree on top. Start at the foot of a small slabby buttress. 1. 24m. Climb the buttress and scramble up grass to the foot of a wall. Ridiculous belay on smooth clasts. 2. 12m. Climb the wall moving left, then proceed right to a ledge. 3. 9m. Climb the wall above the ledge. Go diagonally left, then move right just below a grass ledge and climb into a recess. 4. 9m. Pull out of the recess, up rock, and then steep grass to the foot of a chimney in a corner. The chimney is the logical finish, but it is very loose (sandstone) and the climb was finished as follows - 5. 18m. Traverse left round a corner into a grassy recess and then climb a chimney to easy ground. Sandstone - loose.
Tom Woulfe, Joss Lynam 20/Jul/1969
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Did this in two on 60m ropes. We added another 20m to it and exited via a VS 4c corner.
Ronan O Keeffe - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Sean Martin

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