Mild XS 180ft #
Serious but surprisingly worthwhile, with better rock and climbing than Mind Field. Start as for Mind Field at the big L-slanting crack/overlap.
1 120ft 5b Follow the overlap for 20ft then strike R-wards up thin cracks and after 20ft move R to a wider crack near the arête. Above this gain the slab and climb it, eventually moving L till beside the pinnacle/flake of Mind Field. Continue up then L to belay (as for Mind Field) below a good crack (small cams here and good nut placement lower down).
2 60ft 5b Climb directly via a steep, slim groove to a shelf just below the top. Step L then finish direct to a grass ledge, then easily up the short wall to spike belays.
Serious but surprisingly worthwhile, with better rock and climbing than Mind Field. Start as for Mind Field at the big L-slanting crack/overlap.
1 120ft 5b Follow the overlap for 20ft then strike R-wards up thin cracks and after 20ft move R to a wider crack near the arête. Above this gain the slab and climb it, eventually moving L till beside the pinnacle/flake of Mind Field. Continue up then L to belay (as for Mind Field) below a good crack (small cams here and good nut placement lower down).
2 60ft 5b Climb directly via a steep, slim groove to a shelf just below the top. Step L then finish direct to a grass ledge, then easily up the short wall to spike belays.
Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner 07/Jun/2011.
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Route of Interest
The Urge
Grade: XS 5c ***
(Trewethet Cliff)