Easy climbing. But the top section was rather loose and the crack larger than all my gear. Top out was also pretty sketchy as there was nothing to hold onto.
hutchay - Lead - 04/May/14 with Tom
Sandreas - 2nd - 03/May/14
started with a 5b direct boulder problem
dmannion - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14
steven703 - Apr/14
misterb - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with crispin
kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2014 with Mark the vet
mike mo - 2014
Mark Kemball - 2nd - 29/Dec/13 with Nick Cox, Nic Dill
Hidden - 2nd - 31/Oct/13
Nice route. Atmospheric with the wind and fast approaching tide! Didn't really have any big enough gear for the top crack which added some spice. In my opinion 4c and a slightly easy hvs due to slightly dodgy rock. Didn't think top out was bad.
jezb1 - Lead - 30/Oct/13
Adrian Daniels - Lead - 21/Sep/13 with John Parrott, Steve Webster
Skip - TR rpt - 08/Sep/13 with Joel
Hidden - 2nd - 13/Aug/13
Hidden - Lead - 13/Aug/13
Matthew Robinson - 2nd - 06/Aug/13 with Nico
burto - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13 with tom powell
petegunn - 2nd - 19/Jul/13 with Davina
Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/13
Matthew Robinson - Lead - 17/Jul/13 with Luke S
Direct start and dropped a rope over the top for last section.
gg4419 - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Nick Stephens
jmills94 - Lead O/S - Jun/13
timstyles - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Brian Vaughan, Jon Bradley
jon bradley - 2nd rpt - 19/May/13 with Tim Styles
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Rob Greenwood
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/13
stuart34 - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with simon white, Joe Shipcott
Robin Woodward - Lead - May/13
Direct start well worth it.
demarcation86 - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Elbish
cem - 2nd rpt - 29/Mar/13 with Kirill Spiridonov
Kirill - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Charles Moreton
Direct start - hard 5b, but protected (not that I lead it) and short lived.
Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd rpt - 02/Feb/13
Best route on the crag today, but no way HVS. Loads of sort of awkward but good 4c moves, all most back n footed a section. Belay was straightforward. Will come back for the direct start!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/12 with Skip
Excellent climb, lots of "interesting moves". Probably low end of HVS.
Skip - 2nd O/S - 13/Dec/12 with Cheese Monkey
Jim Malo - Lead O/S - 17/Nov/12 with Putt
Think Ben led it, but can't remember for sure cos it was a couple of years ago.
treg - 2nd - 23/Sep/12 with Ben
felt loose but probably wasn't, but good route. take big gear for the top. interesting yet safe belay.
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Anna
Whitmoreaa - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Dan Pinkney
climbingchippie - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/12 with Katie Brown
gripped01 - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/12 with Mark Hill
Hidden - 2nd - 25/Aug/12
martin clarke - 2nd - 01/Jul/12 with john frost
Nice climb with Nicola. Didn't realise it at the time that this route would disappear and this would be the last time I'd climb it.
simonhammond1966 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/12
Went really well, but the run out over the loose stuff is very exciting. If a rope is fixed to the top to protect the loose finish the route would go at a satisfying VS 4c.
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/12
Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/12
Mike T lead
Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd O/S - 25/May/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/12
Pretty straightforward - need larger gear than I had, and the top out is a bit loose and scary
AJH - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Rebecca
Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12
Hidden - Lead - 25/Mar/12
climbingchippie - Lead - 2012 with Katie Brown
Anna duckett - 2nd - 2012 with Ben Kelsey
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Nov/11
bit loose at top
nickdonohue - Lead - Nov/11 with Jim Barritt
edmitchell - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Emma Rowe
emmarowe - 2nd - 16/Oct/11 with ed mitchell
Mark Kemball - Lead - 21/Sep/11 with Steph Le Cornu, Rob Keough
bobtheclimber - TR O/S - 21/Sep/11
domskezz - Lead - 19/Sep/11 with Jamma
Did direct start (5b), which makes for a more consistent route with fun from the word go.
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Rory
Direct start (5a/b) makes this a HVS. Otherwise top end VS 4c. Cracking route. Take at least three big cams and save two for the top third to avoid the runout. 60m rope will just about make it to the fence posts, otherwise belay of clumps of grass.
ruaidh - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Michael
HVS 5a in new rockfax and has a pumpy symbol which is funny cos it's on your feet the whole way! Also more like VS 4b, but very enjoyable all the same and a slightly exciting topout.
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/11 with Jo
Dirty, loose and character building finish up soil. Max seconded in Jeff's rucksack.
annetweddell - Lead - 03/Aug/11 with Max, the dog, Jeff
Joey C - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11
Began on the 5b start up the crack. Its better rock than if you begin on the 4a start the guide book recommends. I really enjoyed following the crack up, lay-backing at points and a lot of bridging. There are some good no hands rests and the gear is fine. I think some 'seagull bashers' would be useful as the crack widens, but by then there are some massive flat jugs to hold on to (and I had not got any!) The crux is probably when the crack leaves the arete. The top out is the worst part; proper Culm Coast top out! Rocks jammed into mud, which are very loose. A really good HVS for an introduction to what this coastline can be like sometimes; loose top outs and imaginative belays!
Legs - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/11
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11
Comedy top out and belay when your ropes are only 45m......
mikeyg - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Phil Pavey, Will Twigger
Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/11
tim exley - Lead β - 02/Jun/11 with spooner
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/11
jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 24/May/11 with Carol
petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Stephen Price
steveprice.exmouth - 2nd - 22/May/11 with Pete Callaghan
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11
Good climbing if a little worrying at the top, it's actually sounder than it looks
jkarran - Lead - 24/Apr/11 with Karen
petellis - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Cleric James Koran
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11 with crossdressingrodney
crossdressingrodney - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with victim of mathematics
Michael Aylen - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/11 with tim exley
Looked like a brilliant climb, however only Tim led up because we ran out of time. He told me it was a good climb with fairly lush handholds and protection. Deffinately one to go back and try again.
Joel Perkin - 2nd dnf - 21/Jan/11 with Tim Holland, Mike Garret
gavkellyuk - Lead O/S - 2011
Direct Start - Good quality Route. Looseness just a prerequisite for the North Coast!
El3ctroFuzz - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/10 with Joby
Hidden - Lead - 24/Oct/10
RedFox - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Tom K
Hidden - 2nd - 29/Aug/10
Climbed the direct start, all seemed easy for the grade. Didnt take big gear tho so felt a bit unnerved. Sorting out the belay at the top to the fence was a pain, would have been better off just lying down on other side of ridge and using my bodyweight.
manwithacam - Lead - 29/Aug/10 with Sarah
demarcation86 - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10 with Paul
Hidden - 07/Aug/10
Barry Kerslake - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Steve H
Steve Lenartowicz - Aug/10 with Clare
Good route, but chossy top and very little to belay one, belayed over other side of the ridge. 5b start.
Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Mike
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/10
Hidden - 2010
Hidden - Solo - 29/Jun/09
Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/09
paulh1967 - 2009
Matt Vigg - 2008
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/07
Did the direct (5b) start. Not as hard as it looked. Good climb, but top out on loose, crappy rock. Not much to belay off if you don't want to go right back to the fence...
mrtom - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Roger HSmith
magic route, direct move is special.
riddle - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Tom Elliot
Hidden - Lead - 12/Apr/07
greg101 - 2nd - 04/Feb/07 with Ben Amor
Hidden - 2007
Hidden - 2nd - Jul/06
eley1 - Lead - Jul/06 with graham
Katy Nelson - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/05 with Mark Kemball
Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/05
angleseykayaker - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/05 with Kate Lucas
Mark Kemball - Lead - Jun/05 with Katy Nelson
cem - 2nd - 28/Mar/05 with Graham Dolman
Direct start, a bit soggy
furry - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/04 with Neil
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/04
drpeters - 2004
Hidden - TR - 2003
Hidden - Solo - 17/Aug/01
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/01
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/01
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/00
Carried a short metal stake (plus hammer) up the route to use as a belay.
mikej - Lead - 28/Aug/99 with Fiona Turner
kp64zl - 2nd - Jun/97 with Kirsten
andy_pemberton - Lead - 1997
colin milton - Lead - 08/Sep/96 with eric milton
Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/96
Hidden - Lead - 10/Apr/96
Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/95
alan moore - 1995
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Aug/93 with Karen Ghiselli
Nigel Coe - 1993 with Don Sargeant
kp64zl - Lead - Apr/92 with Keith, Jason M
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 1992
Dave Rumney - Jun/90
bullybones - 1990
Andy Say - Lead - 03/Nov/89
eroica64 - AltLd - 25/Apr/88 with Denis Crampton
Mickdenali - Lead - 1988 with Gail Waller
Tom V - 17/Aug/87 with Howie Darwin
Hidden - Lead - 24/May/87
Andy Fielding - 2nd - 1987
Ken Taylor - AltLd - 12/May/85 with Andy Chadwick, Richard Langthorp
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/84
First HVS Lead
Nick Biven - Lead O/S - Jul/82
Mike C - Lead - 05/Jun/82 with Chris Davis
mark-abz - 2nd - 17/Apr/81 with Lionell
Chris Terrey - Lead - 14/Mar/81 with Gerry Dunford
Hidden - 1981
babymoac - 2nd - 22/Aug/80 with MTW
Hidden - 2nd - 0000