Caravanserai HVS 5a
[My Last climb of Caravanserai before it fell down in early 2014, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
This once classic line has suffered a serious collapse in its upper section and is no longer stable. Please avoid it. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Sadly, the top half has fallen down and the bottom half is now dangerously unstable. Avoid!

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Photo: My Last climb of Caravanserai before it fell down in early 2014 © simonhammond1966
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 150 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Easy climbing. But the top section was rather loose and the crack larger than all my gear. Top out was also pretty sketchy as there was nothing to hold onto.
hutchay - Lead - 04/May/14 with Tom

Sandreas - 2nd - 03/May/14

started with a 5b direct boulder problem
dmannion - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

steven703 - Apr/14

misterb - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with crispin

kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2014 with Mark the vet

mike mo - 2014

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 29/Dec/13 with Nick Cox, Nic Dill

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Oct/13

Nice route. Atmospheric with the wind and fast approaching tide! Didn't really have any big enough gear for the top crack which added some spice. In my opinion 4c and a slightly easy hvs due to slightly dodgy rock. Didn't think top out was bad.
jezb1 - Lead - 30/Oct/13

Adrian Daniels - Lead - 21/Sep/13 with John Parrott, Steve Webster

Skip - TR rpt - 08/Sep/13 with Joel

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead - 13/Aug/13

Matthew Robinson - 2nd - 06/Aug/13 with Nico

burto - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13 with tom powell

Direct start
petegunn - 2nd - 19/Jul/13 with Davina

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/13

Direct Start
Matthew Robinson - Lead - 17/Jul/13 with Luke S

Direct start and dropped a rope over the top for last section.
gg4419 - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Nick Stephens

jmills94 - Lead O/S - Jun/13

timstyles - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Brian Vaughan, Jon Bradley

jon bradley - 2nd rpt - 19/May/13 with Tim Styles

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Rob Greenwood

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with simon white, Joe Shipcott

Robin Woodward - Lead - May/13

Direct start well worth it.
demarcation86 - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Elbish

cem - 2nd rpt - 29/Mar/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Kirill - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Charles Moreton

Direct start - hard 5b, but protected (not that I lead it) and short lived.
Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd rpt - 02/Feb/13

Best route on the crag today, but no way HVS. Loads of sort of awkward but good 4c moves, all most back n footed a section. Belay was straightforward. Will come back for the direct start!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/12 with Skip

Excellent climb, lots of "interesting moves". Probably low end of HVS.
Skip - 2nd O/S - 13/Dec/12 with Cheese Monkey

Jim Malo - Lead O/S - 17/Nov/12 with Putt

Think Ben led it, but can't remember for sure cos it was a couple of years ago.
treg - 2nd - 23/Sep/12 with Ben

felt loose but probably wasn't, but good route. take big gear for the top. interesting yet safe belay.
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Anna

Whitmoreaa - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Dan Pinkney

climbingchippie - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/12 with Katie Brown

gripped01 - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/12 with Mark Hill

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Aug/12

martin clarke - 2nd - 01/Jul/12 with john frost

Nice climb with Nicola. Didn't realise it at the time that this route would disappear and this would be the last time I'd climb it.
simonhammond1966 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/12

Went really well, but the run out over the loose stuff is very exciting. If a rope is fixed to the top to protect the loose finish the route would go at a satisfying VS 4c.
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/12

Mike T lead
Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd O/S - 25/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/12

Pretty straightforward - need larger gear than I had, and the top out is a bit loose and scary
AJH - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Rebecca

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 25/Mar/12

climbingchippie - Lead - 2012 with Katie Brown

Anna duckett - 2nd - 2012 with Ben Kelsey

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Nov/11

bit loose at top
nickdonohue - Lead - Nov/11 with Jim Barritt

edmitchell - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Emma Rowe

emmarowe - 2nd - 16/Oct/11 with ed mitchell

Mark Kemball - Lead - 21/Sep/11 with Steph Le Cornu, Rob Keough

bobtheclimber - TR O/S - 21/Sep/11

domskezz - Lead - 19/Sep/11 with Jamma

Did direct start (5b), which makes for a more consistent route with fun from the word go.
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Rory

Direct start (5a/b) makes this a HVS. Otherwise top end VS 4c. Cracking route. Take at least three big cams and save two for the top third to avoid the runout. 60m rope will just about make it to the fence posts, otherwise belay of clumps of grass.
ruaidh - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Michael

HVS 5a in new rockfax and has a pumpy symbol which is funny cos it's on your feet the whole way! Also more like VS 4b, but very enjoyable all the same and a slightly exciting topout.
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/11 with Jo

Dirty, loose and character building finish up soil. Max seconded in Jeff's rucksack.
annetweddell - Lead - 03/Aug/11 with Max, the dog, Jeff

Joey C - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11

Began on the 5b start up the crack. Its better rock than if you begin on the 4a start the guide book recommends. I really enjoyed following the crack up, lay-backing at points and a lot of bridging. There are some good no hands rests and the gear is fine. I think some 'seagull bashers' would be useful as the crack widens, but by then there are some massive flat jugs to hold on to (and I had not got any!) The crux is probably when the crack leaves the arete. The top out is the worst part; proper Culm Coast top out! Rocks jammed into mud, which are very loose. A really good HVS for an introduction to what this coastline can be like sometimes; loose top outs and imaginative belays!
Legs - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11

Comedy top out and belay when your ropes are only 45m......
mikeyg - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Phil Pavey, Will Twigger

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/11

tim exley - Lead β - 02/Jun/11 with spooner

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/11

jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 24/May/11 with Carol

petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Stephen Price

steveprice.exmouth - 2nd - 22/May/11 with Pete Callaghan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Good climbing if a little worrying at the top, it's actually sounder than it looks
jkarran - Lead - 24/Apr/11 with Karen

petellis - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Cleric James Koran

victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11 with crossdressingrodney

crossdressingrodney - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with victim of mathematics

Michael Aylen - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/11 with tim exley

Looked like a brilliant climb, however only Tim led up because we ran out of time. He told me it was a good climb with fairly lush handholds and protection. Deffinately one to go back and try again.
Joel Perkin - 2nd dnf - 21/Jan/11 with Tim Holland, Mike Garret

gavkellyuk - Lead O/S - 2011

Direct Start - Good quality Route. Looseness just a prerequisite for the North Coast!
El3ctroFuzz - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/10 with Joby

Hidden - Lead - 24/Oct/10

RedFox - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Tom K

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Aug/10

Climbed the direct start, all seemed easy for the grade. Didnt take big gear tho so felt a bit unnerved. Sorting out the belay at the top to the fence was a pain, would have been better off just lying down on other side of ridge and using my bodyweight.
manwithacam - Lead - 29/Aug/10 with Sarah

demarcation86 - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10 with Paul

Hidden - 07/Aug/10

Barry Kerslake - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Steve H

Steve Lenartowicz - Aug/10 with Clare

Good route, but chossy top and very little to belay one, belayed over other side of the ridge. 5b start.
Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Solo - 29/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/09

paulh1967 - 2009

Matt Vigg - 2008

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/07

Did the direct (5b) start. Not as hard as it looked. Good climb, but top out on loose, crappy rock. Not much to belay off if you don't want to go right back to the fence...
mrtom - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Roger HSmith

magic route, direct move is special.
riddle - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Tom Elliot

Hidden - Lead - 12/Apr/07

greg101 - 2nd - 04/Feb/07 with Ben Amor

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/06

eley1 - Lead - Jul/06 with graham

Katy Nelson - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/05 with Mark Kemball

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/05

angleseykayaker - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/05 with Kate Lucas

Mark Kemball - Lead - Jun/05 with Katy Nelson

cem - 2nd - 28/Mar/05 with Graham Dolman

Direct start, a bit soggy
furry - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/04 with Neil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/04

drpeters - 2004

Hidden - TR - 2003

Hidden - Solo - 17/Aug/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/00

Carried a short metal stake (plus hammer) up the route to use as a belay.
mikej - Lead - 28/Aug/99 with Fiona Turner

kp64zl - 2nd - Jun/97 with Kirsten

andy_pemberton - Lead - 1997

colin milton - Lead - 08/Sep/96 with eric milton

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/96

Hidden - Lead - 10/Apr/96

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/95

Really enjoyable.
alan moore - 1995

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Aug/93 with Karen Ghiselli

Nigel Coe - 1993 with Don Sargeant

kp64zl - Lead - Apr/92 with Keith, Jason M

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 1992

Dave Rumney - Jun/90

bullybones - 1990

Andy Say - Lead - 03/Nov/89

eroica64 - AltLd - 25/Apr/88 with Denis Crampton

Mickdenali - Lead - 1988 with Gail Waller

Tom V - 17/Aug/87 with Howie Darwin

Hidden - Lead - 24/May/87

Andy Fielding - 2nd - 1987

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 12/May/85 with Andy Chadwick, Richard Langthorp

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/84

First HVS Lead
Nick Biven - Lead O/S - Jul/82

Mike C - Lead - 05/Jun/82 with Chris Davis

mark-abz - 2nd - 17/Apr/81 with Lionell

Chris Terrey - Lead - 14/Mar/81 with Gerry Dunford

Hidden - 1981

babymoac - 2nd - 22/Aug/80 with MTW

Hidden - 2nd - 0000

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Steve Waters, Mynydd, Kate Edhouse, johnpr, Ropeboy, Kelvin Cowling, Warren Earle

Total votes cast 101
hard E10 of 36
E10 of 36
easy E10 of 36
hard HVS1 of 36
HVS21 of 36
easy HVS6 of 36
hard VS8 of 36
VS0 of 36
easy VS0 of 36
hard 5b0 of 36
5b0 of 36
easy 5b0 of 36
hard 5a0 of 36
5a0 of 36
easy 5a2 of 36
hard 4c2 of 36
4c24 of 36
easy 4c6 of 36
hard 4b2 of 36
4b0 of 36
easy 4b0 of 36
3 Stars0 of 29
2 Stars19 of 29
1 Star9 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....1 of 29
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat