400m, 11 pitches.
400m, 11 pitches. 5c, 5c, 5c+, 5b, 4c, 4a, 5b, 4b, 5c, 5c, 5a. Rack required.
If it is easy to see the route from the glacier, climbing Graue Wand is not so obvious. Indeed, the cracks, some-times with rounded and deep edges, make the route demanding and sustained. the route starts on a slab before crossing the great crack of the bottom of the wall at the first belay. the 6a third pitch is pretty strenuous but it is essential to keep some strength, as there are two other sustained pitches further up.
If it is easy to see the route from the glacier, climbing Graue Wand is not so obvious. Indeed, the cracks, some-times with rounded and deep edges, make the route demanding and sustained. the route starts on a slab before crossing the great crack of the bottom of the wall at the first belay. the 6a third pitch is pretty strenuous but it is essential to keep some strength, as there are two other sustained pitches further up.
Max Niedermann and Werner Sieber 1964.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Cuthbert | 3 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Route surprisingly awkward and very trad. Got lost a little on some of the dirtier easy pitches. Ran out of time and bailed from pitch 7. Some rockfall from other parties on abseil, and the rap line was not easy to find (60m ropes advised- i missed a station, and got stuck in space). HVS 5b, but not super classic. Approach and initial ledges now a choss pile after the glacier's heavy erosion.. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Route surprisingly awkward and very trad. Got lost a little on some of the dirtier easy pitches. Ran out of time and bailed from pitch 7. Some rockfall from other parties on abseil, and the rap line was not easy to find (60m ropes advised- i missed a station, and got stuck in space). HVS 5b, but not super classic. Approach and initial ledges now a choss pile after the glacier's heavy erosion.. |
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Route of Interest
Anderrüthi / Niedermann
Grade: 5c ***
(Salbitschijen)