Conwy > Penmaen Head >
 
Not so Simplon 6b+

Adjacent Climbs
<< The Link
 
The Changing of the Guard >>
11m. Start at the lower-off point on the ledges at the top of The Link (below the upper right hand part of Railway Tunnel Wall). This is best gained via Hammy's and The Link. Climb straight up above the belay passing the R side of the concretion. Holds on the concretion seem sound. There is one hard move gaining the last bolt. Could be done with Hammy's and The Link as as one 30 m pitch although for this it would probably be best (to avoid rope drag) to stop at the belay below the upper wall to pull up the rope and re-drop it.
H.Walmsley 08/Nov/2012
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This climb is in 3 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Done as a continuation to Charlotte's Goal (F7a on Wen Wall). A good addition but nowhere near as good as The Changing of the Guard as much of the rock is 'glued on' lumps of conglomerate which have a tendency to come off in your hands. (Even if you stick to the right of the bulk of it.) Both of the upper tier extension can be linked to the routes on Wen Wall as one pitch provided you have a 60m rope and either two very long quickdraws or 2 normal ones joined together to extend the bolts on the intermediate lower-off at the top of 'The Link'. (Rope drag not an issue at all this way).
Dan724 - Lead O/S - 06/May/14 with Spike

1st ascent. It was a bit on the cold side so not sure of the grade. Good climbing.
harold walmsley - Lead RP - 08/Nov/12 with Colin Struthers

Hidden - 2011

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