The Changing of the Guard 6c
11m. From the belay point below Not so Simplon move R and climb the wall past overlaps to a reach out L to a hard finish up a steep crack.
C.Struthers 08/Nov/2012
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Done as a continuation from the 'Jenny's Welsh Cap' (F6b+ on Wen Wall). Thought that this was one of the best routes I've done at the crag. The rock is fantastic quality, really well bolted, super grippy and mainly pretty solid (will improve with traffic but is 95% ok). The final few metres high on the headwall suddenly expose you to fantastic views down the coast towards Llandudno and the Orme. The climbing there involves some amazing heel-hooks around a system of cracks and pockets. **Both of the upper tier extension can be linked to the routes on Wen Wall as one pitch provided you have a 60m rope and either two very long quickdraws or 2 normal ones joined together to extend the bolts on the intermediate lower-off at the top of 'The Link'. (Rope drag not an issue at all this way).
Dan724 - Lead O/S - 06/May/14 with Spike

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