16m. A thin and technical wall climb on the straight line at 1-2 metres left of Happy Flute and 3-4 metres right of Mango. Start climbing the second groove 3m right of Mango to reach the grassy ledge at 4m. The route goes on the head wall straight up, initially just right of a hair-line crack 1m right of the triangular block and 2m left of Flute, then follow another hair-line crack above. If you successfully complete the absolutely desperate opening move above the grassy ledge, take time, search for gear and summon all your skill, knowledge and small/tiny gear in your rack, including the unusuals (slider-nuts, pecker etc), to make sure the runners here are as good as possible. Intense wall climbs follow, culminating in a very thin balancy move (unless you want to use jugs on the left to escape to the adjacent route!?) well above the last reasonable gear to reach the final vertical wall and welcome gear (Note best not use the obvious crack of small-size nuts behind the loose-looking flake on the left there. Hunt more solid ones instead). Finish either as in Happy Flute by traversing to right, or direct (not recommended as the state of the rock there is questionable). You may want to add a grade in any but the driest condition.

FA. Masa Sakano and Graeme Baxter, 6th October 2012 (Style: head-point)..

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