Glaedyr*** E1 5b
180m, 4 pitches. A fantastic and varied route starting up the slim wall to the left of the Shruikan leaning buttress, and continuing up the right side of the golden 'sword' wall, just to the right of Firesword. Gain the slim wall fairly directly from a sort starting groove, which has immaculate slab climbing on surprising flakes, past 2 small trees after 50m. Go over into the gully behind, and walk down to a stance under the golden 'sword' wall (as for Thorn). Climb up and ascend a ramp rightwards to beneath a steep groove. Gain this by moving right, then back left, and continue on immaculate rock to gain the second stance of Firesword (below its 3rd pitch). Go up the crack (as for Firesword), then branch right, going over a small overlap to gain a stance above. Continue up under a roof, moving out right into the continuation groove above. Continue up the delicate corner to an interesting finish on the ridge.
Paul Donnithorne and Emma Alsford (alts)
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