The name refers to the many years between the first ascents of the 1st and 2nd pitches. Start as for The Savage at the end of the abseil.
P1: (25m) Vaguely folow the arete to a junction with Pergyl (where this route moves out right beneath a roof). Climb straight through the overhang near the arete until a few big moves gain the slab above. Belay on this.
P2: (15m) Step left one metre and climb the slim, bottomless groove, hard at first, then meander up to the crack of The Savage Direct Finish.

Twid Turner


ClimberDateStyle
Duncan Campbell 30/Apr AltLd dog

Flippin' Heck! Total Shambles! I tried p1 but didn't expect it to be so bouldery! The first part is probably sandy VS (which set the alarm bells going) and then suddenly the angle kicks back a lot! The start of the hard bit is quite cheesy (contrary to the GUp guide saying good rock?) though fortunately not desperate and you can get some good kit in. I fell below the actual crux when I misread a sequence and tried to hold a sandy undercut and slipped off it. Tried to do it from the no-hands rest before the difficulties but the top has a really hard couple of moves! (Maybe not so bad if you are tall?) Ended up faffing around then though I'd just quickly pull up the abb rope - ended up swinging out on it and having to let go! Finally just prussiked past the hard bit. Good to take a couple of falls especially onto gear in slightly iffy rock. Didn't feel soft to me though certainly isn't my style. Plus a great and very funny story to tell :)

with Maddy C
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Alex Mason 21/Nov/12 Lead dog

Led P1. Chronic flash pump on the final moves to gain the slab. Still pumped now.

Tom Livingstone 21/Nov/12 AltLd dog

Led P2, clean. P1 is a 'three move wonder' really, easy for the tall - I managed to do the crux moves fine. Just had to sit on the rope to take out a really awkward bomber runner!

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