Avon > Avon Gorge (New Quarry) >
No Crag for Old Men** 6b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Quit Talking and Start Chalking
En Trend >>
21m. Definitely ‘top end’ for the grade and it will feel a lot harder still if you miss grabbing the big hidden jug out on the right just before the final bulge! A modern hybrid comprising a re-equip of Quit Talking and Start Chalking coupled with a new middle section, and a retro of the top flake of No Strange Delight to a new slightly higher double ring abseil station.
Gordon A Jenkin, Brian (Blob) Wyvill (both led) 17/Jun/2012
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This climb is in 73 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

my first fall on a sport route - not sure how - but slipped just before clipping - took a good 4-5m fall and hurt ankle...but got back on and finished...very good route
evhall - Lead dog - 20/Sep/14 with goat

Plenty if rests en route in order to read the climb, tough but exciting route.
Feeling bold - TR dnf - 14/Aug/14 with Tom

R2B - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Steve McClure

hutchay - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14

Just one rest, nearly done in one go. Very nice route.
BoHeMlo - 2nd dog - 21/Jul/14

Very close! just too pumped at the last bolt. Next time!
sideshow84 - Lead dog - 15/Jul/14

AndThenIWasFlying - Lead dog - 15/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/14

Stupidly hot and sweaty today on fierce polish so had to have a chalking up rest near the top and missed out on the on sight.
DaveX - Lead dog - 10/Jul/14 with Afrosam

zcsharp - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Alex Tibbs

Cool quarry climbing
Jon_Warner - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/14 with Chaz Mc'Dee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/14

Rounded off a great day at avon. Favourite route at new quarry to date.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/14 with Jack Bradbrook

Felt kind of tired but decided to do one last route and with the quickdraws already in place and the holds chalked found myself in some sort of climbing trance moving up the wall barely focused on anything, really nice.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Rob Stanfield

Llinos C - Lead RP - 12/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/14

no, still don't like it much
hms - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/14 with Andy

Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - Jun/14 with Clare Muir

Rosea Day - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Jerome Gill

Nice climbing, but terrifying detached blocks.
DorsetGareth - Lead O/S - 13/May/14 with Ben Sutton

cornishben - Lead O/S - 13/May/14 with Gareth Pratt

Great climb, but I got way more pumped than I should have
catty_9 - 2nd - 11/May/14 with Tom Svejstrup

Hidden - Lead RP - 11/May/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 09/May/14

LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

chrisscutt - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/14 with oly

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/14

brices - Lead β - 03/Apr/14 with Llinos

Trisha Murphy - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/14

mkonca - Lead RP - Apr/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/14

Nice. Felt like 6b to me.
bonelessivar - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/14

evhall - Lead dog - 22/Mar/14 with Jon

Have climbed this route numerous times just never logged it
mallardhealhook - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/14 with Evhall

Cheese Monkey - Lead RP - 14/Mar/14 with Dominic, Marta

Cheese Monkey - Lead rpt - 14/Mar/14 with Dominic, Marta

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Mar/14

nathanxmas - 2nd dog - 13/Mar/14 with Nancy Jones

Hidden - Lead dog - 04/Mar/14

pscholl - TR dog - 2014

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/13

Alex Winter - Lead rpt - 28/Sep/13 with Jonathan

just one more - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13 with john smith

TomJ - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13

mikedevcole - Lead dog - 21/Aug/13

MikeC59 - TR dog - 16/Aug/13 with Ian L

Spacetourist - Lead - 02/Aug/13 with no_need_for_lube_yan

Really enjoyed this. Topped out in darkness, lowered off in the rain.
Chubbard - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/13 with Derek

Fun warm up! Soft 6b.
JKinsella - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/13

Tim M - Lead O/S - Jul/13 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - Jul/13 with cheesesarnie

Thought this was really nice, best route I've done in the quarry.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/13 with Ross

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 29/May/13 with Nick Smith

ok, so slopers, side pulls and polished feet aren't my favourite thing, but this was darn tough for 6b!
hms - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Jenny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 19/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

very enjoyable route.
evhall - Lead dog - 16/May/13 with Fletch

finally won the battle with the pump this time on my like 4th attempt (spread over about 1 year).
pheotleyr - Lead RP - 12/May/13 with Caleb

Got to just below the top peg then slumped down defeated. Getting shiny already....
Phil Murray - Lead dnf - 24/Apr/13 with Ian Law

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

k_k - Lead dog - 19/Apr/13

mkonca - 2nd dog - 09/Mar/13 with tommy

tommy.henriksson78 - Lead dog - 09/Mar/13 with Mustafa Konca

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Feb/13

Just missed the onsight
Cheese Monkey - Lead dog - 07/Feb/13 with Alan

BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/12

Great route - really enjoyed it - sustained, *just* got the redpoint!
Phil Murray - Lead RP - 05/Sep/12 with Steve Wright

too lazy to try lead
pheotleyr - TR rpt - 16/Aug/12 with James

Sustained - 6b I'd say. Very worthwhile.
Phil Murray - 2nd dog - 20/Jul/12 with Steve Wright

ericinbristol - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/12 with Ali

top-roped clean after a dogged lead
pheotleyr - TR RP - 22/Jun/12 with Jana

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Total votes cast 35
hard 6b+0 of 19
6b+1 of 19
easy 6b+3 of 19
hard 6b9 of 19
6b5 of 19
easy 6b1 of 19
hard 6a+0 of 19
6a+0 of 19
easy 6a+0 of 19
3 Stars1 of 16
2 Stars12 of 16
1 Star2 of 16
0 Stars1 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Lead61 of 73 (83.6%)
Followed7 of 73 (9.6%)
Toproped5 of 73 (6.8%)

'Climbed'4 of 73 (5.5%)
clean O/S34 of 73 (46.6%)
clean β1 of 73 (1.4%)
clean rpt5 of 73 (6.8%)
clean RP8 of 73 (11.0%)
dogged19 of 73 (26.0%)
dnf2 of 73 (2.7%)