Avon > Avon Gorge (New Quarry) >
No Crag for Old Men** 6b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Quit Talking and Start Chalking
No Strange Delight >>
21m. Definitely ‘top end’ for the grade and it will feel a lot harder still if you miss grabbing the big hidden jug out on the right just before the final bulge! A modern hybrid comprising a re-equip of Quit Talking and Start Chalking coupled with a new middle section, and a retro of the top flake of No Strange Delight to a new slightly higher double ring abseil station.
Gordon A Jenkin, Brian (Blob) Wyvill (both led) 17/Jun/2012
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This climb is in 44 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

chrisscutt - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/14 with oly

brices - Lead β - 03/Apr/14 with Llinos

Trisha Murphy - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/14

Nice. Felt like 6b to me.
bonelessivar - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/14

evhall - Lead dog - 22/Mar/14 with Jon

Have climbed this route numerous times just never logged it
mallardhealhook - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/14 with Evhall

Cheese Monkey - Lead RP - 14/Mar/14 with Dominic, Marta

Cheese Monkey - Lead rpt - 14/Mar/14 with Dominic, Marta

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Mar/14

nathanxmas - 2nd dog - 13/Mar/14 with Nancy Jones

Hidden - Lead dog - 04/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/13

Alex Winter - Lead rpt - 28/Sep/13 with Jonathan

just one more - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13 with john smith

TomJ - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13

mikedevcole - Lead dog - 21/Aug/13

MikeC59 - TR dog - 16/Aug/13 with Ian L

Spacetourist - Lead - 02/Aug/13 with no_need_for_lube_yan

Really enjoyed this. Topped out in darkness, lowered off in the rain.
Chubbard - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/13 with Derek

Fun warm up! Soft 6b.
JKinsella - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/13

Tim M - Lead O/S - Jul/13 with Emma

Thought this was really nice, best route I've done in the quarry.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/13 with Ross

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 29/May/13 with Nick Smith

ok, so slopers, side pulls and polished feet aren't my favourite thing, but this was darn tough for 6b!
hms - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Jenny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 19/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

very enjoyable route.
evhall - Lead dog - 16/May/13 with Fletch

finally won the battle with the pump this time on my like 4th attempt (spread over about 1 year).
pheotleyr - Lead RP - 12/May/13 with Caleb

Got to just below the top peg then slumped down defeated. Getting shiny already....
Phil Murray - Lead dnf - 24/Apr/13 with Ian Law

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

k_k - Lead dog - 19/Apr/13

mkonca - 2nd dog - 09/Mar/13 with tommy

tommy.henriksson78 - Lead dog - 09/Mar/13 with Mustafa Konca

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Feb/13

Just missed the onsight
Cheese Monkey - Lead dog - 07/Feb/13 with Alan

BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/12

Great route - really enjoyed it - sustained, *just* got the redpoint!
Phil Murray - Lead RP - 05/Sep/12 with Steve Wright

too lazy to try lead
pheotleyr - TR rpt - 16/Aug/12 with James

Sustained - 6b I'd say. Very worthwhile.
Phil Murray - 2nd dog - 20/Jul/12 with Steve Wright

ericinbristol - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/12 with Ali

top-roped clean after a dogged lead
pheotleyr - TR RP - 22/Jun/12 with Jana

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Total votes cast 25
hard 6b+0 of 14
6b+1 of 14
easy 6b+3 of 14
hard 6b5 of 14
6b4 of 14
easy 6b1 of 14
hard 6a+0 of 14
6a+0 of 14
easy 6a+0 of 14
3 Stars1 of 11
2 Stars8 of 11
1 Star2 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent

Lead37 of 44 (84.1%)
Followed4 of 44 (9.1%)
Toproped3 of 44 (6.8%)

'Climbed'2 of 44 (4.5%)
clean O/S19 of 44 (43.2%)
clean β1 of 44 (2.3%)
clean rpt4 of 44 (9.1%)
clean RP5 of 44 (11.4%)
dogged12 of 44 (27.3%)
dnf1 of 44 (2.3%)