Mallorca > Sa Gubia >
 
Princesa Original*** 6b+

Adjacent Climbs
<< Llum de Lluna
 
Princesa Right-hand >>
148m, 5 pitches. An inspiring route that tackles the full length of the back wall of the bay. Start on the grey slabs below and left of the vast orange scoop in the back wall. Belay at the tree-line or scramble up to where the wall steepens. The first bolt is an old one. 1) 6a. Climb the wall to a stance below a steeper section of wall. 2) 6c (6a/A0). Make a hard pull past the steep section (slightly easier on the left) and continue to a stance. 3) 5+. Climb to a stance on a ledge with trees. 4) 6a. Climb straight past an overhang to a ledge (optional stance). Traverse right to a small stance below a corner. 5) 5+. Traverse right for 8m then climb directly up the wall to the cliff top. Descent - Single 70m rope minimum. Abseil from top of Sol Solet to the shared belay with Princesa. Continue down Princesa to tree ledge stance. Down Princesa to top of second pitch. Two further abseils down Princesa to the ground. © ROCKFAX
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 17 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Fantastic, though a little confusing with mid-pitch belays. Sustained! Aid point P2
AlexanderRyanBanks - Lead O/S - 18/Dec/13

Fred_Richard - 18/Oct/13 with bill turner

Great route but very sustained and all pitches seem tough for grades, we thought more like 6a, 6c+, 6a, 6a+ and 6a. Lots of climbing and crux especially is very thin for feet!
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/11 with Sophie B

Quality climbing throughout: tricky crux with barely anything for the feet and 'crozzly' crimps for the fingers; more sharp 'crozzliness' on the 6a bulge on penultimate pitch, which hurt my softcore fingers. Led the easier pitches: 3 and the final glory pitch, which had awesome exposure and some steep trickery. A memorable Sa Gubia adventure despite the battle:)
sophiecb - AltLd dog - 17/Oct/11 with Chad

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Sep/11

Pitch 1 was long (35m ish) - Chi Lead, Pitch 2 was hard and very little for feet - Jon lead dogged, i fell off 2nd ing. 3rd pitch has an extra belay in the middle; thought it was the end of pitch 3 (thought i ran 3 and 4 together) - Chi Lead. pitch 4 real has and extra belay and chain or 2. jon got to end of pitch 4 and we thought it was the end of the climbing so abseil off. we therefore did not do the last pitch.
Chi Cheng - AltLd dog - 25/Apr/11 with Jon Fane

Seymore Butt - 2010

First stance doesn't look so bad. Route description seems to be slightly confusing as there are a lot more bolts now and quite a few belay chains. We did it in 6 pitches? Possible to go direct on last pitch, (looks better than the traverse which although easy, is pretty run out). Also seems to be an extra belay chain in the middle of pitch four/five. Nice route though, good end to the trip.
lx - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/09 with Jen

Glyn - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/09 with Jonny

Hidden - Mar/09

Kyuzo - 2007

Led p2 & 4. Had to aid crux of p2
cem - AltLd dog - 14/May/04 with Dave Amos

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Mar/04

Roget - AltLd O/S - 17/Nov/97 with jon

shark - AltLd - 31/Jan/97 with Guy Maddox

Excellent
Nick Biven - Lead O/S - Dec/92 with Ray Jenkins

Mike Owen - 25/Jul/91 with Elaine Owen

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, oliverthomp, Tadams

Voting
Total votes cast 11
hard 6c1 of 5
6c0 of 5
easy 6c3 of 5
hard 6b+1 of 5
6b+0 of 5
easy 6b+0 of 5
hard 6b0 of 5
6b0 of 5
easy 6b0 of 5
3 Stars5 of 6
2 Stars1 of 6
1 Star0 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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