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|Mallorca > Sa Gubia >
|Princesa Right-hand|| 6b+ |
<< Princesa Original
Sol Solet >>
|More adventurous than Princesa, and on great rock. There are various ways of combining pitches, including doing the whole thing in just three pitches with 60m ropes.
1) 6b+. Climb the steep wall past an optional stance to a small ledge. A long pitch, the upper part of which has a line of bolts that lead left in to the line of Princesa - do not go this way.
2) 6a. Climb up left then back right to a poor sloping stance
3) 6b+. Move up and right via thin moves and tackle the overhang (try not to go too direct) and continue to a stance.
4) 6a. Continue up on great rock to a shared stance with Princesa.
5) 6b+. Tackle the overhang and enjoy the steep slabs to the top, passing another optional belay.
Descent - As for Princesa. © ROCKFAX|
This is the marginally easier right-hand start which leap-frogs one pitch on the original. Start below the right-hand line of bolts.
1) 6b+, 48m from first bolt, 58m from trees. Climb the new bolts up the steep wall. There is an intermediate lower-off
2) 6bm, 30m Climb up left then back right to a ledge. There may be a new line going right from halfway up this pitch. Yes this is the route....
It continues to the right of Princesa and then crosses back over to the left before the upper roof that Princesa avoids. There are many intermediate belays to allow for shorter pitches.
We rapped with a 70m rope 30m,30m (to big Princesa tree ledge), 35m (continuing down Princesa), 35m (takes you to the first Princesa bolt - perhaps better to split this abseil and reach easier ground). It is easier to abseil down most of Princesa as the line is straighter.
From here finish up Princesa Original pitches 4 and 5.
This climb is in 2 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
Also called Sol Solet and has two more 6b+ pitches, the middle one is super sharp but the top one is excellent. First pitch is the best, and some dodgy bolting in places making it a bit dangerous on the 6a pitch...
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/11 with Emily
shark - Lead O/S - 2000 with Guy Maddox