UKC

46m. Once a standard-setting 5.9, today Moby Dick is rated 5.10a and is still stout for its grade. Technical climbing off the deck is followed by sustained, widening and sometimes awkward moves. The second crux, a fist crack at the top, is just a hair narrower than a true off-width crack. Bring a healthy selection of 2-4? cams to adequately protect this wide section.

FA: Herb Swedlund, Penny Carr FFA: Frank Sacherer, Steve Roper May/1963.

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User Date Notes
seankenny 11 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Totally classic route. Protect the lower wide crack section using the seam to the right, takes small cams and wires, saving your big stuff for the upper section. #4s ideal but there’s a place for a #2 if your short on the big stuff.
Show beta
βeta: Totally classic route. Protect the lower wide crack section using the seam to the right, takes small cams and wires, saving your big stuff for the upper section. #4s ideal but there’s a place for a #2 if your short on the big stuff.

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Voting
High 5.10b
Mid 5.10b
Low 5.10b
High 5.10a
Mid 5.10a
Low 5.10a
High 5.9
Mid 5.9
Low 5.9
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cooke Book

Grade: 5.10a ***
(Daff Dome)

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