UKC

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Climbing is banned on most sectors including Deportivo (sometimes known as Chorreras or Sucina) and Sherpa from 1st january till 30th June due to nesting birds.https://www.valenciaclimb.com/regulations/

Rockfax Description
A fully-equipped sport route up the right-hand side of the face and the wall above the huge ledge. It can be done up and down on a 70m rope. The pitches are:
1) 6b, 45m.
2) 6b+, 28m.
3) 6b, 40 (or 65 )m.
4) 6a+, 18m. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
Tall Oak 19 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: What a route. WHAT A ROUTE! The area and landscape was stunning on a still winter's day today and with the ambience and setting we could not have been luckier. Rockfax guide is hard to judge. P1 is easy to see, P2 I saw two routes going up and now in hindsight and from the top of the pillar of P1, it's straight up and NOT left up onto the upper section. Well, its defo not 6b+ this way up so assume its the only other route which looks relatively rebolted. The route we took is much much easier and say its a 5 even a 4 even. P3 made my trip. Sublime. Fantastic. Kept me on my toes. Utter brilliance! Dual ropes, 60's, made life was easier in my opinion.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a route. WHAT A ROUTE! The area and landscape was stunning on a still winter's day today and with the ambience and setting we could not have been luckier. Rockfax guide is hard to judge. P1 is easy to see, P2 I saw two routes going up and now in hindsight and from the top of the pillar of P1, it's straight up and NOT left up onto the upper section. Well, its defo not 6b+ this way up so assume its the only other route which looks relatively rebolted. The route we took is much much easier and say its a 5 even a 4 even. P3 made my trip. Sublime. Fantastic. Kept me on my toes. Utter brilliance! Dual ropes, 60's, made life was easier in my opinion.
chris sm 15 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. The top section of the route has three distinct pitches (i.e. three belay points). The individual pitch grades are probably 6b,6b+/6c,6a (all about 20m long) I guess stringing the first two together gives you a 40m solid 6c. However, we split them. Either way, these pitches are superb. The first pitch is almost 45m long and has 9 bolts so feels a little run out on the easier bits.
Show beta
βeta: Great route. The top section of the route has three distinct pitches (i.e. three belay points). The individual pitch grades are probably 6b,6b+/6c,6a (all about 20m long) I guess stringing the first two together gives you a 40m solid 6c. However, we split them. Either way, these pitches are superb. The first pitch is almost 45m long and has 9 bolts so feels a little run out on the easier bits.
David Mora 23 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Near one year old was instaled some new abseil points to abseil the upper wall. Then you can make the 3 pith longer than the original and could be 6c. On the first ascent we abseiled with a 60 m rope but the last abseil was made from the charasteristic pine tree on the left side. David Mora
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Near one year old was instaled some new abseil points to abseil the upper wall. Then you can make the 3 pith longer than the original and could be 6c. On the first ascent we abseiled with a 60 m rope but the last abseil was made from the charasteristic pine tree on the left side. David Mora

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Cabezon de Oro

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Servina

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Reconco)

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