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|Benidorm > Ponoch >|
|Héroes del silencio|| 6c+ |
<< Fisura Hermanos Gallego
|190m, 5 pitches. An excellent, fully bolted route, giving sustained, fingery climbing on perfect rock. Start beneath the line of new bolts up a non-descript wall in the next bay to the left of Valencianos.
1) 6a, 45m. Follow the bolts up the wall to a good ledge.
2) 6a+, 25m. Climb the concave wall and make a tough move around the bulge. A tricky pitch.
3) 6b+, 45m. The wall above has a fingery start and a desperate second clip. Things then ease considerably and enjoyable climbing leads to a stance in a break.
4) 6b+, 45m. Traverse left, then steeply past some holes to pull out at the base of a smooth slab. Thin climbing weaves around the bolts before easier ground and a shallow groove reach a calcite stance with an assortment of belays.
5) 6c+, 30m. Traverse left to a steep crack line. Follow this and make a desperate and blind pull onto the wall above. Move out right to easier ground, before another fingery shield, fortunately easier than it looks, gains easy ground and a belay.
DESCENT - Abseil down a new set of abseil stations off-line to the left of the route (facing in).
FA. Chiri Ros, Isabel Pagan, Manuel Amat Castill 1991/92
Photo: The fifth and crux pitch of Heroes del Silencio, 6c+ © Joughton
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This climb is in 2 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
I led the 6b+ and 6c+ pitches, thought they were quality pitches, especially the 6c+ - quite tough on the fingers though, and quite thin for 6c+.
Oh and the bolting is awful.
Joughton - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/12
Quite tricky to spot the bolts. Glorious route but were forced to abandon at 4th pitch and retreat to the airport.
DrGav - AltLd dnf - 05/Nov/06 with Dave