|190m, 5 pitches. |
An excellent, fully bolted route, giving sustained, fingery climbing on perfect rock. Start beneath the line of new bolts up a nondescript wall in the next bay to the left of Valencianos.
1) 6a, 45m. Follow the bolts up the wall to a good ledge.
2) 6a+, 20m. Climb the concave wall and make a tough move around the bulge. A tricky pitch.
3) 6b+, 40m. The wall above has a fingery start and a desperate second clip. Things then ease considerably and enjoyable climbing leads to a stance in a break.
4) 6b+, 40m. Traverse left, then steeply past some holes to pull out at the base of a smooth slab. Thin climbing weaves around the bolts before easier ground and a shallow groove reach a calcite stance with an assortment of belays.
5) 6c+, 30m. Traverse left to a steep crack line. Follow this and make a desperate and blind pull onto the wall above. Move out right to easier ground, before another fingery shield - fortunately easier than it looks - gains easy ground and a belay.
Descent - Abseil down a new set of abseil stations off-line to the left of the route (facing in). © ROCKFAX
FA. Chiri Ros, Isabel Pagan, Manuel Amat Castill 1991/92
Photo: The fifth and crux pitch of Heroes del Silencio, 6c+ © Joughton
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