|220m, 6 pitches. |
A fantastic route with contrasting climbing. There is some loose rock, so care is needed. The climb is fully bolted, though there is no belay at the top of the first pitch so take a couple of slings. Start at the back of the bay, at the first easy ground to the left of the pinnacle/tower.
1) 6a, 45m. Once you spot the new bolts, follow these negotiating a tricky bulge before the rock disappears and loose scrambling gains a big ledge. Belay by the scratched 'X' which shows the way and the start of the good climbing.
2) 6b+, 45m. Follow the rib, grooves and wall above by sustained, sharp solution-pocket pulling.
3) 6c+, 40m. Climb boldly to a bolt, then on to a shelf beneath a leaning wall. After a tricky start this gives superb climbing up the shallow groove system running up its right-hand side. Pull out onto easier ground and continue to another good ledge.
4) 6a+, 30m. No bolts are visible, but follow the ledges right for a couple of moves, before launching confidently upwards, whereupon the bolts do appear. Sustained and excruciating moves lead up the wall and rib to a belay.
5) 6b, 25m. Cautiously gain a loose alcove and try not to imagine what built the nest. Exit rightwards before enjoying the perfectly formed leaning wall above.
6) 6b+, 35m. Follow the wall leftwards, then back right before tackling the hanging groove. Trend back left via one tricky wall to reach a good belay.
Descent - Abseil carefully back down the route. When you reach the 'X' ledge at the top of pitch 1, scramble around the bay to the right (facing out) and descend a couple of steps to escape via an abseil station. This is above the batch of trivial single-pitch routes on the wall to the left of pitch 1. © ROCKFAX
FA. Manuel Amat Castill, Antonio "Chiri" Ros 1989/90