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Wallbanger** E4 5c

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45m, 2 pitches. A superb and unusual route which is by far the most popular on the wall. It is actually considerably more strenuous than it looks, mainly because the cracks aren't the correct width for good jams. Start at the lower right-hand side of the wall, three metres left of a wide chimney with a large wedge of solid rock in it. 1) 5c, 25m. Climb up steep juggy rock to the base of the crack laced wall. Pull into the crack and paddle your way up it with a slight leftwards detour where it gets tricky. Continue to the blocky recess to belay. A powerful pitch that will feel 6a if at all damp. 2) 5b, 20m. Move up to a ledge on the left then climb straight up the cracks above. After 6m move left to a spike in a recess (on Rollerwall). Finish by passing the bulge above on its left. © ROCKFAX
FA. P.Littlejohn 23.3.80 23/Mar/1980
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 15 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Led P2. Little gem.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Jemma Powell

Long pumpy route, did it in one pitch and placed over 20 runners.
colesy - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12

Felt tough!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Mike

mwatson - 2011

JulesV - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Shauna Cunningham

Nice to see it upgraded. I must have been strong back then.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Sep/96 with Karen Ghiselli

sdht - 2nd - 22/Jun/96 with Tim Jepson

Alan James - UKC and UKH - AltLd - May/95

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Apr/94

Certainly strenuous but I'm not sure about E4; E3 (but on the tough side) felt about right
Andy Say - Lead O/S - 04/May/90

Hidden - Lead - 26/Mar/89

Hidden - AltLd - 1989

Pitch 2
Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/88 with Kel Toplis, Steve Wigmore

Mike Owen - 20/Apr/84 with Phil Ralph

E2 back then, but I thought it was rather tough!
Mark Kemball - AltLd - 08/Apr/82 with Dave Abbey

Voting
Total votes cast 15
hard E50 of 5
E50 of 5
easy E50 of 5
hard E41 of 5
E43 of 5
easy E41 of 5
hard E30 of 5
E30 of 5
easy E30 of 5
hard 6a0 of 5
6a0 of 5
easy 6a1 of 5
hard 5c4 of 5
5c0 of 5
easy 5c0 of 5
hard 5b0 of 5
5b0 of 5
easy 5b0 of 5
3 Stars5 of 5
2 Stars0 of 5
1 Star0 of 5
0 Stars0 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
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