A superb and unusual route which is by far the most popular on the wall. It is actually considerably more strenuous than it looks, mainly because the cracks aren't the correct width for good jams. Start at the lower right-hand side of the wall, three metres left of a wide chimney with a large wedge of solid rock in it.1) 5c, 25m. Climb up steep juggy rock to the base of the crack laced wall. Pull into the crack and paddle your way up it with a slight leftwards detour where it gets tricky. Continue to the blocky recess to belay. A powerful pitch that will feel 6a if at all damp.2) 5b, 20m. Move up to a ledge on the left then climb straight up the cracks above. After 6m move left to a spike in a recess (on Rollerwall). Finish by passing the bulge above on its left. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn 23.3.80 23/Mar/1980
Ticklists: Ultimate E4 ticklist.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
pumpy. lead in one pitch. Moves are all easy, just it's well steep. second pitch is full of loose blocks, holding in other blocks!
Rodger very smooth on 1st pitch. Good route.
|Toby Dunn||26/May/13||Lead O/S||
|Alex Mason||05/May/13||Lead O/S||
Led P2. Little gem.
Long pumpy route, did it in one pitch and placed over 20 runners.
|Ian Jones||?/Sep/96||Lead O/S||
Nice to see it upgraded. I must have been strong back then.
|Alan James - UKC and UKH||?/May/95||AltLd|
|Andy Say||04/May/90||Lead O/S||
Certainly strenuous but I'm not sure about E4; E3 (but on the tough side) felt about right
|Stoney Boy||02/Apr/88||Lead O/S||
Kel Toplis, Steve Wigmore
E2 back then, but I thought it was rather tough!