Restricted Access
Due to the tilted nature of the huge rock platform at the base of the cliff, retreat from routes on the SW and S faces is only possible for 2 - 3 hours before or after low tide. Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed. A large rock fall has affected some routes left of Surprise Attack.
2018 - another large rockfall has removed parts of routes in the 'Seafarers' area on the west side of the point.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seaonal Restriction due to chough nesting: 'Nightmare on Lily Street' to 'Brain Drain' inclusive. This includes the Route 'Daydreams'.
Rockfax Description
The last route to use the start of Surprise Attack to break through the initial roofs is a hard and technical climb up the big wall just right of the rounded arete.
1) 5b, 18m. Step right from the first break on Surprise Attack and then climb over a bulge to a crack. Pull up rightwards to belay on a ledge (shared with The Voyage Out).
2) 6a, 30m. Step left and climb an open groove for 10m until you can move up and right to better holds. Gain a line of holds above which leads up and left to the base of a steep groove. Follow this to a ledge then climb a crack above to the top. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, L.Foulkes 23/Apr/1984.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mewsford Point
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Downward Bound
Grade: E4 6a ***
(The Castle)