Rockfax Description
A magnificent route up groovy rock. The protection is good, after the start, but the climbing is steep and sustained until you get to the headwall. Start on a ledge right of the recess and traverse left to reach the left-hand of two grooves above the pool. Contort up the groove to reach a wide crack, follow this then traverse right and up across the steep wall. Step around the juggy arete, in a superb position, into another groove. Climb this and the bulge above with difficulty. Finish more easily up the razor sharp headwall. © Rockfax

P Littlejohn 11/May/1978

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
MichaelGallimore 24/May Lead O/S

A bit greasy at the start but fine as soon as I found some jams. Superb route with loads of different sections.

Martin, Flavio
FlavioL1989 24/May 2nd O/S
Sardien 18/Apr 2nd O/S

One of the best lines ever. Such cool moves up the face and around the arete! What a place!

James Oswald 05/Apr Lead O/S

Excellent route, great technical climbing.

Nick Duboust
Hidden 04/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Apr Lead O/S
Mark Warnett ?/Apr Lead O/S

Wow! Doesn't get any better than this!

misterb ?/Apr 2nd O/S

bloody awesome

Justin T ?/Apr Lead O/S

Another quality Littlejohn route.

Nick B
drysori 14/Sep/14 2nd
dan gibson 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Misha 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Apharri 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Mega. Fav Pembroke E3 so far

Dave Wharton
Tim W 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt

V fun but with a wet tricky crux. Thought I was going to have to do a full-on-rescue to retrieve my in-situ second.

bigie bob 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S


Ellen Cobby 25/Aug/13 2nd dog
tim newton 24/Aug/13 2nd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Andrew Bevan
Stefan_Morris 01/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Quality route, Amazing!

Ed morris 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Pure class, expecting the top section to be as good as the first half would just be greedy!

Duncan Campbell 31/May/13 Lead O/S

Amazing. Very greasy but with some traditional skills it was fine!

gravity 26/May/13 2nd dog

Tide came in soon after we started. I got a bit wet on belay ledge, so leader (Hugh) had to belay at top of initial groove. I then hurriedly did first few moves in trainers, to escape advancing sea. Groove above was greasy and wet. Move around arete was superb. I found bulge (crux?) was difficult and strenuous. Memorable!

Hugh Thomas
colesy 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Had to belay 30 foot up the route as the sea was big. Adam got wet! Brilliant route...

Adam Mullholland
dswansonlow 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Emma Twyford
drysori 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Johnny Baker ??/2013 -

afternoon sun coinciding with lowish tide required

Hidden ??/2013 2nd dog
dav 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant route.

Gill B
burto 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 13/May/12 Lead O/S

very greasy start made it interesting. Great route

andrew sandercock 05/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Mark A
markalmack 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd
drcorbasisgod 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
cem 28/Aug/11 2nd

Brilliant, and not as sustained as the guidebook would have you believe.

thomasadixon 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Great climbing, slight shame about the rambly top but it didn't bother me at the time! Best E3 I've done maybe.

Ian Jones 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Superb with a very hard crux bulge. Only just made it.

Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
datoon 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dan McManus
Tim M 30/May/10 Lead O/S

Great route - not as continuously sustained as the guide makes out.

climbergg 30/May/10 2nd
irish paul 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Andy F
Paz 13/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Down climbed as it was wet.

Adam Ellwood 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Dave Evans
Ram MkiV 05/May/07 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Dave Taylor
feilx 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
haydng ??/2007 Lead O/S
Mark Riley 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Initial groove and crack was wet, I probably went right a little early. Oops :)

Chubbard 09/Apr/06 2nd O/S
C Godfrey
Chad123 ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Awesome route, nice steep, airy moves and the route just keeps going. Not bad first E3 as all hard moves are well protected.

Kev Little ??/2006 Lead RP
Gus 29/May/05 Lead β
Billg ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/01 2nd
Hidden 23/May/98 Lead O/S
sadams 02/May/98 Lead O/S
John Boyle
Rich Kirby ?/May/98 Lead O/S
Si Clapham ??/1998 Lead
Steve Crowe 06/Apr/96 Lead O/S
Andy Edgar ??/1996 Lead O/S

loved it despite greasy start, very pleased .

Hugh Woodland
Hidden ??/1995 2nd
Dave Rumney ??/1994 2nd
Hidden 28/May/89 -
steve L 19/Jun/88 Lead
Clive Curle
andy gittins ??/1988 -
Mike Owen 22/Apr/84 -
Elaine Owen
Hidden ??/1982 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 23
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set