A magnificent route up groovy rock. The protection is good, after the start, but the climbing is steep and sustained until you get to the headwall. Start on a ledge right of the recess and traverse left to reach the left-hand of two grooves above the pool. Contort up the groove to reach a wide crack, follow this then traverse right and up across the steep wall. Step around the juggy arete, in a superb position, into another groove. Climb this and the bulge above with difficulty. Finish more easily up the razor sharp headwall. © Rockfax
P Littlejohn 11/May/1978
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
A bit greasy at the start but fine as soon as I found some jams. Superb route with loads of different sections.
One of the best lines ever. Such cool moves up the face and around the arete! What a place!
|James Oswald||05/Apr||Lead O/S||
Excellent route, great technical climbing.
|Mark Warnett||?/Apr||Lead O/S||
Wow! Doesn't get any better than this!
|Justin T||?/Apr||Lead O/S||
Another quality Littlejohn route.
|dan gibson||31/Aug/14||Lead O/S||
Mega. Fav Pembroke E3 so far
|Tim W||29/Jun/14||2nd O/S|
V fun but with a wet tricky crux. Thought I was going to have to do a full-on-rescue to retrieve my in-situ second.
|bigie bob||18/Apr/14||2nd O/S|
|Adam Booth||25/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
|Ellen Cobby||25/Aug/13||2nd dog|
|tim newton||24/Aug/13||2nd O/S|
Quality route, Amazing!
|Ed morris||01/Jul/13||Lead O/S||
Pure class, expecting the top section to be as good as the first half would just be greedy!
|Duncan Campbell||31/May/13||Lead O/S||
Amazing. Very greasy but with some traditional skills it was fine!
Tide came in soon after we started. I got a bit wet on belay ledge, so leader (Hugh) had to belay at top of initial groove. I then hurriedly did first few moves in trainers, to escape advancing sea. Groove above was greasy and wet. Move around arete was superb. I found bulge (crux?) was difficult and strenuous. Memorable!
Had to belay 30 foot up the route as the sea was big. Adam got wet! Brilliant route...
afternoon sun coinciding with lowish tide required
|chris wyatt||13/May/12||Lead O/S||
very greasy start made it interesting. Great route
|andrew sandercock||05/Apr/12||2nd O/S||
Brilliant, and not as sustained as the guidebook would have you believe.
Great climbing, slight shame about the rambly top but it didn't bother me at the time! Best E3 I've done maybe.
|Ian Jones||17/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
Superb with a very hard crux bulge. Only just made it.
Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
|Tim M||30/May/10||Lead O/S||
Great route - not as continuously sustained as the guide makes out.
|irish paul||17/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
Down climbed as it was wet.
|Adam Ellwood||26/Aug/07||Lead O/S||
|Ram MkiV||05/May/07||Lead O/S||
|Mark Riley||11/Jun/06||Lead O/S||
Initial groove and crack was wet, I probably went right a little early. Oops :)
Awesome route, nice steep, airy moves and the route just keeps going. Not bad first E3 as all hard moves are well protected.
|Kev Little||??/2006||Lead RP|
|Rich Kirby||?/May/98||Lead O/S|
|Steve Crowe||06/Apr/96||Lead O/S||
|Andy Edgar||??/1996||Lead O/S||
loved it despite greasy start, very pleased .