Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affects the routes Star Wars to The Deerhunter. (2023 - this restriction has been lifted from July 3rd 2023)
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restriction, to protect nesting Choughs, affects the routes Star Wars to Deerhunter. (Lifted for 2023)
Rockfax Description
A great hard route but with some old fixed gear that may not now be trustworthy. Climb Star Wars to the base of the long straight crack. Move left, with your feet in the break, then up (old peg) to a slanting roof (small cam). Pull leftwards head then up the wall with difficulty to a break. Finish easily above. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson 02/May/1987.
100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , 101Pembroke Extremes
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Grade: E6 6a ***
(St. Govan's Head)