UKC

Restricted Access

Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affects the routes Star Wars to The Deerhunter.  

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restriction, to protect nesting Choughs, affects the routes Star Wars to Deerhunter.  

 

 

 

 

39m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An atmospheric route but with some suspect rock. Start at very low tide below a groove 6m right of the Big in America flake; or abseil to a flat spike on the upper left-hand side of this groove.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb the lower groove then step left to the flat spike - refuge belay if required. Trend back rightwards into a long groove - bold but easy. Climb the open groove for 4m then pull left onto the arete. Climb this straight over a small overlap to reach a ledge, grovel onto this then climb a short groove to a belay.
2) 6a, 15m. Climb juggy cracks in the left wall of the groove above to the second thread then pull rightwards in an exposed position onto the wall right of a rib. Move up to a thread and finish more easily above. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson, H.Gibson 17/Mar/1990.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Steve Crowe 6 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Take care with loose rock. 2006
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take care with loose rock. 2006

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
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High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
Air Raid

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Mount Sion East)

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