UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

There may be a temporary restriction on the route 'Hercules' due to nesting chough - look for on site signs and avoid this route if chough activity around the hole in the brown pillar adjacent to the first half of the route.

36m.

Rockfax Description
'Satisfaction' in Japanese - the wall left of the arete is superb, popular, polished and usually occupied. Move up to the break below and right of the cave. Traverse this rightwards until it is possible to pull up left into a groove. Move back slightly right to another groove then make a tricky move up left to gain good holds. Follow the wall above on some amazing juggy rock, keeping left of the finishing corner. © Rockfax

FA. K.Wilkinson, S.Jones 27/Aug/1978.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate E1 ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , 101Pembroke Extremes , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Becky's ticklist , Extreme 2018 , Pembroke Goalz , UK Holiday Plans , 3 star Pembroke e1. , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 33 By 33 , 2021 , Pembs '21 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Pembs Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 4 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Only on the blunt end so would like to go back one day and lead it. Cool route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only on the blunt end so would like to go back one day and lead it. Cool route.
KCrouchen94 26 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fun route with good holds but very tiring
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fun route with good holds but very tiring
Pythonist 15 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I too was underwhelmed by this one - if it ended about half way between the platform and the top, it'd be perfect. The slight confusion in the line, along with the strenuous but un-difficult nature of the upper section, just takes away from the overall route - i.e. at the ledge I loved this climb, by the top I was swearing at it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I too was underwhelmed by this one - if it ended about half way between the platform and the top, it'd be perfect. The slight confusion in the line, along with the strenuous but un-difficult nature of the upper section, just takes away from the overall route - i.e. at the ledge I loved this climb, by the top I was swearing at it!
Chad123 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with the above, sustained interest but never particularly hard, lots of stonking gear too, only real problem is route-finding and choice of routes all the way up. I thought 3 star E1, definately more interest than The Arrow for instance.....
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with the above, sustained interest but never particularly hard, lots of stonking gear too, only real problem is route-finding and choice of routes all the way up. I thought 3 star E1, definately more interest than The Arrow for instance.....
Alun 7 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I was slightly underwhelmed by this 'classic' E1, and I don't feel it has a strong enough line, or a good enough position, to warrant three stars. The climbing is continually interesting right until the end though, which redeems it somewhat.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I was slightly underwhelmed by this 'classic' E1, and I don't feel it has a strong enough line, or a good enough position, to warrant three stars. The climbing is continually interesting right until the end though, which redeems it somewhat.
chris wyatt 2 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Watch your ropes getting jammed in a little clamp on the face. Best to clip both ropes lower down to avoid this
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Watch your ropes getting jammed in a little clamp on the face. Best to clip both ropes lower down to avoid this
Kyuzo 26 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Totally awesome, beautiful setting, and interesting climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Totally awesome, beautiful setting, and interesting climbing.
John Alcock 1 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Easier if you bear left a little at half height, more pumpy if go head straight up the corner.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easier if you bear left a little at half height, more pumpy if go head straight up the corner.
chris j 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Steady, not hard, unless you're used to gritstone length routes, when you'll pump out just as you get to the jugs...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Steady, not hard, unless you're used to gritstone length routes, when you'll pump out just as you get to the jugs...
victim of mathematics 11 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route indeed. Some of the jugs at the top are so big you can get your whole arm behind them. Great if you're pumped to death.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route indeed. Some of the jugs at the top are so big you can get your whole arm behind them. Great if you're pumped to death.

Logged Ascents

1756 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stennis Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 232 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 248
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 241
Votes cast 232
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Arrow

Grade: E1 5b ***
(St. Govan's Head)

Loading Notifications...