Grey English Morning*** E5 6b
[Grey English Morning Direct, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
An amazingly-positioned route which gives sustained climbing up the wall below Pleasure Dome after a devious start. The rib at the bottom is often wet and greasy. It has seen few ascents in recent years and may well be bolder now that the peg is old. Start below the short leaning wall and make a juggy traverse right into a corner. Move up and right to reach the (wet) rib. Climb this until it is possible to swing left onto the face (old peg - not crucial). Continue direct above to the base of the ramp on Pleasure Dome. Move rightwards up the wall to reach easier ground, and the top. The original start was from a hanging stance in the chimney but this is an uncomfortable stance and your belayer is above you when you start climbing the rib. © ROCKFAX


FA. Gary Gibson 27.9.87 27/Sep/1987

Photo: Grey English Morning Direct © victim of mathematics
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 15 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Arggggh soooo puuuummmpppeeedddd!! Had to fight outrageously hard - moves up the rib were unobvious but brilliant, and then the wall above felt desperate on wasting arms. Got to the rest on Pleasure Dome but ended up getting drawn onto and up that route in a delirious state of fatigue before moving back right (had to will myself to not just finish up P.D, so pumped was I!) but nevertheless felt satisfied with the line. Would like to return and do it more directly when my forearms are bigger, but would recommend abbing in because had a couple of bits of kit pull out on the rib from rope drag, and the initial wall is cool but a bit crozzly. But above the sea and atmospheric as a route gets - god I love Pembroke!!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/15 with Will

Rob Pitt - 2nd - 21/Apr/14 with Lee Roberts

Howard Lawledge - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Maddy

Felt pretty hard compared to most other Pembroke E5s I've been on, but reasonably well protected. Great climbing! probably about f7b.
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

colesy - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Adam Mullholland

Incredible. Hard!
JRae - 2nd - 23/Aug/11 with M Watson

Pure class, pulled hard on a mono to get past the crux...
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Mike

mwatson - 2011

JulesV - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10 with Shauna Cunningham

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Andy Reeve

soph - 2nd dog - Aug/10 with Dan McManus

sadams - 2nd - 30/Mar/97 with John Boyle

craig h - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/94 with Shaun

keefe - 19/Apr/92 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - 19/Apr/92 with keefe

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
brices, quiffhanger, feilx
Voting
Total votes cast 26
hard E60 of 9
E60 of 9
easy E60 of 9
hard E55 of 9
E54 of 9
easy E50 of 9
hard E40 of 9
E40 of 9
easy E40 of 9
hard 6c0 of 9
6c0 of 9
easy 6c0 of 9
hard 6b0 of 9
6b0 of 9
easy 6b0 of 9
hard 6a8 of 9
6a1 of 9
easy 6a0 of 9
3 Stars8 of 8
2 Stars0 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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