70m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good trip which gains a ledge below the arete right of the big chimney by a long traverse. Considering the grade, a rope is advisable for this first pitch.
1) 40m. Descend from the end of the disappearing rock platform to and pick the easiest line leftwards, above the high tide line, to a ledge on the arete.
2) 30m. Climb left from the belay then move up onto the wall. Either move left into the corner and climb it or, better, climb the wall to the right of the corner. © Rockfax

FA. C.Mortlock 31.5.69 31/May/1969

Ticklists: Must-do routes.

john. e.r 30/Aug Lead
with rx
Clegm 27/Aug Lead
MarkRoe 11/Aug AltLd O/S

Even with two ropes and loads of long extenders whenever necessary, it's still damn hard to properly protect the first pitch for your second without getting a stack of rope drag. I'd recommend either soloing it or doing it in two. The second pitch however is totally first rate!

with Ann Marie Raikes
Egons Issy 07/Jun AltLd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
TobyA 06/Jun AltLd O/S

Was aiming to do Stennis Arete but missed the crack up the steep headwall, ended up finishing on this instead.

with Tom R
Mr. K 25/May Lead O/S
FlamehairedFrodo 25/May 2nd
dvincen6 16/May AltLd
with Lucy
Andrew will wilson ??/2015 -
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead
cdpuk 06/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Last one of the day. Lucy didn't like the look of the initial awkward step so we bailed and went to soak up what was left of the sun. Will return. First pitch probably needs splitting to reduce drag.

Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Roch 03/Aug/14 AltLd

Think we were a bit high on the traverse, but not high enough for maelstrom chimney. A quick abseil got us on route. Second pitch was awesome.

with Rob Slack
Tom F Harding 27/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ads 31/May/14 AltLd
with Julie
turnertactics 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

Overshot the belay ledge and had to down climb. Pleasant easy climbing. Doable in one pitch with 60m ropes.

Benjaminblanc ??/2014 -

Great climbing but I went too high on P1 and didn't protect well for the seconds. Would love to repeat.

Stuart William 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Ben belayed part way through the 1st pitch because of drag so I led the second half of the 1st pitch along with the 2nd pitch. Avoided the bank holiday crowds on the belay ledge since no-one else seemed to like the look of the start of the 2nd pitch and all decided to stick to various variations of Maelstrom Chimney.

with Ben F
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd
JP78 25/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
church465 06/May/13 2nd O/S
John Brayshaw 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Very enjoyable expedition. Did the variation on the wall right of the chimney.

with Erica
erica 05/May/13 2nd
with John
riddle 04/May/13 AltLd

Lead P1, rope drag nightmare.

with Derek
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
djelkin1992 22/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Nexonen 10/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Anne
Palindrome ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
luke glaister 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

What an first class route. as good as any sev ive done. Might even be hs just for the rough sea we had... great experance.

casey johns 14/Jul/12 2nd O/S

great belaying position. great climb great day

Hidden 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
AMJ098 07/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Lovely route - great views

Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
canis cibo 29/Aug/11 AltLd

Followed hedley on the traverse, lead pitch 2

with hedley
Kirill 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Charles Mason, Chris Donica
Hedley 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Doug Flute
Curly Rich 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S

good fun.

with GMC Claire, GMC JohnP
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd
mariannekhoo 26/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Tracey led P1, with lots of rope drag (unavoidable). I led P2. Interesting move to get off the arete and onto the slab for P2, should have been given a grade.

Babika 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Lovely route, great atmosphere with a big sea, but beats me how you can avoid massive rope drag on pitch 1 without upsetting the seconds too much on the traverse.....

with Charles Leek, Kiwi Pete
Stanners 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

At least it only took 3 hours! Rope getting court on rock left martin with 15m of slack and some other stuff went wrong. If your as retarded as us at multi-pitch climbing where you cant see the leader, just DWS the first pitch at high tide. 2nd pitch was great fun but more like VD with that amount of gear and jugs.

with Martin Stanfield
Stanley 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Cragking
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/11 AltLd
Lev 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Adam Coles ?/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
ben1987 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Wil.Hooke 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Leelogs 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with SCC
BALD EAGLE 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with R.Horler
erinbastian 27/Jun/10 Lead
with jacob phillips
martinp 12/Jun/10 2nd
with JohnC
cjohn62 12/Jun/10 AltLd
with martin
Stepanek 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

sucky traverse, but great chimney

with Louise Cowie
Rob84 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with Lou & Aled
Jess Christley 01/May/10 AltLd
with Alys Rook
dansmonkeytroubles 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Reaney
Bex_M 29/Aug/09 Lead dnf
with Astrid Saxby
Ed morris 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Dickon
Nigel R Lewis 25/Jul/09 AltLd
with Huw Rees
Hidden 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
nic42 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Jack
Cardi 26/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

What a gem! Traverse was exposed and atmospheric, (not sure the guidebook mentions this fully!) top pitch was in a fantastic position. Blue skies and crashing waves. Fantastic. Think me may have done a bit of Maelstrom Chimney at the top

with Ed H
Hidden 27/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
gareth r ?/Mar/06 -
with Martin
Geoffers ?/Oct/05 2nd O/S
with Tim
timreynolds 18/Sep/05 Lead
Hidden 01/May/05 Lead O/S
babymoac 28/Aug/04 AltLd
with Natasha Greer
victim of mathematics 05/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead
keefe 19/Apr/92 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 19/Apr/92 -
with keefe
Hidden 29/Apr/89 Solo
hazeysunshine ?/Jun/86 AltLd O/S
with Phil, Jane
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
atthedropofahat, Steveb27, Hidden, 1979dil, Wil.Hooke
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Votes cast 15
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