Stennis Chimney* S
70m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good trip which gains a ledge below the arete right of the big chimney by a long traverse. Considering the grade, a rope is advisable for this first pitch.
1) 40m. Descend from the end of the disappearing rock platform to and pick the easiest line leftwards, above the high tide line, to a ledge on the arete.
2) 30m. Climb left from the belay then move up onto the wall. Either move left into the corner and climb it or, better, climb the wall to the right of the corner. © ROCKFAX

FA. C.Mortlock 31.5.69 31/May/1969

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This climb is in 84 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Even with two ropes and loads of long extenders whenever necessary, it's still damn hard to properly protect the first pitch for your second without getting a stack of rope drag. I'd recommend either soloing it or doing it in two. The second pitch however is totally first rate!
MarkRoe - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/15 with Ann Marie Raikes

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jun/15

Was aiming to do Stennis Arete but missed the crack up the steep headwall, ended up finishing on this instead.
TobyA - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Tom R

Mr. K - Lead O/S - 25/May/15 with Elinor Young

FlamehairedFrodo - 2nd - 25/May/15 with Kyle Wood

dvincen6 - AltLd - 16/May/15 with Lucy

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - Lead - 27/Sep/14

Last one of the day. Lucy didn't like the look of the initial awkward step so we bailed and went to soak up what was left of the sun. Will return. First pitch probably needs splitting to reduce drag.
cdpuk - Lead dnf - 06/Sep/14 with Lucy Evans

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14

Think we were a bit high on the traverse, but not high enough for maelstrom chimney. A quick abseil got us on route. Second pitch was awesome.
Roch - AltLd - 03/Aug/14 with Rob Slack

Tom F Harding - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/14

ads - AltLd - 31/May/14 with Julie

Overshot the belay ledge and had to down climb. Pleasant easy climbing. Doable in one pitch with 60m ropes.
turnertactics - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14

Great climbing but I went too high on P1 and didn't protect well for the seconds. Would love to repeat.
Benjaminblanc - 2014

Ben belayed part way through the 1st pitch because of drag so I led the second half of the 1st pitch along with the 2nd pitch. Avoided the bank holiday crowds on the belay ledge since no-one else seemed to like the look of the start of the 2nd pitch and all decided to stick to various variations of Maelstrom Chimney.
Stuart William - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Ben F

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Aug/13

JP78 - Lead - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13

church465 - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13

Very enjoyable expedition. Did the variation on the wall right of the chimney.
John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Erica

erica - 2nd - 05/May/13 with John

Lead P1, rope drag nightmare.
riddle - AltLd - 04/May/13 with Derek

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

Hidden - 2013

djelkin1992 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/12

Nexonen - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Anne

Palindrome - 2nd O/S - Aug/12

What an first class route. as good as any sev ive done. Might even be hs just for the rough sea we had... great experance.
luke glaister - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with casey johns

great belaying position. great climb great day
casey johns - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/12 with luke glaister

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12

Lovely route - great views
AMJ098 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

Followed hedley on the traverse, lead pitch 2
canis cibo - AltLd - 29/Aug/11 with hedley

Kirill - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Charles Mason, Chris Donica

Hedley - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Doug Flute

good fun.
Curly Rich - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with GMC Claire, GMC JohnP

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/11

Tracey led P1, with lots of rope drag (unavoidable). I led P2. Interesting move to get off the arete and onto the slab for P2, should have been given a grade.
mariannekhoo - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/11 with Tracey Tomlin

Lovely route, great atmosphere with a big sea, but beats me how you can avoid massive rope drag on pitch 1 without upsetting the seconds too much on the traverse.....
Babika - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Charles Leek, Kiwi Pete

At least it only took 3 hours! Rope getting court on rock left martin with 15m of slack and some other stuff went wrong. If your as retarded as us at multi-pitch climbing where you cant see the leader, just DWS the first pitch at high tide. 2nd pitch was great fun but more like VD with that amount of gear and jugs.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Martin Stanfield

Stanley - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Cragking

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Apr/11

Lev - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Emma Ross

Adam Coles - AltLd O/S - Mar/11 with ben park

ben1987 - Lead O/S - 2011 with Adam Coles

Wil.Hooke - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10

Leelogs - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with SCC

BALD EAGLE - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with R.Horler

erinbastian - Lead - 27/Jun/10 with jacob phillips

martinp - 2nd - 12/Jun/10 with JohnC

cjohn62 - AltLd - 12/Jun/10 with martin

sucky traverse, but great chimney
Stepanek - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Louise Cowie

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 01/May/10 with Lou & Aled

Jess Christley - AltLd - 01/May/10 with Alys Rook

dansmonkeytroubles - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Dave Reaney

Bex_M - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/09 with Astrid Saxby

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/09 with Dickon

Nigel R Lewis - AltLd - 25/Jul/09 with Huw Rees

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/May/09

nic42 - AltLd O/S - 03/May/09 with Jack

What a gem! Traverse was exposed and atmospheric, (not sure the guidebook mentions this fully!) top pitch was in a fantastic position. Blue skies and crashing waves. Fantastic. Think me may have done a bit of Maelstrom Chimney at the top
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Ed H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/07

gareth r - Mar/06 with Martin

Geoffers - 2nd O/S - Oct/05 with Tim

timreynolds - Lead - 18/Sep/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/05

babymoac - AltLd - 28/Aug/04 with Natasha Greer

victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/04 with Sam Ring

Hidden - Lead - Aug/02

keefe - 19/Apr/92 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - 19/Apr/92 with keefe

Hidden - Solo - 29/Apr/89

hazeysunshine - AltLd O/S - Jun/86 with Phil, Jane

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
atthedropofahat, Steveb27, 1979dil, Wil.Hooke

Total votes cast 30
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S12 of 15
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S