Pembrokeshire > Stennis Head >
 
Stennis Chimney* S

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Maelstrom Chimney >>
70m, 2 pitches. A good trip which gains a ledge below the arete right of the big chimney by a long traverse. Considering the grade, a rope is advisable for this first pitch. 1) 40m. Descend from the end of the disappearing rock platform to and pick the easiest line leftwards, above the high tide line, to a ledge on the arete. 2) 30m. Climb left from the belay then move up onto the wall. Either move left into the corner and climb it or, better, climb the wall to the right of the corner. © ROCKFAX
FA. C.Mortlock 31.5.69 31/May/1969

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 76 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Last one of the day. Lucy didn't like the look of the initial awkward step so we bailed and went to soak up what was left of the sun. Will return. First pitch probably needs splitting to reduce drag.
cdpuk - Lead dnf - 06/Sep/14 with Lucy Evans

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14

Think we were a bit high on the traverse, but not high enough for maelstrom chimney. A quick abseil got us on route. Second pitch was awesome.
Roch - AltLd - 03/Aug/14 with Rob Slack

Tom F Harding - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/14

ads - AltLd - 31/May/14 with Julie

Overshot the belay ledge and had to down climb. Pleasant easy climbing. Doable in one pitch with 60m ropes.
turnertactics - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14

Great climbing but I went too high on P1 and didn't protect well for the seconds. Would love to repeat.
Benjaminblanc - 2014

Ben belayed part way through the 1st pitch because of drag so I led the second half of the 1st pitch along with the 2nd pitch. Avoided the bank holiday crowds on the belay ledge since no-one else seemed to like the look of the start of the 2nd pitch and all decided to stick to various variations of Maelstrom Chimney.
Stuart William - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Ben F

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Aug/13

JP78 - Lead - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13

church465 - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13

Very enjoyable expedition. Did the variation on the wall right of the chimney.
John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Erica

erica - 2nd - 05/May/13 with John

Lead P1, rope drag nightmare.
riddle - AltLd - 04/May/13 with Derek

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

Hidden - 2013

djelkin1992 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/12

Nexonen - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Anne

Palindrome - 2nd O/S - Aug/12

What an first class route. as good as any sev ive done. Might even be hs just for the rough sea we had... great experance.
luke glaister - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with casey johns

great belaying position. great climb great day
casey johns - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/12 with luke glaister

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12

Lovely route - great views
AMJ098 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

Followed hedley on the traverse, lead pitch 2
canis cibo - AltLd - 29/Aug/11 with hedley

Kirill - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Charles Mason, Chris Donica

Hedley - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Doug Flute

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/11

Tracey led P1, with lots of rope drag (unavoidable). I led P2. Interesting move to get off the arete and onto the slab for P2, should have been given a grade.
mariannekhoo - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/11 with Tracey Tomlin

Lovely route, great atmosphere with a big sea, but beats me how you can avoid massive rope drag on pitch 1 without upsetting the seconds too much on the traverse.....
Babika - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Charles Leek, Kiwi Pete

At least it only took 3 hours! Rope getting court on rock left martin with 15m of slack and some other stuff went wrong. If your as retarded as us at multi-pitch climbing where you cant see the leader, just DWS the first pitch at high tide. 2nd pitch was great fun but more like VD with that amount of gear and jugs.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Martin Stanfield

Stanley - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Cragking

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Apr/11

Lev - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Emma Ross

Adam Coles - AltLd O/S - Mar/11 with ben park

ben1987 - Lead O/S - 2011 with Adam Coles

Wil.Hooke - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10

Leelogs - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with SCC

BALD EAGLE - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with R.Horler

erinbastian - Lead - 27/Jun/10 with jacob phillips

martinp - 2nd - 12/Jun/10 with JohnC

cjohn62 - AltLd - 12/Jun/10 with martin

sucky traverse, but great chimney
Stepanek - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Louise Cowie

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 01/May/10 with Lou & Aled

Jess Christley - AltLd - 01/May/10 with Alys Rook

dansmonkeytroubles - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Dave Reaney

Bex_M - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/09 with Astrid Saxby

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/09 with Dickon

Nigel R Lewis - AltLd - 25/Jul/09 with Huw Rees

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/May/09

nic42 - AltLd O/S - 03/May/09 with Jack

What a gem! Traverse was exposed and atmospheric, (not sure the guidebook mentions this fully!) top pitch was in a fantastic position. Blue skies and crashing waves. Fantastic. Think me may have done a bit of Maelstrom Chimney at the top
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Ed H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/07

gareth r - Mar/06 with Martin

Geoffers - 2nd O/S - Oct/05 with Tim

timreynolds - Lead - 18/Sep/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/05

babymoac - AltLd - 28/Aug/04 with Natasha Greer

victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/04 with Sam Ring

Hidden - Lead - Aug/02

keefe - 19/Apr/92 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - 19/Apr/92 with keefe

Hidden - Solo - 29/Apr/89

hazeysunshine - AltLd O/S - Jun/86 with Phil, Jane

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
atthedropofahat, Steveb27, Hidden, 1979dil, Wil.Hooke

Voting
Total votes cast 28
hard HS0 of 14
HS0 of 14
easy HS0 of 14
hard S1 of 14
S12 of 14
easy S0 of 14
hard HVD0 of 14
HVD1 of 14
easy HVD0 of 14
3 Stars6 of 14
2 Stars5 of 14
1 Star1 of 14
0 Stars2 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 76 (1.3%)
Lead30 of 76 (39.5%)
Followed13 of 76 (17.1%)
Alt Leads27 of 76 (35.5%)
Unknown5 of 76 (6.6%)

'Climbed'25 of 76 (32.9%)
clean O/S49 of 76 (64.5%)
dnf2 of 76 (2.6%)