Stennis Arete** HS 4b
[the traverse into stennis arete, 2 kb]70m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superbly-positioned route up the prominent arete.
1) 40m. As for pitch one of Stennis Chimney (originally the first pitch followed an artificial traverse line above this).
2) 4b, 30m. Climb grooves above the belay up leftwards to the base of Maelstrom Chimney. Step right and climb a crack in the arete to the top. © ROCKFAX

FA. C.Mortlock 31.5.69 31/May/1969

Ticklists: Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe.

Photo: the traverse into stennis arete © schristophersmith
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 141 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Ellie lead to the crack and I did to the top. Hard for HS, felt solid 4c.
spidermonkey09 - AltLd - 06/Sep/14 with Ellie Fuller

solo traversed in - Scary. Lead up to crack where it become unexpectedly hard, definitely 4c moves.
Ella7 - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Jim Hulbert

clairemathews - 2nd - 29/Aug/14 with Martin Bagshaw

With 40mph gusts at a guess, the second pitch was some scary stuff. Took a much higher line that I should have on the first, only finding out so about five metres before the belay, but on the plus side, we didn't get washed into the sea!
Martin Bagshaw - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/14 with Claire Mathews

I did 2nd pitch, very steep for grade. Saw a sea king circling nearby.
jamie d - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/14

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 20/Aug/14 with Clare

Adam C led P1, JH P2, AC finished with P3 up Maelstrom Chimney (finishing line up arete not clear and slightly cramped climbing as 3)
adam clarke - AltLd dnf - 20/Jul/14 with Adam Lynch, James Hulme

Welly Matt - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14

GDS - 2nd - 14/Jun/14 with harry

First pitch twice, there are back, didn't do the second pitch due to rain!
EmilyElouise - AltLd dnf - 01/Jun/14 with Rose

Couldn't find the route over the upper arete & had to move over the the left.
turnertactics - Lead O/S - 31/May/14

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Harry Martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/14

Matt250 - 2nd O/S - 24/May/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/May/14

Hidden - AltLd - 18/May/14

John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Erica

erica - 2nd - 04/May/14 with John

john max - AltLd - 19/Apr/14 with Jen Maxfield

Lead pitch 1.5 Great position
althesin - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Reds, schristophersmith

lead the traverse but went too high and had to reverse back and dowb climb to correct line before belaying and swapping lead wityh silas to belay ledge below the arete
schristophersmith - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with silas feaver, Ian Redfern

Went off route at the top and messed it up
Reds - AltLd dog - 22/Sep/13 with Althesin, schristophersmith

Siobhan McGowan - 2nd - 26/Aug/13

AMJ098 - Lead - 24/Aug/13 with Fran coles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Aug/13

andrea83 - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Hamish

Hamish777 - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Andrea

I led P1, crappy traverse! James led P2 Excellent route, good exposure
GStone - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with James Rose

mikecollins - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/13 with Laura D

mikecollins - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/13 with Laura D

adrian perera - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Pierce Ferris

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jun/13

Lead pitch 2, adventurous for the grade
Andrew23 - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Dominic Arnold

danieleaston - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Saz

P1 traverse then top half of p3 after rope drag meant extra belay. . Sharp lime!
saz_b - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Dan Easton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13

maddy92 - AltLd - 09/Jun/13

steve-grigg - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13

guy757 - 06/Jun/13

dave657 - AltLd O/S - 18/May/13 with Alys

I lead the traverse, Paul the arete. Was freezing cold on belay. Paul decided to take Severe line to the left as Arete wasn't an obvious line.
lyneux - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13 with Paul Clarkson

cvsephton - 2nd - 05/May/13 with Rob, Justine

Hidden - Lead - 04/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 04/May/13

fizzychewitt - AltLd - 04/May/13 with Ali, Jayne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12

We appear to have followed a slightly different line at the top.
stuaart - 2nd - 23/Aug/12 with Thomas Smith

thomasaneurinsmith - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Stuart Reeves

P2, got off route at the top onto the overhanging side (left) of the block. Very nice up there, probably quite a bit harder than HS but protection is possible, and quite a lot of fun.
jayrenegade - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/12 with Prav

After soloing the traverse in above a big sea
Sankey - 2nd - 11/Aug/12 with Ed

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12

philboy - AltLd - 06/Aug/12 with matt g

LakesWinter - AltLd - 06/Aug/12 with Phil B

Palindrome - 2nd O/S - Aug/12

nickdonohue - AltLd - Aug/12 with Emma Grant

Ab start to P2. Went into Maelstrom Chimney Sev 4a
Tim Rodgers - Lead - 04/Jun/12 with Mike Lea

Jones_88 - 2nd - 04/Jun/12

adam06 - Lead - 04/Jun/12 with Wyn Jones

msoldn - 2nd O/S - 20/May/12 with Thomasina

Hung over. Ade had difficulty finding the traverse, then I went off route on the arete and lost my head. Too much beer and red wine the night before. Finished up Stennis chimney
bigglesbutcha - AltLd dnf - 19/May/12 with Paul Horabin, Ade

kiks - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12

Great position but very hard for HS.
HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Luke Watts

Hidden - Lead - 08/Apr/12

Julie Carroll - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Tristan Graham

melonmike - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Tim

tlmarjot - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Mikey Richmond

screwed up the traverse, one piece of gear not extended and hello ropedrag; the following pitch was exciting
GermanAlex - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/12

turdburglar - 2012

turdburglar - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11

Leelogs - 2nd - 27/Aug/11 with SCC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11

I Led traverse (S)
williap - AltLd O/S - 02/May/11 with Dik

Lead second pitch. Overhang made it feel a bit stiff for HS but well protected.
johnpuddephatt - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Will Hunt

Lead approach pitch. Second pitch so steep!
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with John Puddephatt

excellent moves out rightwards
Edd Reed - 2nd - 28/Apr/11 with Pat Lowman, Martin Allen

With steep and exposed alternative (?) right fininsh
mountain.martin - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11

Led first pitch until about 5 metres from belay as too much rope drag, the proceeded to get hit by waves.
Dave89 - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Gabby

P1 Dave, P2 Rowan
Rowan Mitchell - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Apr/11

More like V.S - moving to the right, not the left is the legit way-though the wall under the overhang was stamina-sapping!
themadbrown - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/11 with james

3rd time I've done route, scary HS!
Jams Crwca - Lead rpt - 14/Mar/11 with themadbrown

Did half the high traverse (as for Maelstrom Chimney) but holds were wet, moves felt stiff for 4a and waves were getting higher and higher, huge breakers with spray reaching me ...backed off. Will return.
The Ivanator - Lead dnf - 26/Feb/11 with Toby

cheesey959 - TR - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10

MarkCunnington - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Anna Morris

Brannock - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

Bypassed steep bit via short section of Maelstrom Chimney after standing above the little roof and deciding the exposure was too much for the last route of the holiday. Stepped back across to finish on the arete. Amazing position, will be back to do it properly when I'm stronger on steep stuff!
kitkat78 - AltLd - 30/Aug/10 with SteveM

Hidden - 2nd β - 30/Aug/10

SteveM - AltLd - 30/Aug/10 with Kat

I led (or rather dragged the rope around) the traverse pitch. Would be better to do this just moving together rather than pitching it as it is only Mod/Diff at best. Lots of rope drag! P2 was pretty spectacular. Dave took a direct and slightly overhanging line at the top, which felt more like VS than HS. The wall at the start of P2 was quite steep and tricky too.
CathS - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Dave Clark

Led the buttress
MD - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Paul H

led 2nd pitch - short of time so took easist route with long run outs
DaNo123 - AltLd - 29/Aug/10 with steve, em

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/10

rd20 - 2nd - 28/Aug/10 with Loic

I led the traverse pitch. Keith led the Arete.
lucasp - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with keith lmc

Different Steve - 2nd - 28/Aug/10 with Emma Hawkins, Dan

went a bit off-route near the top, then had to reverse as it felt more like HVS. Finished instead up to the left
hazeysunshine - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Dave

Paul had the traverse, spent ages stuck behind incompetents.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Paul Lucas

Soloed the traverse pitch. Nice climbing.
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Jon

Climbed the left side of the arete (keeping to the right of Maelstrom Chimney) at about HS, but looking easier than the right hand line.
Jonny M - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Victim of Maths

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10

Hmm. Spent abotu 4 hrs on this, which was fine today as it's a stunning spot, and the weather was gorgeous. A good easy grade adventure route. Traverse round head not obvious route at all, took a while. Then climb up arete also not obvious and Rockfax guide seems to send you up what looks like a greasy overhanging vague crack. But easier ways to top abound so not problem. Views of Pleasure Dome wall to the left are awesome.
manwithacam - AltLd - 09/Aug/10 with Dave G

Not a bona fide tick - finished up Maelstrom Chimney due to uncertainty as to the route (which the Rockfax topo sent up a horrible greasy overhang) and painful climbing shoes in the heat. Fantastic situation though.
Blisco - AltLd - 08/Aug/10 with Dan Metcalfe

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/10

Julian Prieto - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10 with Helen Kirby, Steve Wales

Jams Crwca - Lead β - 09/May/10 with Martin

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/10

Amazing position on the upper arete at the grade - highly recommended!
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 01/May/10 with Lou & Aled

irish paul - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Sarah Joyce

Byronius Maximus - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Alex Twist

Did a more direct finish up the overhanging prow on the second pitch instead of moving off left. In part this was because of directions given by Byron, but also because it allowed a superb combination of heel hooks, rock-overs finger locks and exposure!
Twisty - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Byron Buck

ollyhorst - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Tom Boeckx

Leads - Andrew 1st Rich 2nd. second pitch finished to left rather than the arete.
Tim W - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Rich P, Andrew Davidson

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/09

almost my first ever multipitch but couldnt hear eachother round the first corner so climbed the first pitch with carrying the rope bunched on my shoulder.
Pete Scott - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/09 with Tom Blight

2nd pitch only.
Nigel R Lewis - Lead - 25/Jul/09 with Huw Rees

Hidden - 2nd - 02/May/09

it was everything i expected it to be
Kirill - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Paul Bolton

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 11/Apr/09

thomb - Lead - 2009 with Pete

backed off, couldn't handle the exposure, will come back when feel braver
Kirill - Lead dnf - 23/Aug/08 with Mark O'Neil

lindsam - 20/Jul/08 with Jos Style

One of those must do again routes every time I go to Pembroke-love the scramble round and all the water worn limestone chicken heads.
Ann S - Lead rpt - Aug/07 with John Carlin

drysori - 2007

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/May/06

Geoffers - Lead O/S - Oct/05 with Tim

timreynolds - Lead - 20/Sep/03

Hidden - Lead - Aug/02

babymoac - Lead - 04/May/02 with Capesy

cem - Lead O/S - 03/May/98 with Stephanie Roberts

Hidden - 1996

First climb on my first trip to Pembroke
Tony Buckley - Mar/87 with Richard Brockman

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
atthedropofahat, Steveb27, Red Rover, 1979dil, Hedley, Luke Jones, Leelogs, Dan Lane, Ceridwen

Total votes cast 84
hard VS1 of 28
VS1 of 28
easy VS10 of 28
hard HS13 of 28
HS3 of 28
easy HS0 of 28
hard S0 of 28
S0 of 28
easy S0 of 28
hard 4c1 of 29
4c1 of 29
easy 4c12 of 29
hard 4b11 of 29
4b3 of 29
easy 4b0 of 29
hard 4a1 of 29
4a0 of 29
easy 4a0 of 29
3 Stars13 of 27
2 Stars12 of 27
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat