70m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superbly-positioned route up the prominent arete.
1) 40m. As for pitch one of Stennis Chimney (originally the first pitch followed an artificial traverse line above this).
2) 4b, 30m. Climb grooves above the belay up leftwards to the base of Maelstrom Chimney. Step right and climb a crack in the arete to the top. © Rockfax

FA. C.Mortlock 31/May/1969

Ticklists: Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, Pembroke VDiff-HVS, Orange Spot Pembroke.


ClimberDateStyle
GStone 18/Sep AltLd
with Steve Senior, Gordon
Bob M 01/Sep Lead

High traverse in as for Maelstrom Chimney

stevelismore 30/Aug Lead O/S

Great adventure traversing into the unknown. Second pitch not hard but a fall would mean being impaled on the needles-not nice!

with Peak Charlotte
anthony.mayne 14/Aug AltLd O/S

Lead the first pitch. May have taken a detour on the second pitch as we weren't quite sure of the line.

with Svet
matt1024 14/Aug AltLd O/S

Led top pitch. Quite committing/exposed at the grade!

with Pete Uhe, Mark Stevenson
Francois R 07/Aug Lead

5-. Deserves 3 stars for the setting! The traverse to reach the start of the route is easy, I do not recommend using the rope there to avoid rope drag.

with Pok
Nick Russell 06/Aug AltLd O/S

Got a bit lost on this. Emily led up to the roof but neither guidebook (CC or Rockfax) give an adequate description of the top section. I led through the overhangs direct (felt more like E2 5b), but suspect that there is a more reasonable line starting up the left of the arete then stepping back right *above* the roof to finish in an exposed position.

with Emily
Emily 06/Aug AltLd O/S

Abseiled in to the start of the second pitch, which I attempted to lead. It was all going well till I got lost and confused below the overhang, which looked a lot harder than I wanted to lead. Nick ended up leading the top. Glad I didn't try it as it seemed a lot harder than HS 4b.

with Nick
Fraser hill-casey 31/Jul AltLd O/S

Got a bit lost on the bottom and turned it into three pitches

partz 30/Jul Lead O/S

May have gone up the wrong crack - felt a bit stiff for HS. Good outing still

Chris Sansum 16/Jul AltLd O/S

Ewan p1 (soaking wet!), Chris p2.

with Ewan Whitmey
TimKnight 02/Jul AltLd O/S

Led P2 (well 3 in our case)

markalmack 02/Jul Solo O/S
WB 02/Jul Solo O/S
Joemanglerocks 02/Jul AltLd

Messed up the traverse approach, turned it all into a 4 pitch wonder!

Hidden 30/May 2nd
Sarah Jenkins 29/May 2nd
with alex pickard
d.heard 29/May 2nd
Hidden 29/May 2nd
steve_gibbs 29/May Lead O/S
with Anouk Spelt
Anouk Spelt 29/May Lead
Hidden 29/May 2nd
mky77 29/May 2nd
Hidden 24/Apr Lead O/S
chrismadar 27/Feb Lead O/S

Started this towards the end of the day, initial traverse section was quite hard to follow - possibly started from the wrong ledge so had to do 1st pitch in two parts. Tide was coming in and was getting dark by last pitch. To top it off when coming to the top of the last pitch one of the ropes got caught under a spike 10m below me and had to untie in order to top out (in the dark); thankfully in time for Kate not to drown. All in all, a pretty awesome adventure.

kateharborne 27/Feb 2nd
ianstevens 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, topo in the Rockfax is next to useless for the upper section.

neuromancer 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Rockfax says start in the tiny groove; very mean for the short and uncomfortable for 4b. Secondly; description in guide is next to useless; as evidenced by none of the photographs showing anyone actually climbing "the overhanging crack" - which was covered in black, full of small underclings and generally not really fitting for HS.

efp 26/Sep/15 AltLd
joem 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
FlavioL1989 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
rajeshwarbisht 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
staceyjg 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Soloed the first pitch to the base of the arÍte, climbing seemed a little tough at the top for a HS.

FelixL 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Abseiled down and climbed 2nd pitch only. Went straight up on the 'roofy' overhang. Felt pretty strenuous for HS, especially under the rain...

with Sarah
amccann 28/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Manchi 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Split P1 into two; I led first half, Tim led second half (minimised rope drag). I led P2; went off route past overhang but stepped back to finish on arete. Scary!

with tim_mcd
tim_mcd 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Manchi
DanChad 06/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led the traverse pitch. Rope drag was a nightmare.

Le Chevalier Mal Fet 06/Aug/15 AltLd

Contender for my route of the year. Led P2 above rough sea. While setting up a belay below p2 a huge freak wave drenched me and the start of p2 which added spice.Tried to finish the pitch up the right crack, but moved left up the left overhanging crack as the right looked awful. (If this route is hs, Blue Sky is severe and Myola is a HVD)

Hidden ?/Aug/15 AltLd
J_joewhite ?/Aug/15 Lead
Keith Swainson 25/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Matt Levick
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Steveb27 18/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jul/15 AltLd
jammy4536 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
catty_9 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Route finding on the traverse is tough and we ended up escaping left up the severe to finish as the moves round to the right are very pumpy

Angrypenguin 07/Jun/15 Lead dog

Fell on overhang halfway up second pitch. Escaped to the left up the chimney.

with Cat
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead O/S
Neil Henson 24/May/15 AltLd
with Jon
Adamski1986 24/May/15 AltLd O/S
chancer 23/May/15 Lead O/S

The topo is mis-leading at the top.

with Jason Wood
cameron_hall 16/May/15 Lead O/S

Continued up Maelstrom Chimney for longer than suggested because I wasn't sure I was in the right place and didn't want to end up on something too hard!

with Luke Doherty
David Kay 10/Apr/15 2nd
Moritz L 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S

great climbing

stub1990 ??/2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
spidermonkey09 06/Sep/14 AltLd

Ellie lead to the crack and I did to the top. Hard for HS, felt solid 4c.

Hidden 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
clairemathews 29/Aug/14 2nd
Martin Bagshaw 29/Aug/14 Lead O/S

With 40mph gusts at a guess, the second pitch was some scary stuff. Took a much higher line that I should have on the first, only finding out so about five metres before the belay, but on the plus side, we didn't get washed into the sea!

jamie d 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

I did 2nd pitch, very steep for grade. Saw a sea king circling nearby.

Hidden 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Steve Lenartowicz 20/Aug/14 Lead
with Clare
adam clarke 20/Jul/14 AltLd dnf

Adam C led P1, JH P2, AC finished with P3 up Maelstrom Chimney (finishing line up arete not clear and slightly cramped climbing as 3)

with Adam Lynch, James Hulme
Welly Matt 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
GDS 14/Jun/14 2nd
with harry
EmilyElouise 01/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

First pitch twice, there are back, didn't do the second pitch due to rain!

with Rose
turnertactics 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Couldn't find the route over the upper arete & had to move over the the left.

tobydunford 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Hidden 24/May/14 Lead O/S
Matt250 24/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/May/14 AltLd
John Brayshaw 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Erica
erica 04/May/14 2nd
with John
john max 19/Apr/14 AltLd
with Jen Maxfield
althesin 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1.5 Great position

schristophersmith 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

lead the traverse but went too high and had to reverse back and dowb climb to correct line before belaying and swapping lead wityh silas to belay ledge below the arete

Reds 22/Sep/13 AltLd dog

Went off route at the top and messed it up

Siobhan McGowan 26/Aug/13 2nd
AMJ098 24/Aug/13 Lead
with Fran coles
Hidden 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Nevil 22/Aug/13 AltLd
with Mike
Hidden 22/Aug/13 AltLd
andrea83 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Hamish
Hamish777 20/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Andrea
GStone 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I led P1, crappy traverse! James led P2 Excellent route, good exposure

mikecollins 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
mikecollins 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
adrian perera 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Pierce Ferris
Hidden 29/Jun/13 AltLd
Andrew23 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2, adventurous for the grade

with Dominic Arnold
danieleaston 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Saz
saz_b 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

P1 traverse then top half of p3 after rope drag meant extra belay. . Sharp lime!

FrenchOlly 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
maddy92 09/Jun/13 AltLd
steve-grigg 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
guy757 06/Jun/13 -
Hidden 18/May/13 AltLd O/S
lyneux 05/May/13 AltLd O/S

I lead the traverse, Paul the arete. Was freezing cold on belay. Paul decided to take Severe line to the left as Arete wasn't an obvious line.

with Paul Clarkson
cvsephton 05/May/13 2nd
with Rob, Justine
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead
Hidden 04/May/13 2nd
fizzychewitt 04/May/13 AltLd
with Ali, Jayne
Bryan M 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Susannah Penk
Hidden ?/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
stuaart 23/Aug/12 2nd

We appear to have followed a slightly different line at the top.

thomasaneurinsmith 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Stuart Reeves
jayrenegade 21/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

P2, got off route at the top onto the overhanging side (left) of the block. Very nice up there, probably quite a bit harder than HS but protection is possible, and quite a lot of fun.

with Prav
Sankey 11/Aug/12 2nd

After soloing the traverse in above a big sea

with Ed
Hidden 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
philboy 06/Aug/12 AltLd
with matt g
Hidden 06/Aug/12 AltLd
Palindrome ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Aug/12 AltLd
with Emma Grant
Tim Rodgers 04/Jun/12 Lead

Ab start to P2. Went into Maelstrom Chimney Sev 4a

Jones_88 04/Jun/12 2nd
adam06 04/Jun/12 Lead
msoldn 20/May/12 2nd O/S
with Thomasina
bigglesbutcha 19/May/12 AltLd dnf

Hung over. Ade had difficulty finding the traverse, then I went off route on the arete and lost my head. Too much beer and red wine the night before. Finished up Stennis chimney

with Paul Horabin, Ade
kiks 06/May/12 2nd O/S
HIGHTOWER 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great position but very hard for HS.

with Luke Watts
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead
Julie Carroll 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Tristan Graham
melonmike 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Tim
tlmarjot 06/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Mikey Richmond
GermanAlex 11/Feb/12 Lead O/S

screwed up the traverse, one piece of gear not extended and hello ropedrag; the following pitch was exciting

turdburglar ??/2012 -
turdburglar ??/2012 -
Hidden 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Leelogs 27/Aug/11 2nd
with SCC
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
williap 02/May/11 AltLd O/S

I Led traverse (S)

with Dik
johnpuddephatt 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch. Overhang made it feel a bit stiff for HS but well protected.

Will Hunt 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Lead approach pitch. Second pitch so steep!

Edd Reed 28/Apr/11 2nd

excellent moves out rightwards

with Pat Lowman, Martin Allen
mountain.martin 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S

With steep and exposed alternative (?) right fininsh

Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Dave89 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch until about 5 metres from belay as too much rope drag, the proceeded to get hit by waves.

with Gabby
Rowan Mitchell 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

P1 Dave, P2 Rowan

Hidden 09/Apr/11 AltLd
themadbrown 14/Mar/11 2nd O/S

More like V.S - moving to the right, not the left is the legit way-though the wall under the overhang was stamina-sapping!

with james
Jams Crwca 14/Mar/11 Lead rpt

3rd time I've done route, scary HS!

The Ivanator 26/Feb/11 Lead dnf

Did half the high traverse (as for Maelstrom Chimney) but holds were wet, moves felt stiff for 4a and waves were getting higher and higher, huge breakers with spray reaching me ...backed off. Will return.

with Toby
cheesey959 ??/2011 TR
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
MarkCunnington 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Brannock 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
kitkat78 30/Aug/10 AltLd

Bypassed steep bit via short section of Maelstrom Chimney after standing above the little roof and deciding the exposure was too much for the last route of the holiday. Stepped back across to finish on the arete. Amazing position, will be back to do it properly when I'm stronger on steep stuff!

with SteveM
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd β
SteveM 30/Aug/10 AltLd
with Kat
CathS 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

I led (or rather dragged the rope around) the traverse pitch. Would be better to do this just moving together rather than pitching it as it is only Mod/Diff at best. Lots of rope drag! P2 was pretty spectacular. Dave took a direct and slightly overhanging line at the top, which felt more like VS than HS. The wall at the start of P2 was quite steep and tricky too.

with Dave Clark
MD 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led the buttress

with Paul H
DaNo123 29/Aug/10 AltLd

led 2nd pitch - short of time so took easist route with long run outs

with steve, em
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead
Pay Attention 29/Aug/10 AltLd
with MD
rd20 28/Aug/10 2nd
with Loic
lucasp 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

I led the traverse pitch. Keith led the Arete.

with keith lmc
Different Steve 28/Aug/10 2nd
with Emma Hawkins, Dan
hazeysunshine 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

went a bit off-route near the top, then had to reverse as it felt more like HVS. Finished instead up to the left

with Dave
KeithW 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Paul had the traverse, spent ages stuck behind incompetents.

with Paul Lucas
Julesthe1st 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Paul Wolf
victim of mathematics 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Soloed the traverse pitch. Nice climbing.

with Jon
Jonny M 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Climbed the left side of the arete (keeping to the right of Maelstrom Chimney) at about HS, but looking easier than the right hand line.

Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S
manwithacam 09/Aug/10 AltLd

Hmm. Spent abotu 4 hrs on this, which was fine today as it's a stunning spot, and the weather was gorgeous. A good easy grade adventure route. Traverse round head not obvious route at all, took a while. Then climb up arete also not obvious and Rockfax guide seems to send you up what looks like a greasy overhanging vague crack. But easier ways to top abound so not problem. Views of Pleasure Dome wall to the left are awesome.

with Dave G
Blisco 08/Aug/10 AltLd

Not a bona fide tick - finished up Maelstrom Chimney due to uncertainty as to the route (which the Rockfax topo sent up a horrible greasy overhang) and painful climbing shoes in the heat. Fantastic situation though.

Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Colin Struthers
Julian Prieto 31/May/10 2nd O/S
with Helen Kirby, Steve Wales
Jams Crwca 09/May/10 Lead β
with Martin
Hidden 03/May/10 2nd
Rob84 01/May/10 Lead O/S

Amazing position on the upper arete at the grade - highly recommended!

with Lou & Aled
irish paul 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Byronius Maximus 04/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Twisty 04/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Did a more direct finish up the overhanging prow on the second pitch instead of moving off left. In part this was because of directions given by Byron, but also because it allowed a superb combination of heel hooks, rock-overs finger locks and exposure!

with Byron Buck
ollyhorst 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Tom Boeckx
Tim W 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Leads - Andrew 1st Rich 2nd. second pitch finished to left rather than the arete.

with Rich P, Andrew Davidson
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead
Pete Scott 25/Aug/09 Lead O/S

almost my first ever multipitch but couldnt hear eachother round the first corner so climbed the first pitch with carrying the rope bunched on my shoulder.

thomb 25/Aug/09 2nd
with Pete
Nigel R Lewis 25/Jul/09 Lead

2nd pitch only.

with Huw Rees
Hidden 02/May/09 2nd
Kirill 02/May/09 Lead O/S

it was everything i expected it to be

Hidden 12/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead
thomb ??/2009 Lead
with Pete
Kirill 23/Aug/08 Lead dnf

backed off, couldn't handle the exposure, will come back when feel braver

lindsam 20/Jul/08 -
with Jos Style
drysori ??/2007 -
Hidden 28/May/06 2nd O/S
Geoffers ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Tim
timreynolds 20/Sep/03 Lead
with Mike Henesy, Martin Hoather
mikehenesy 20/Sep/03 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead
babymoac 04/May/02 Lead
with Capesy
cem 03/May/98 Lead O/S
with Stephanie Roberts
Hidden ??/1996 -
Tony Buckley ?/Mar/87 -

First climb on my first trip to Pembroke

with Richard Brockman
14 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 39
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set