UKC

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A very nice crag with a popular non-tidal upper tier and well-featured rock.

There is a large colony of Herring Gulls which are now on the "red list" of endangered species in the UK, on the mid-height ledge in Spring - early summer,  climbers are requested to avoid this section (see details below) as there is now an agreed seasonal restriction on this venue.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are likely to be a number of gulls and chicks during the nesting season on the half-way ledge of B-Team Buttress. At least 18 pairs of Herring gulls are known to nest here, making it one of the most important single sites for Herring gulls on this coastline. Please avoid during 1st March to 31st July.  Routes affected are: 'Cloud Nine, Hang Ten' to 'CDM' on lower tier (routes 6-11 in CC guide) and 'Snap, Popple and Crack' to 'The Jogger' on the upper tier (routes 16-28).  The gulls would make the climbing experience fairly unpleasant so better to choose another crag at this time of year. 

(There are also agreed seasonal restrictions on the adjacent crag of Seaside Gully - see details under this crag)

26m.

Rockfax Description
Start at the left-hand side of the main cave. Pull up onto a small ledge above the undercut base on the left. Follow a crack above which leads to a groove and the top. © Rockfax

FA. W.Lounds, P.Lucas, I.Dobson 27/Aug/1984.

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Guidebooks for Crickmail Point

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 5
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bohemian Bubblebath

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Penally East)

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