Fitzcarraldo** E5 6a
[Gus Hudgins on Fitzcarraldo, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
This popular E5 has a hard start and a bold finish. Start just left of Shape-Up below some pockets and cracks. Climb these and the easier flakes above to the overlap. Move left below the old peg and then up to the next overlap. Fill this full of gear, pause for a long time, and then climb direct to the top. © ROCKFAX

FA. G.Gibson 8.4.83 08/Apr/1983

Ticklists: Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Photo: Gus Hudgins on Fitzcarraldo © Will Nicholls
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This climb is in 52 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/15

Found this really hard work!
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 25/May/15 with Duncan Campbell

Tricky little number!
Duncan Campbell - 2nd rpt - 25/May/15 with Agatha Christie

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/15 with Oli Grounsell

Gary Gibson - 2015

LRob - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Misha - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Tim Newton

Rob Pitt - 2nd - 19/Apr/14

Misha started up slap up to the half height ledge which actually gives a much better route without the slightly pokey ankle braking start of Fitzcarraldo, and unlike the true start gives good and sustained difficulties all the way to the mid height ledge and then includes the top two cruxes of the original route. The final hard move still felt tricky on second, hard E4/easy E5 for this combo.
tim newton - 2nd rpt - 19/Apr/14 with misha nepogodiev

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead O/S - 2014 with Duncan Campbell

A hard & committing start, then it's steady for a fair way, then a hard traverse left by the 2 pegs (should you hand or foot traverse the line of 'holds'? I foot traversed, Jon hand traversed) then the tricky final top slab. I was nearly off a few times.
tim newton - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with jon stewart

Steady away until the top (though niether rob nor I did the proper start, we cam in from shape-up).
Duncan Campbell - 2nd - 01/Apr/13 with Robbie

Howard Lawledge - Lead O/S - Jun/12 with Maddy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/12

bold initial sequence, but the top slab has some good small cams halfway up
switch - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12 with Jo Bertalot

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with richard lade

Shauna - 2nd - 10/Aug/11 with Jules

JulesV - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/11 with Shauna Cunningham

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 26/Apr/11

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 24/Apr/11 with Andy Reeve

owenH - 2011

Adam Long - 2nd - 10/Oct/10 with Neil 'Nige' Kershaw

Screaming feet. The start is ok, with a decent sideways rock 8 up to the right. Then E1 climbing to the pegs. The crux was passing these. Then good gear at the overlap, got established above, hung around forever getting really sore feet, was ready to give up, but then found more holds out left which gave access to slopey muddy pockets, a few exciting pulls led to the top. Exciting.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10 with Mikey G

morganator - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Andy Benson

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Joe Bawden

Seymore Butt - 2010

phil64 - Lead O/S - 2010

Just tried the first move and down climbed as wasn't psyched for damp ish rock above ankle snapping rocks (was psyched for head hunter which was minging).
Paz - Lead dnf - 12/Apr/09 with TS2

fennerz - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/08 with Ed and Gus

awesome runnout at the top! shame a little dirty as its wicked clibming!
Ed Booth - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/08 with Gus Hudgins

Gus - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08 with ed booth

robyn1 - 2008

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/03

Hidden - Lead - 2000

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/99 with Dave Taylor

Roget - Lead O/S - 22/May/99 with jon

sadams - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/98 with Pete Bukowski

Gregory - 2nd - Jun/95 with nigel birtwell

Hidden - 2nd - 1995

Awesome day in the Leap with Captain Nick, 1st in & last to leave, led 3 routes each, starting with Bloody Sunday and Just Another Day (E4s) & then the rest E5s.
jfletcher - Lead O/S - 28/May/94 with Nick Wharton

Billg - Lead O/S - May/94 with Keith Sharples

Hidden - 2nd - 1990

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 29/May/89 with Tudor Griffiths

Hidden - 1989

shark - 2nd - 24/May/87 with Nick Postlethwaite

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/87 with Simon King

andy gittins - 1987

Hidden - 1987

Hidden - 2nd - 1984

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Adam Booth

Total votes cast 53
hard E60 of 18
E60 of 18
easy E60 of 18
hard E56 of 18
E56 of 18
easy E55 of 18
hard E41 of 18
E40 of 18
easy E40 of 18
hard 6b0 of 18
6b0 of 18
easy 6b3 of 18
hard 6a0 of 18
6a14 of 18
easy 6a0 of 18
hard 5c1 of 18
5c0 of 18
easy 5c0 of 18
3 Stars3 of 17
2 Stars8 of 17
1 Star6 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Clean repeat