Rockfax Description
This popular E5 has a hard start and a bold finish. Start just left of Shape-Up below some pockets and cracks. Climb these and the easier flakes above to the overlap. Move left below the old peg and then up to the next overlap. Fill this full of gear, pause for a long time, and then climb direct to the top. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 8.4.83 08/Apr/1983

Ticklists: Ultimate E5 ticklist.

bigie bob 19/Jul Lead O/S
nathanlee 25/May Lead O/S

Found this really hard work!

Duncan Campbell 25/May 2nd rpt

Tricky little number!

Tom Livingstone 09/Apr Lead O/S
with Oli Grounsell
Gary Gibson ??/2015 -
LRob 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Misha 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 19/Apr/14 2nd
tim newton 19/Apr/14 2nd rpt

Misha started up slap up to the half height ledge which actually gives a much better route without the slightly pokey ankle braking start of Fitzcarraldo, and unlike the true start gives good and sustained difficulties all the way to the mid height ledge and then includes the top two cruxes of the original route. The final hard move still felt tricky on second, hard E4/easy E5 for this combo.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2014 Lead O/S
tim newton 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

A hard & committing start, then it's steady for a fair way, then a hard traverse left by the 2 pegs (should you hand or foot traverse the line of 'holds'? I foot traversed, Jon hand traversed) then the tricky final top slab. I was nearly off a few times.

Duncan Campbell 01/Apr/13 2nd

Steady away until the top (though niether rob nor I did the proper start, we cam in from shape-up).

with Robbie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 01/Apr/13 Lead
Howard Lawledge ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Maddy
Hidden 28/May/12 Lead O/S
switch 27/May/12 2nd O/S

bold initial sequence, but the top slab has some good small cams halfway up

dan gibson 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with richard lade
Shauna 10/Aug/11 2nd
with Jules
JulesV 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 26/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/Apr/11 Lead
Toby Dunn 24/Apr/11 2nd
with Andy Reeve
owenH ??/2011 -
Adam Long 10/Oct/10 2nd
with Neil 'Nige' Kershaw
Alex Mason 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Screaming feet. The start is ok, with a decent sideways rock 8 up to the right. Then E1 climbing to the pegs. The crux was passing these. Then good gear at the overlap, got established above, hung around forever getting really sore feet, was ready to give up, but then found more holds out left which gave access to slopey muddy pockets, a few exciting pulls led to the top. Exciting.

with Mikey G
morganator 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Andy Benson
Toby Dunn 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
phil64 ??/2010 Lead O/S
Paz 12/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Just tried the first move and down climbed as wasn't psyched for damp ish rock above ankle snapping rocks (was psyched for head hunter which was minging).

with TS2
fennerz 25/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Ed and Gus
Ed Booth 25/Aug/08 2nd O/S

awesome runnout at the top! shame a little dirty as its wicked clibming!

Gus 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with ed booth
robyn1 ??/2008 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 18/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
PaulTanton 12/Sep/99 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Roget 22/May/99 Lead O/S
with jon
sadams 16/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Pete Bukowski
Gregory ?/Jun/95 2nd
with nigel birtwell
Hidden ??/1995 2nd
jfletcher 28/May/94 Lead O/S

Awesome day in the Leap with Captain Nick, 1st in & last to leave, led 3 routes each, starting with Bloody Sunday and Just Another Day (E4s) & then the rest E5s.

with Nick Wharton
Billg ?/May/94 Lead O/S
with Keith Sharples
Hidden ??/1990 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 29/May/89 Lead
with Tudor Griffiths
Hidden ??/1989 -
shark 24/May/87 2nd
with Nick Postlethwaite
Mike Owen 22/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Simon King
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Hidden ??/1987 -
Hidden ??/1984 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Adam Booth
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