Rockfax Description
This route follows the big-but-not-as-big-as-the-other-one crack, in the right-hand side of the wall. © Rockfax

FA. P.Whillance 2.1.78 02/Jan/1978

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett.

steveprice.exmouth 30/Sep Lead
with Graham Mead
burto 24/Sep Lead O/S
with Troy
benwmorgan 06/Sep Lead O/S
mike.moss 06/Sep 2nd O/S
Richard Kendrick 30/Aug 2nd O/S
with Jim
Dave Mahon 27/Aug 2nd

A good, solid VS. Good lead Justin.

with Justin Sharpe
Hidden 27/Jul Lead
Ian Jones 27/Jul 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul 2nd O/S
ollie1 17/Jul Lead O/S
cameron_hall 04/Jul 2nd O/S
with Pete Cawley
BTphonehome 20/Jun Lead O/S

A nice line but didn't enjoy the climbing. Odd conditions and very greasy. Don't think those blocks in the upper part will be there forever.

with Tony
tmawer 20/Jun 2nd O/S

Greasy and rather spooky.

with Bram
M_Robinson 17/Jun Lead O/S
Hugobristol 07/Jun 2nd
with Sascha
hotfeet 21/May Lead
dr_botnik 11/May Lead O/S
the power 11/May 2nd O/S
with rob
SEDaniels 04/May 2nd O/S
with Dom Pearce
Hidden 04/May 2nd
Jake Young 03/Apr 2nd O/S
CRiddiford 03/Apr Lead
Graeme Hammond 03/Apr 2nd O/S
with Phil Baxter
callumbtaylor 22/Mar Lead O/S
GainzULMC 22/Mar 2nd dog

Didn't enjoy it. The overhang sucked a lot of energy out me, fell off thrice - got there in the end though.

charlielow 22/Mar 2nd O/S

Absolutely awesome route! Definitely leading next time I'm there!

with Joel Miller
Joel Miller 22/Mar Lead
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2015 -
gurumed 25/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with gjd
gjd 25/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Gurumed
FlavioL1989 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Jamie Everitt 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
mossrug 31/Aug/14 -
Hidden 29/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead rpt
skippington 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
RosePearson 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Welly Matt 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
CameronH 20/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Laurence Knowles, Alex Law
GDS 15/Jun/14 2nd
with cris
Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
raymondlinklater 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
HazelMacLean 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S

YEAH! Definitely thuggy.

Lizzie B 10/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead
matt.stevenson 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Matthew Glenn 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Ed Hayter ?/May/14 2nd O/S
Pathological_Climber 21/Apr/14 2nd
Oliver Tilbury 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Steep and sustained.

bigbobbyking 12/Apr/14 -

A bit greasy. Found difficult.

with David Brock
steve-grigg 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
maddy92 11/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 30/Mar/14 -
Hidden 15/Mar/14 2nd rpt
mike mo ??/2014 -
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
mr random 25/Aug/13 Lead
with Alic Cook
Martin Bagshaw 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Rafal Malczyk
Julie Carroll 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Leiko
Rafal Malczyk 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Martin Bagshaw
coneco 25/Aug/13 2nd
with Julie Carroll
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
JP78 24/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
mikecollins 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Laura D
Nigel Coe 03/Aug/13 Lead
with Pete Kelly
JonathanJones 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Liam
Dilwat 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
nickdonohue 26/Jul/13 2nd

Dodgy blocks lodged at the top of the chimney. Beware!

Melanie Parkin 15/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Matt Taylor
clams ?/Jun/13 Lead
with Jim
Hidden 23/May/13 Lead
khalidq 19/May/13 2nd O/S
with Rob Powell
michael burrows 06/May/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Dennis999 05/May/13 2nd O/S
with Remus
nic42 05/May/13 2nd RP
with josh
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
mrchewy 03/May/13 Lead O/S

First VS.

Albachoss 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Spoon
HarryB 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Camilla
catty_9 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Harry Bloxham
Sam Melville ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
VPJB ??/2013 -
Sarah Black ??/2013 Lead O/S
Jillybean 29/Oct/12 Lead
with Brad
cpt_crunch 15/Oct/12 Lead
Nick Russell 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

A good route, pretty steady for VS 4c. Surprised to find it protects really well without anything too large.

with Emily
tim.fairhall 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Matt
Half Pint Lizz 26/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Lynn Liu
Sankey 12/Aug/12 Lead
with jon h, Ed
mattyork2 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing. Steady away on good holds. Good to get the confidence back after yesterday's knock....Steady away to getting back into it all and VS is probably where I am comfortably at.

petellis 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
richiebongo 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Gwen Thomson
matjam 15/Jul/12 Lead
Katya 15/Jul/12 Lead
Nathanie1 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Louise Hall 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Ross.Cooper 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Really Good Route

alasdair19 ?/Jun/12 -
Hidden 19/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead O/S
joem 05/May/12 Lead O/S

Bloodys hard work for vs!!

Matt88 05/May/12 2nd

pretty greasy

with Joe M
ritchierich 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/12 2nd O/S
monsteratt 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Matt lead. Good route and steeper than it looks at the top.

with Richard, Matt Barnett
Hidden 08/Apr/12 2nd β
Mattb1421 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with monty
pie_eater_pete 02/Apr/12 2nd
cf2g08 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
muzz44 ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/12 2nd O/S
mountain.martin 28/Jan/12 Lead rpt
pembrokeshirecaver 28/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Martin
Hidden ??/2012 -
Polly4 ??/2012 -
Hidden 13/Nov/11 2nd rpt
LardClimber 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Dave Williams
hels bels 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S
d_meacher 25/Sep/11 2nd rpt
Paulos 25/Sep/11 Lead
Ketu 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Tom E
Mr Sparkle 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Lindsey Pearson
LovelyMrTom 29/Aug/11 2nd
smolders 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Tracey T
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
John Tanner 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Oli Brend
owb106 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
matthewjames 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Reaver2k 19/Aug/11 2nd
mountain.martin 10/Aug/11 Lead rpt
jacktomlinson 11/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Charlie Evans 11/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Fatboy1000 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Really interesting climbing, crack at the bottom was a bit greasy, steep in places. Nice!

Hidden 24/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Jams Crwca 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S


with Ed morris, Martin
stergeboy 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great climb, I'd give it two stars...

ScottyD 28/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead
frume 24/May/11 2nd O/S
with Ian
Hidden 03/May/11 Lead O/S
Blurgy319 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
John Roe 23/Apr/11 Lead
Sgt. Vest 09/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/11 2nd
david morse 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with siobhan
Neil Henson ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Elliot Carrington ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Tristan Pollitt
Danny Bags ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
matt.woodfield 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
twodada 11/Oct/10 2nd

seb had a bit of a mare on this and rested on the lead twice.

Hidden 03/Oct/10 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
GarethHall 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Sarah
manwithacam 08/Aug/10 Lead

Good intro to area- steep. Sustained and a bit greasy, great line though.

with Dovydas
Hidden 08/Aug/10 TR O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd
DanH9883 29/May/10 Lead O/S
with Lee
hepitt 24/May/10 Lead O/S

Good route, crux in the middle

with Phillipa Arding
Philippa Arding 24/May/10 2nd
with helen pitt
Phil PBC 18/May/10 Lead O/S


agibb 03/May/10 Lead O/S
nic42 03/May/10 2nd O/S
with Sarah R, Matt
lyneux 03/May/10 Lead

Loose blocks at the top give it a necky feel!

with Chris Bull
mes32 01/May/10 2nd
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd
katherinesydney 04/Apr/10 2nd O/S


with gary burgess
Richard Hall 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Adam M
Chris Sansum 25/Mar/10 Lead dog

1 rest. No more climbs that day due to rain!

with Gary Lewin
JonBrown 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Grace
Tim W 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Shonkhor 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Nice features at the start then a pretty thuggy crack. Put me back on Amorican please!

with Alex UBMC
irish paul 07/Mar/10 2nd
with Tim W
RobRock84 23/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with Adam Bevan
Ed morris 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S

very similar to cheiftan. lots of gear and good moves :)

with mark dwyer
Hidden 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Fat Tim 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Mark kauntz
Mattzx6r 13/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Stu
Twisty 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel Stock
godusty 08/May/09 -
d_meacher 21/Feb/09 2nd O/S
tweedcore 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S


annabel hodges 15/Feb/09 2nd O/S

Really good :)

with Jon Bleiker
matsavage 15/Nov/08 Lead dog

1 Fall from gigantic loose chock-stone,

gjd 26/Sep/08 Lead
with Ewan
Hidden 13/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/08 Lead
Kyle Rance 03/Aug/08 2nd
eagleopus 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Gareth
freemanTom 02/Aug/08 Lead

Ascent split over year and a half. Decked out from 30 foot on first attempt, Helicopter ride resulted. Rubbish gear placement. 2nd attempt slick and controlled.

with Jenny Watson
gareth r 02/Aug/08 2nd
with Hywel
RocknRoll 25/May/08 Lead O/S

Raining, but winds from East kept the rain off St. Govans face, greasy though and wet at the top.

with Ramon Marin Martinez
Ramon Marin 25/May/08 2nd O/S
with Gerry Sheehy
Hidden ?/May/08 TR
jude s ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with G Fry
Mark Walter 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah and Alex
Hidden 04/Apr/08 2nd
haydng 27/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Rachel
Hidden ??/2008 Lead RP
Beck Holland 21/Oct/07 Lead dnf
Beck Holland 21/Oct/07 2nd RP
khawk 07/Sep/07 Lead
with WH
Circus 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Pollard
cragdan 24/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 24/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Kirill 28/May/07 Lead O/S
with Claudia Fritz, Chris Donica
ellentaylor 26/May/07 2nd O/S
with 31770
Hjort 06/May/07 2nd
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd
Sgt. Vest 05/May/07 Lead O/S
jepotherepo 21/Apr/07 -
Katya 08/Apr/07 2nd
with Mike
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/07 AltLd
vet ??/2007 Lead
with Helen
RichS-Bristol ??/2007 -
willjones ??/2007 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
janegallwey ??/2007 2nd
drysori ??/2007 Lead
andysroom ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S
keefe 01/Sep/06 -
with Tansy
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead
colkurtz 31/Aug/06 2nd
with Andy, Karin
davidwright 27/Aug/06 Lead
waltersp ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Feb/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
al99 ?/Aug/05 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd
snowy white 13/Jul/05 AltLd
with simon antonon
snowy white 12/Jul/05 AltLd
with simon antonon
reg_measures 26/Mar/05 2nd O/S
with steve burdett
daveayton ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/04 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/04 Lead
Mark Collins 20/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Neil Henson
Neil Henson 20/Jun/04 2nd

Scary route. Glad I didn't try and lead this one. Steep, polished and pumpy.

with Mark Collins
Hidden 23/Mar/04 Lead
dicky79 ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Vic Odell
chris wyatt ??/2004 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 24/Aug/03 2nd
with Paul Stevens, Jill Stevens
mikeyjbs 23/Aug/03 2nd O/S
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Shona D'arcy
Marq 06/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Digger 25/May/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
cem 03/May/03 2nd
with Pete Atkinson
Julian Wedd ??/2003 Lead
with unknown
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 20/Aug/01 Lead
Woody63 20/Aug/01 2nd
with Dave W
Different Steve ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Rupert Holbrook
Hidden ??/2001 -
Hidden 29/Jul/00 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jun/00 Lead
Hidden 24/Jun/00 Lead
Ian Jones ??/2000 Lead
with Karen Ghiselli
timreynolds 25/Sep/99 2nd
with Gary Jackson
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Aug/99 2nd
with Richard Bower
Just Another Dave ??/1998 Lead O/S
Reds 27/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Sezer
Jim Brooke 21/Sep/97 2nd O/S
with Rich
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
simon kimber ??/1997 TR
with Nick Kimber
mikej 01/Oct/96 2nd
with Mike Byles
five ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Ruth Allan ??/1996 2nd O/S

With Imperial College Mountaineering Club.

Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Hidden 22/Sep/94 2nd
whispering nic ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Kat
Hidden 31/May/93 2nd
Rob Davies ?/Apr/93 2nd
with Mick Moss, Charles Kinniburgh
Richard Weller ??/1993 AltLd
with John Temple
Mark Kemball 28/Jul/92 2nd
with Alison Dorey
Hidden 10/May/92 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/92 2nd
steve taylor ?/May/91 Lead
with steve kerr
Hidden 01/Oct/90 Lead O/S
michael burrows 13/Apr/90 2nd
with steve williams
bullybones ??/1990 -
Hidden ?/Aug/88 Lead
BigHairyIan 06/Apr/88 Lead O/S
with Little Dean (Dean Gibbs)
Tony Buckley ?/Mar/88 Lead
with Robert Clark
Mike Owen 30/Jul/87 2nd β
with Elaine Owen
Jelly Mould Surfer ??/1987 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1986 -
Hidden ??/1986 -
Neil R 28/Jul/85 Lead
with Sharon
Dave Musgrove 10/Apr/85 Lead
shark 08/Apr/85 2nd O/S
with Arve
scree ?/Apr/84 -
Nigel Coe 27/Aug/83 -
with Tim Dunsby
Lone Rider ??/1982 -
tapley 23/May/81 AltLd
with John Sumner
Hidden 02/Jan/78 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Thoms6974, web10steelj, Aaron Phillips, Edd Reed, Warren Earle
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 49
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set