Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
The last of the crack climbs in this wall follows the thin crack just left of the descent gully. © Rockfax
FA. N.Siddiqui, S.Beresford Apr/1980.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pete Burgess | 21 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Just wait for army dreamers! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Just wait for army dreamers! |
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| alfredm | 27 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Top of the route is incredibly dangerous, perhaps due to the very wet weather and then dry weather. Very chossy, large boulders came off easily. One smaller sized one nearly hit me as the leader was topping out. When I topped out, I mildly weighted a few of the larger rocks I was told to avoid and some big ones (at least 40cm, some a lot more) came right off. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Top of the route is incredibly dangerous, perhaps due to the very wet weather and then dry weather. Very chossy, large boulders came off easily. One smaller sized one nearly hit me as the leader was topping out. When I topped out, I mildly weighted a few of the larger rocks I was told to avoid and some big ones (at least 40cm, some a lot more) came right off. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Heart of Darkness
Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Mowing Word)