Pembrokeshire > St. Govan's Head >
 
Chieftain* VS 4c

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[Thanks for the 'support' lads!, 2 kb]25n. Start just left of the arete and follow the crack to the top. Variation, E1 5b - traverse right from high on the route to reach another crack. © ROCKFAX
FA. J.Lamb 31.12.76 31/Dec/1976

Photo: Thanks for the 'support' lads! © Mattzx6r
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 310 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/14

Duncan Turner - 2nd - 14/Sep/14

HVS 4C in the CC book, VS 5a in Rockfax. Either way I was chuffed to bits with the lead. Very committing around the crux.
Hamish777 - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/14 with Chris Evans, Duncan Turner

mossrug - 31/Aug/14 with Rob

The Rockfax give it VS 5a, which I'd agree with. Some thought required to get around the crux
Neil Watson - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/14

stevorobs3 - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/14 with Ian Faulkner

ian d f - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/14 with Steve Robinson

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/14

CameronH - TR O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Laurence Knowles, Alex Law

Spicy
Welly Matt - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14

matt.stevenson - Lead O/S - 05/May/14

Awesome. Didn't think I was going to make it.
GeorgeCombe - Lead - 05/May/14 with Dominika

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/14

Another tough VS
Cardi - 2nd O/S - 04/May/14 with Andy F

hazeysunshine - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Ann B

Brown - Solo - 17/Apr/14 with Lily

foostu4 - Lead - 12/Apr/14

steve-grigg - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/14 with David Maddison

Skipped the first few moves by coming in from the side
maddy92 - Lead - 11/Apr/14

pftom - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Rosie Hawker

dave657 - Lead rpt - 15/Mar/14 with Alys

Dan0Me - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/14 with James S

Ed morris - Lead rpt - 16/Feb/14 with Adam Bevan

Bit damp due to the sea spray
PaulTanton - Lead rpt - 30/Dec/13 with Ken McBride

gurumed - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/13 with Kenny

matt.woodfield - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd β - 29/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13

JP78 - 2nd - 24/Aug/13

jon_gill1 - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/13 with ross garfoot

Showery greasy day, backed off the lead. Would have been fine on a better day.
Lessworkmoreclimbing - 2nd - 23/Aug/13 with Kev

daniel.smith - 2nd dog - 09/Aug/13

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Oli

Backed off as not feeling well.
David Walker - 2nd dnf - 05/Jul/13 with Jonathan Whiting

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/13

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Kelli Roberts

kelliroberts3 - 2nd - 02/Jun/13 with Peter Rigby

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/13

khalidq - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13 with Rob Powell

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13

Ciro - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Clare

nic42 - 2nd O/S - 2013 with josh

VPJB - 2013

Sarah Black - Lead O/S - 2013

A tricky start (5a), but reasonable after that. The layback section in the middle gave felt quite committing, but was fun to climb
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Emily

gjd - Lead rpt - 20/Sep/12 with Mark V

Had backed off this years ago
Jams Crwca - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/12 with Craig

Tom led.
stuaart - 2nd - 20/Aug/12 with Kat Torr, Thomas Smith

thomasaneurinsmith - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Katherine Torr, Stuart Reeves

Hard, wet and greasy. Not much fun at all.
Dan Lane - Lead dnf - 22/Jun/12 with Luke Donaldson

Ross.Cooper - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Patrick Hill

Very geasy!
Bry - Lead dnf - 02/Jun/12 with Chris Hind

Very greasy!
Bry - 2nd β - 02/Jun/12 with Chris Hind

Dibdawg - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/12 with Will Twiggers

msoldn - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with Thomasina

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/May/12

felt hard
martinazando - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Charlotte

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/12

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Chris Vanderz

pembrokeshirecaver - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Edmund Morris

Hidden - Lead - Apr/12

muzz44 - Lead O/S - Mar/12

Adam Coles - 2nd - Mar/12 with ben park

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Mar/12

Chris Hind - 2012 with Bry

Polly4 - 2012

LardClimber - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Dave Williams

David Kay - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/11 with James Hoyes

Hoyes - 2nd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with David K

TommityP - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/11

EmilyElouise - Lead RP - 25/Sep/11

Ketu - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Tom E

LovelyMrTom - 2nd - 29/Aug/11 with Rob Truckle

Kirill - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Paul Baxter

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/11

Katya - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Chris Coleman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Euan McKendrick

John Tanner - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Oli Brend

owb106 - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with John Tanner

Felt more like 5a, loads of gear though.
EliotStephens - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Caz

matthewjames - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/11 with Alan Saul

Stanley - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/11 with Cragking

Led up with half of martin's gear in after he backed off. Got on thinking it was VS 4b. No wonder it felt stiff at that grade.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11 with Martin Stanfield

fjellogpadleskole - Lead - 03/Aug/11

tonanf - AltLd - Aug/11 with john sun

jacktomlinson - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Charlie Evans

shiny!
Charlie Evans - 2nd - 11/Jul/11 with Jack Tomlinson

Bry - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/11 with Brandy

Very thuggy layback - need large cams
alex thackway - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/11

pretty fun climb made a little "interesting" as it pissed down with rain as i started up the thing... said to the bro screw it ill see you at the top...he had fun. i was wet.
TM_Horton - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11 with will

Good fun, felt like a long grit route with all the jamming and laybacking up the crack
adam carless - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/11 with Andy Sheridan

bailed off this one too as didnt have sufficient big gear and not confident to make the crux move without it
pebbles - 2nd - 30/May/11 with guido

frume - Lead O/S - 24/May/11 with Ian

Little AndyH - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11

Good value for the grade.
PanzerHanzler - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Bob Butcher

John Roe - Lead - 28/Apr/11 with Andy Woolston

squicky - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11 with spidey

simonf - 2nd - 24/Apr/11 with Simon, Chris

lanky_bastard - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/11

31770 - 2011

pretty fun climb made a little "interesting" as it pissed down with rain as i started up the thing... said to the bro screw it ill see you at the top...he had fun. i was wet.
TM_Horton - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

twodada - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/10 with Seb Fisher Green

First route in Pembroke
mark v - 2nd - 10/Oct/10 with Mike Norbury

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Oct/10

Mr. K - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Joanna Kinghorn

This route is awesome. One of the best VSs that I lead in Pembroke all weekend. Maybe abit hard for the grade. The crux is steep.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Michael Fallon

Joking - 2nd - 26/Sep/10 with Mr. K

May feel harder for the grade.
mloskot - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Beatriz Villate

mloskot - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Beatriz Villate
bvilsue - 2nd - 29/Aug/10 with Mateusz

Julesthe1st - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Paul Wolf

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Aug/10

Oliver Sherman - 2nd - 16/Aug/10 with Matt Reed

ojp - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Si

Reds - 2nd rpt - 12/Aug/10 with John Nuttall

hms - TR O/S - 08/Aug/10

Lauren Davies - 2nd O/S - Aug/10 with sophie nunn, Heather

Vampiresdeluxe - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10

slacky - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/10 with Gary, Ben

In the wet
Harry Thorpe - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Alaina

Didn't feel polished but the rock can get greasy early morning and from spray so maybe that's what other ppl experienced. Good route but quite cruxy and a bit stiff for the grade. Nice layback for the crux though.
Alan100 - 2nd - 05/Jun/10

Dave89 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Fat Al

Fatboy1000 - Lead β - Jun/10 with Chris

RobRock84 - Lead rpt - 26/May/10 with Chris price

Hidden - Lead - 08/May/10

Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Chi Huo Cheng

Little AndyH - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with maria thorpe

Lead by Andy. Really sandy on the exit, but good fun laybacking through the crux.
Slabdancer - 2nd O/S - 03/May/10 with Maria Thorpe, Andy Harrison

slipped off first foot hold.
Chi Cheng - 2nd RP - 03/May/10 with Rachel Stater

theotherpetehill - Lead O/S - 01/May/10

john_ohlsson - Lead dog - May/10

john_ohlsson - Lead dog - May/10

Macca9999 - Lead - May/10

Macca9999 - 2nd - May/10

andyurwin84 - TR O/S - May/10 with Macca9999

koalapie - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

irish paul - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Andy F

RedFox - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Tom K

Richard Hall - 2nd rpt - 04/Apr/10 with Adam M

TiffTiff - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Crazy Tom, Phil

searla - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Will Searle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

cymjt - 2010

benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/09 with Remus Knowles

spicy crux with big bomber cams in the bulge. glad i didnt have to fiddle around with hexes on the steep bit
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09 with mark dwyer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/09

yuk.
w.pettet-smith - 2nd - 22/Aug/09 with claire jane carter

sonic46 - 2nd - 14/Aug/09 with Mike Kean

Mattzx6r - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/09 with Stu

hepitt - 2nd - 09/Aug/09 with Phillipa Arding

Twisty - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/09 with Nigel Stock

clairejane - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with will

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/09

Sophie Nunn - 2nd - 05/Jul/09

alaan - Solo O/S - 29/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09

Dave Thompson - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Tim Cashmore

trevor macalonan - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Phil Belcher

Phil Belcher - 2nd β - 13/Jun/09 with Trev

steve.warrington - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Tam Bardell

ive held on tae wet wriggly fish easier than tryin tae hold on tae this route, pile of crap.. not polished but jist severely smooth wierd rock.
fatbuoybazza - Lead dnf - 24/May/09 with liv_the_div

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 24/May/09

Claire Hardy - Lead - 10/May/09 with mads ingswar

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/09

godusty - 08/May/09 with CLAIRE RICHARDSON

tomB - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Juliette

Ceridwen - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Heather

RobRock84 - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Steve Quinton

Hidden - 2nd β - 21/Mar/09

nickevens - Lead O/S - 2009

mynyddresident - Lead - 2009

wolverine - Lead - 2009

RCrockford - 2nd - 30/Dec/08 with Jonah

@ndy - 2nd O/S - 30/Dec/08 with RCrockford

gjd - 2nd - 29/Sep/08 with Ewan

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Sarah Baker

Found this route ok, didnt notice it being particularly polished or dirty. You can go left to get onto the first ledge but i'd recommend the start direct short but nice and gets you in the mood, big hexes in the crack before the layback then just go.
DrIan - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/08 with juergen

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Aug/08

Kyle Rance - 2nd - 03/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/08

Rose Williams - 2nd O/S - Jun/08 with Gareth

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 13/May/08 with Clare

tlmarjot - 2nd O/S - 02/May/08 with Ric Moat, Anna Wilding

Bob Loblaw - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Dave Reaney

AndrewJenkins - 2008

khawk - Lead - 07/Sep/07 with WH

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/07

cragdan - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/07 with Dan Gibson

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/07

btc - Lead - 23/Jun/07 with Heather Rogers

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/Jun/07

plaz - Lead - 15/Jun/07 with Mat

ellentaylor - 2nd dog - 26/May/07 with 31770

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/May/07

sonnenstern - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Hilary Theaker

featuresforfeet - 2nd O/S - 05/May/07 with Team Ginger

Andrew1 - 2nd - 29/Apr/07 with Andy Lewington

Pythonist - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/07 with Teddington

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/07

Katya - 2nd - 08/Apr/07 with Iain

Hidden - Lead - Apr/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/07

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/07

general - 2nd - 31/Mar/07 with david morse

Tim W - 2nd rpt - 31/Mar/07 with Crispin

a dirty, polished route. full of shit at top too. stay away!! go to another crag for routes at this grade
david morse - Lead - 30/Mar/07 with General

Tim W - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/07 with Mike Dudley

willjones - Lead O/S - 2007

Pete Horn - 2nd RP - 2007 with Ed

Hidden - Lead - 2007

janegallwey - 2nd - 2007

andysroom - Lead O/S - Nov/06

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/06

colin milton - Lead - 22/Aug/06 with fenclimb

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/06

waltersp - Lead O/S - Aug/06

drysori - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with JenW, MartinC

a_radiohead_fan - Aug/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/06

Paz - 2nd β - 23/Jun/06 with HH

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/06

ewen - May/06 with the kettle

Polished & not that satisfying.
KeithW - 2nd β - 30/Apr/06 with Mike Nuttall

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Apr/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/06

John Kettle - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 2006 with Bryn

belay bunny turned bad - 2006

dave657 - Lead O/S - Nov/05

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/05

AngelaC - 2nd - 09/Aug/05 with Dieter Cole

al99 - Lead rpt - Aug/05 with Nick Record

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/05

brian watson - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/05 with Garreth

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/05

reg_measures - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/05 with steve burdett

Hidden - Lead - 09/Oct/04

Abi Chard - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Ian

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - May/04 with Alan Selby

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - May/04 with Ady Short

chris wyatt - Lead rpt - 2004

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 24/Aug/03 with Paul Stevens, Jill Stevens

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/03

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/03 with Shona D'arcy

Marq - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/03 with Sophie Whyte

with sac
Digger - 2nd dog - 25/May/03 with James Latham

Hidden - 2003

Julian Wedd - Lead - 2003 with unknown

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/02

Ben1983 - Solo O/S - May/02

Laramadness - 2nd β - 24/Jun/01

shoulders - Lead - 04/Jun/01 with vic

Different Steve - Lead O/S - May/01 with Rupert Holbrook

Tarquin - 2001

Boxy - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/00 with Aus

cem - 2nd - 29/Apr/00 with Miles Butteriss

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/99

Rog Wilko - Lead - May/99 with Debbie Wilkinson

DafSWMC - Lead O/S - Nov/98

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/98

Paul-Michael - Lead O/S - 03/May/98 with Di Lee

Reds - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/97 with Sezer

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - Apr/97

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

NeilGriffiths - 21/Oct/96 with Paul Tucker

NeilGriffiths - 21/Oct/96

mikej - 2nd - 01/Oct/96 with Mike Byles

buzby78 - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/96

mikej - Lead - 18/May/96 with Mark Hodgson

Hidden - Lead - 1996

craig h - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/94 with Shaun

Hidden - 1994

Roget - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/93 with JT

Budge - 2nd O/S - 1993 with Richard Teed

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/92 with Rick Kerr

innes - Lead O/S - Aug/92 with Chris

jfletcher - Solo - 10/Jun/92

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/92

Backed off leading this in 92. before seconding with Mark. May also have climbed in 98.
Scott McRae - 2nd O/S - Apr/92 with Mark Rennie

Andy Say - Lead - 29/May/89

Hidden - Solo - 1989

ChrisJD - 2nd - 25/Jun/88

ChrisJD - Lead - 09/May/87

steve taylor - Lead - Apr/87 with Nicky Beresford

Tony Buckley - Mar/87 with Richard Brockman

andy gittins - 1987

Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead O/S - 1987

hazeysunshine - Lead O/S - Jun/85 with Jo

malc - Lead - 09/Apr/85

Nigel Bond - Lead - 28/Aug/83 with John

Gordon Stainforth - Lead - 27/Aug/83 with Dave Williams, Tony --?

Mark Kemball - Solo - 25/Apr/83

Nigel Coe - 30/Aug/82 with Steve Portnoi

Hidden - Solo - 1982

mike bridges - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/81 with Kevin Bridges

tapley - AltLd - 23/May/81 with John Sumner

Hidden - Lead - 31/Dec/76

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 139
hard HVS0 of 50
HVS0 of 50
easy HVS6 of 50
hard VS31 of 50
VS13 of 50
easy VS0 of 50
hard HS0 of 50
HS0 of 50
easy HS0 of 50
hard 5a0 of 48
5a0 of 48
easy 5a31 of 48
hard 4c11 of 48
4c6 of 48
easy 4c0 of 48
hard 4b0 of 48
4b0 of 48
easy 4b0 of 48
3 Stars1 of 41
2 Stars9 of 41
1 Star26 of 41
0 Stars3 of 41
Bag of .....2 of 41
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Style of ascent

Soloed7 of 310 (2.3%)
Lead168 of 310 (54.2%)
Followed106 of 310 (34.2%)
Toproped3 of 310 (1.0%)
Alt Leads3 of 310 (1.0%)
Unknown23 of 310 (7.4%)

'Climbed'110 of 310 (35.5%)
clean O/S161 of 310 (51.9%)
clean β8 of 310 (2.6%)
clean rpt16 of 310 (5.2%)
clean RP3 of 310 (1.0%)
dogged6 of 310 (1.9%)
dnf6 of 310 (1.9%)