Rockfax Description
Start just left of the arete and follow the crack to the top. Variation, E1 5b - traverse right from high on the route to reach another crack. © Rockfax

FA. J.Lamb 31.12.76 31/Dec/1976

Matt1234 17/Oct Lead O/S

HVS 4c in CC guide. Very well protected with big gear (size 5 and 6 dragons). VS 5a is a better grade in my opinion

cdpuk 28/Sep Lead O/S

Slippy start. Big gear.

JulianB 28/Sep 2nd O/S
with Rob Hinton
Hidden 25/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Sep 2nd O/S
benwmorgan 06/Sep 2nd β
mike.moss 06/Sep Lead O/S
dobby 200 05/Sep Lead O/S
with kendal
Trace ?/Sep 2nd O/S

Meh. Polished. Pumped. Must try again to enjoy it.

JHiley 29/Aug 2nd
with Krzysztof, Nina
Hidden 29/Aug 2nd dog
Tim Sparrow 27/Aug -

Failed on this as a student back in the 80s. Now I know why! A stiff layback sorts it out but its go-ey for the grade.

with Ian Armstrong
Hidden 01/Aug Lead dnf
Ian Jones 27/Jul 2nd O/S

Foul windy day.

with Dan Moore (DCD)
Hidden 27/Jul 2nd
Andy Chubb 23/Jul Lead O/S

All there where you need it, and plenty of gear. VS 4c

with Nick Gregory
GDun98 19/Jul Lead O/S
with Ryan
Hidden 18/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul 2nd O/S
cameron_hall 04/Jul Lead O/S

A bit greasy at the start.

with Pete Cawley
Hidden 21/Jun 2nd
johncoxmysteriously 20/Jun -

HVS 4c in CC guide. Probably a better grade.

with Mike Pollak
tobydunford 06/Jun 2nd rpt
with Harry Martin
TobyA 06/Jun Lead O/S
with Tom R
james1978 06/Jun Lead O/S
with pam
FlavioL1989 25/May 2nd O/S
hotfeet 21/May Lead
hutchay 16/May 2nd
with Miriam Billig, Dave Clover
dr_botnik 13/May Lead O/S

Tried it two days earlier but it was wet so downclimbed. Came back on a sunny afternoon to finish it off, felt hard work as only had hexes. I went with jams throughout.

the power 13/May 2nd O/S
with rob
Hidden 17/Apr Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Apr Lead O/S
r.greaves 06/Apr 2nd
with jim daly
Nick1812P 06/Apr 2nd O/S
with Tom A
Teappleby 06/Apr Lead
Nick Russell 05/Apr Lead rpt

Hard start on the polish.

with Emily
Emily 05/Apr 2nd rpt

Didn't really remember this but apparently did it last time I was here. Quite liked it - lots of polish on the start but the holds were still fine, and some hard pulling further up. Feeling tired so that was actually quite tough.

with Nick
Nathan Chrismas 04/Apr Lead dog

End of the day and flaked out on dead arms

with Lucas
MD 04/Apr 2nd

The start is very polished.

with Mark H, Ed
peaterpan 23/Mar Lead O/S

Felt a bit tired and low in confidence when approaching the bulge. Eventually committed to the short but hard layback

with james
Ella7 22/Mar Lead O/S

Slightly commiting but technically easy laybacking to get around the crux.

with Aiden BT
AidanBT 22/Mar 2nd dog
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2015 -
Hidden 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Duncan Turner 14/Sep/14 2nd
Hamish777 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

HVS 4C in the CC book, VS 5a in Rockfax. Either way I was chuffed to bits with the lead. Very committing around the crux.

mossrug 31/Aug/14 -
with Rob
Neil Watson 28/Jul/14 2nd O/S

The Rockfax give it VS 5a, which I'd agree with. Some thought required to get around the crux

stevorobs3 23/Jun/14 2nd O/S
ian d f 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead
RosePearson 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
CameronH 20/Jun/14 TR O/S
with Laurence Knowles, Alex Law
Welly Matt 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S


matt.stevenson 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Cardi 04/May/14 2nd O/S

Another tough VS

with Andy F
hazeysunshine 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Ann B
Brown 17/Apr/14 Solo
with Lilifa
foostu4 12/Apr/14 Lead
steve-grigg 11/Apr/14 2nd O/S
maddy92 11/Apr/14 Lead

Skipped the first few moves by coming in from the side

pftom 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Dan0Me 14/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with James S
Ed morris 16/Feb/14 Lead rpt
with Adam Bevan
PaulTanton 30/Dec/13 Lead rpt

Bit damp due to the sea spray

gurumed 26/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Kenny
matt.woodfield 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/13 2nd β
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
JP78 24/Aug/13 2nd
jon_gill1 24/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with ross garfoot
Lessworkmoreclimbing 23/Aug/13 2nd

Showery greasy day, backed off the lead. Would have been fine on a better day.

with Kev
daniel.smith 09/Aug/13 2nd dog
tobydunford 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Oli
David Walker 05/Jul/13 2nd dnf

Backed off as not feeling well.

Hidden 05/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Pete Rigby 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 02/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 23/May/13 Lead
Woody63 23/May/13 2nd
with Dave W
khalidq 19/May/13 2nd O/S
with Rob Powell
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd O/S
Ciro 23/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Clare
nic42 ??/2013 2nd O/S
with josh
VPJB ??/2013 -
Sarah Black ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 01/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

A tricky start (5a), but reasonable after that. The layback section in the middle gave felt quite committing, but was fun to climb

with Emily
gjd 20/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Mark V
Jams Crwca 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt

Had backed off this years ago

with Craig
stuaart 20/Aug/12 2nd

Tom led.

with Kat Torr, Thomas Smith
thomasaneurinsmith 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Katherine Torr, Stuart Reeves
Dan Lane 22/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Hard, wet and greasy. Not much fun at all.

with Luke Donaldson
Ross.Cooper 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Bry 02/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Very geasy!

Bry 02/Jun/12 2nd β

Very greasy!

Dibdawg 01/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Will Twiggers
msoldn 19/May/12 Lead O/S
with Thomasina
Hidden 19/May/12 2nd β
martinazando 12/May/12 Lead O/S

felt hard

with Charlotte
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
pembrokeshirecaver 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead
muzz44 ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Adam Coles ?/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Polly4 ??/2012 -
LardClimber 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Dave Williams
David Kay 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hoyes 30/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with David K
Hidden 25/Sep/11 2nd O/S
EmilyElouise 25/Sep/11 Lead RP
Ketu 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Tom E
LovelyMrTom 29/Aug/11 2nd
Kirill 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Paul Baxter 28/Aug/11 Lead
with Kirill
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd
Katya 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Goose4 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
John Tanner 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Oli Brend
owb106 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
EliotStephens 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Felt more like 5a, loads of gear though.

with Caz
matthewjames 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Reaver2k 16/Aug/11 2nd
Stanley 04/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Cragking
Stanners 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led up with half of martin's gear in after he backed off. Got on thinking it was VS 4b. No wonder it felt stiff at that grade.

with Martin Stanfield
fjellogpadleskole 03/Aug/11 Lead
tonanf ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with john sun
jacktomlinson 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Charlie Evans 11/Jul/11 2nd


Bry 09/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Brandy
Alex 74 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Very thuggy layback - need large cams

Hidden ?/Jul/11 2nd
TM_Horton 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S

pretty fun climb made a little "interesting" as it pissed down with rain as i started up the thing... said to the bro screw it ill see you at the top...he had fun. i was wet.

with will
adam carless 08/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Good fun, felt like a long grit route with all the jamming and laybacking up the crack

with Andy Sheridan
pebbles 30/May/11 2nd

bailed off this one too as didnt have sufficient big gear and not confident to make the crux move without it

with guido
frume 24/May/11 Lead O/S
with Ian
Little AndyH 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
PanzerHanzler 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Good value for the grade.

with Bob Butcher
John Roe 28/Apr/11 Lead
centurion05 28/Apr/11 2nd
squicky 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with spidey
simonf 24/Apr/11 2nd
with Simon, Chris
lanky_bastard 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
31770 ??/2011 -
TM_Horton ??/2011 -

pretty fun climb made a little "interesting" as it pissed down with rain as i started up the thing... said to the bro screw it ill see you at the top...he had fun. i was wet.

PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
twodada 11/Oct/10 Lead O/S
mark v 10/Oct/10 2nd

First route in Pembroke

with Mike Norbury
Hidden 03/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Mr. K 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
James Oswald 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S

This route is awesome. One of the best VSs that I lead in Pembroke all weekend. Maybe abit hard for the grade. The crux is steep.

with Michael Fallon
Joking 26/Sep/10 2nd
with Mr. K
mloskot 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

May feel harder for the grade.

with Beatriz Villate
bvilsue 29/Aug/10 2nd

mloskot - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Beatriz Villate

with Mateusz
Julesthe1st 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Paul Wolf
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Oliver Sherman 16/Aug/10 2nd
with Matt Reed
ojp 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Si
Reds 12/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 08/Aug/10 TR O/S
Lauren Davies ?/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with sophie nunn, Heather
Vampiresdeluxe 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Harry Thorpe 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S

In the wet

with Alaina
Alan100 05/Jun/10 2nd

Didn't feel polished but the rock can get greasy early morning and from spray so maybe that's what other ppl experienced. Good route but quite cruxy and a bit stiff for the grade. Nice layback for the crux though.

Dave89 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Fat Al
Fatboy1000 ?/Jun/10 Lead β
with Chris
RobRock84 26/May/10 Lead rpt
with Chris price
Hidden 08/May/10 Lead
Rachel Slater 03/May/10 Lead O/S
Little AndyH 03/May/10 Lead O/S
with maria thorpe
Hidden 03/May/10 2nd O/S
Chi Cheng 03/May/10 2nd RP

slipped off first foot hold.

theotherpetehill 01/May/10 Lead O/S
john_ohlsson ?/May/10 Lead dog
john_ohlsson ?/May/10 Lead dog
Macca9999 ?/May/10 Lead
Macca9999 ?/May/10 2nd
andyurwin84 ?/May/10 TR O/S
koalapie 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Andy F
RedFox 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Tom K
Richard Hall 04/Apr/10 2nd rpt
with Adam M
TiffTiff 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Crazy Tom, Phil
searla 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
cymjt ??/2010 -
benkelsey 16/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Ed morris 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S

spicy crux with big bomber cams in the bulge. glad i didnt have to fiddle around with hexes on the steep bit

with mark dwyer
Hidden 18/Sep/09 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 22/Aug/09 2nd


with claire jane carter
sonic46 14/Aug/09 2nd
with Mike Kean
Mattzx6r 13/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Stu
hepitt 09/Aug/09 2nd
with Phillipa Arding
Twisty 07/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Nigel Stock
clairejane ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with will
Hidden 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd
Sophie Nunn 05/Jul/09 2nd
alaan 29/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Dave Thompson 20/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Tim Cashmore
trevor macalonan 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd β
steve.warrington 31/May/09 Lead O/S
with Tam Bardell
fatbuoybazza 24/May/09 Lead dnf

ive held on tae wet wriggly fish easier than tryin tae hold on tae this route, pile of crap.. not polished but jist severely smooth wierd rock.

Hidden 24/May/09 2nd rpt
Claire Hardy 10/May/09 Lead
with mads ingswar
Hidden 08/May/09 Lead O/S
godusty 08/May/09 -
tomB 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with Juliette
Ceridwen 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
RobRock84 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Steve Quinton
Hidden 21/Mar/09 2nd β
nickevens ??/2009 Lead O/S
mynyddresident ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
RCrockford 30/Dec/08 2nd
with Jonah
@ndy 30/Dec/08 2nd O/S
gjd 29/Sep/08 2nd
with Ewan
Fat Tim 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
DrIan 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Found this route ok, didnt notice it being particularly polished or dirty. You can go left to get onto the first ledge but i'd recommend the start direct short but nice and gets you in the mood, big hexes in the crack before the layback then just go.

with juergen
Hidden 03/Aug/08 2nd
Kyle Rance 03/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/08 2nd
Rose Williams ?/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Gareth
bpmclimb 13/May/08 Lead O/S
with Clare
tlmarjot 02/May/08 2nd O/S
with Ric Moat, Anna Wilding
Bob Loblaw 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Dave Reaney
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
khawk 07/Sep/07 Lead
with WH
Hidden 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S
cragdan 24/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 24/Jun/07 Lead O/S
btc 23/Jun/07 Lead
with Heather Rogers
Hidden 17/Jun/07 2nd rpt
plaz 15/Jun/07 Lead
with Mat
ellentaylor 26/May/07 2nd dog
with 31770
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead dog
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead O/S
featuresforfeet 05/May/07 2nd O/S
with Team Ginger
Andrew1 29/Apr/07 2nd
with Andy Lewington
Pythonist 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Teddington
Hidden 09/Apr/07 2nd
Katya 08/Apr/07 2nd
with Iain
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/07 AltLd
general 31/Mar/07 2nd
Tim W 31/Mar/07 2nd rpt
with Crispin
david morse 30/Mar/07 Lead

a dirty, polished route. full of shit at top too. stay away!! go to another crag for routes at this grade

with General
Tim W 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
willjones ??/2007 Lead O/S
Pete Horn ??/2007 2nd RP
with Ed
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
janegallwey ??/2007 2nd
andysroom ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/06 2nd
colin milton 22/Aug/06 Lead
with fenclimb
Hidden 22/Aug/06 2nd O/S
waltersp ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
drysori ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with JenW, MartinC
a_radiohead_fan ?/Aug/06 -
Hidden ?/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Paz 23/Jun/06 2nd β
with HH
Hidden 15/Jun/06 2nd O/S
ewen ?/May/06 -
John Kettle ?/May/06 AltLd
with ewen
KeithW 30/Apr/06 2nd β

Polished & not that satisfying.

with Mike Nuttall
Hidden 29/Apr/06 2nd
Hidden 18/Feb/06 Lead O/S
John Kettle ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Dave Foster ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Bryn
belay bunny turned bad ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/05 2nd O/S
AngelaC 09/Aug/05 2nd
al99 ?/Aug/05 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd
brian watson 16/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Garreth
LC ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
reg_measures 26/Mar/05 2nd O/S
with steve burdett
Hidden 09/Oct/04 Lead
Abi Chard ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Ian
Chris the Tall ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Alan Selby
Urgles ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Ady Short
chris wyatt ??/2004 Lead rpt
Nigel Coe 24/Aug/03 2nd
with Paul Stevens, Jill Stevens
Hidden ?/Aug/03 2nd
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Shona D'arcy
Marq 06/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Digger 25/May/03 2nd dog

with sac

with James Latham
Hidden ??/2003 -
Julian Wedd ??/2003 Lead
with unknown
Hidden 02/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Ben1983 ?/May/02 Solo O/S
Laramadness 24/Jun/01 2nd β
shoulders 04/Jun/01 Lead
with vic
Different Steve ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Rupert Holbrook
Hidden ??/2001 -
Boxy 21/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Aus
cem 29/Apr/00 2nd
with Miles Butteriss
Hidden 27/Jul/99 Lead
Rog Wilko ?/May/99 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
DafSWMC ?/Nov/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/98 Lead
Paul-Michael 03/May/98 Lead O/S
with Di Lee
Reds 27/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Sezer
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Apr/97 2nd
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
NeilGriffiths 21/Oct/96 -
with Paul Tucker
NeilGriffiths 21/Oct/96 -
mikej 01/Oct/96 2nd
with Mike Byles
buzby78 06/Jul/96 Lead O/S
mikej 18/May/96 Lead
with Mark Hodgson
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
pingora 04/May/94 -
with Shaun R
craig h 04/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with Shaun
Hidden ??/1994 -
Roget 11/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
Budge ??/1993 2nd O/S
with Richard Teed
Chris Ellis 07/Sep/92 Lead
with Rick Kerr
innes ?/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with Chris
jfletcher 10/Jun/92 Solo
Hidden 15/Apr/92 Lead
Scott McRae ?/Apr/92 2nd O/S

Backed off leading this in 92. before seconding with Mark. May also have climbed in 98.

with Mark Rennie
Hidden 11/Jul/90 Lead
Steve Crowe 17/Apr/90 2nd O/S
Andy Say 29/May/89 Lead
Rob Davies ?/May/89 2nd

VS 4b in those days

with Mick Moss
Hidden ??/1989 Solo
Hidden 25/Jun/88 2nd
Hidden 09/May/87 Lead
steve taylor ?/Apr/87 Lead
with Nicky Beresford
Tony Buckley ?/Mar/87 -
with Richard Brockman
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Jelly Mould Surfer ??/1987 Lead O/S
Neil R 28/Jul/85 Lead
with Sharon
hazeysunshine ?/Jun/85 Lead O/S
with Jo
malc 09/Apr/85 Lead
Nigel Bond 28/Aug/83 Lead
with John
Gordon Stainforth 27/Aug/83 Lead
with Dave Williams, Tony --?
Mark Kemball 25/Apr/83 Solo
Nigel Coe 30/Aug/82 -
with Steve Portnoi
Hidden ??/1982 Solo
mike bridges 14/Jul/81 Lead O/S
tapley 23/May/81 AltLd
with John Sumner
Hidden 31/Dec/76 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
charlielow, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 61
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set