Pembrokeshire > St. Govan's Head >
 
The Loosener* HVS 5a

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To the right of the open corner is a blunt arete which is undercut on its right-hand side. This route follows the crack to the left of the arete. Not very well named, thankfully. © ROCKFAX
FA. B.Newman 7.4.80 07/Apr/1980
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 94 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/13

great climbing for the grade!
willoates - Solo O/S - 30/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Oct/12

gjd - 2nd - 20/Sep/12 with Mark V

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/12

stuaart - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Kat Torr, Thomas Smith

Thuggy!
thomasaneurinsmith - 2nd - 20/Aug/12 with Katherine Torr, Stuart Reeves

Climbed above crazy seas and strong winds. The start felt bold on wet holds.
robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Si

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/12

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Pete Ellis

petellis - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with mattyork2

richiebongo - 2nd O/S - 2012 with Nick Smith

Hidden - 2012

annetweddell - Lead - 02/Oct/11 with Jeff

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11

Kirill - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Paul Baxter

TheMonkeyMan - 2nd dog - 23/Aug/11

Probably the pumpyist route I have ever done at the grade. Totally boxed out of my head topping out, simple moves on jugs, just steep.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Martin Stanfield, Rob Stanfield

most pumpey HVS I have done.
Stanners - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Martin Stanfield, Jack Bradbrook

Stanley - TR O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Cragking, Jack Bradbrook

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/11

Sustained
mountain.martin - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/11

pumpy
frume - 2nd O/S - 24/May/11 with Ian

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/May/11

lead to get out. backed off the year before. felt quite easy this time round
Chi Cheng - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Jon Fane

r fizzle - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Olli Crudge

Olli-C - 2nd - 30/Apr/11 with Rachel Slater

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/11

Oliver Sherman - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Deniz Sumengen

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Steve Harby

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/10

metal arms - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10

Owen Pinch - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10

Jenny Seaborne - TR dog - 08/Aug/10

hms - TR β - 08/Aug/10

Lower section got a bit pumpy. Might have just been a bit of early morning greasiness though. Good route anyway - steep start, juggy and well protected.
Alan100 - Lead - 05/Jun/10

Paul Bowen - 2nd - 04/Jun/10 with Rebecca Hayes

Very hot day! started trying to lead, but hands too hot and sweaty so swapped with Pa, good to second! Very sustained till about 2/3 height!!! Full on but good - will have to come back to this one!
hepitt - 2nd - 24/May/10 with Phillipa Arding

Philippa Arding - Lead dog - 24/May/10 with helen pitt

really steep start and damp, had a real greasy feel to it for the first 20ft.
Pbclimbing.com - Lead dog - 18/May/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/May/10

Reversed to the ground. Saved Onsight of a later date??
Chi Cheng - Lead dnf - 03/May/10 with Rachel Stater

first trad lead!!
Matthew Gray - Lead O/S - May/10

Richard Hall - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Adam M

TiffTiff - 2nd O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Crazy Tom, Phil

Tim W - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Paul Black

irish paul - 2nd - 07/Mar/10 with Tim W

Hidden - Lead dog - 2010

RobRock84 - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/09 with Robin neath

steep!
Ed morris - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with -martin

trevor macalonan - 2nd β - 13/Jun/09 with Phil Belcher

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Trev

cem - 2nd O/S - 02/May/09 with Graham Dolman

Aaron Lines - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

morganator - Solo O/S - 22/Aug/08

haydng - Lead rpt - 31/May/08 with Rachel

RMG - 2nd - 31/May/08 with haydng

featuresforfeet - 2nd O/S - 05/May/07 with Team Ginger

willjones - Lead O/S - 2007

chris wyatt - 2007

janegallwey - 2nd - 2007

chris j - 2nd rpt - 24/Jun/06 with Doug

chris j - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/06 with Mark Davies

dave657 - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/06 with Mike

belay bunny turned bad - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/05

joe_alexander - 2nd - 08/May/05 with Dave Hope

daveayton - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2005

Boxy - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/04 with Mick

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead - 24/Mar/04

Hammy - TR - 10/Aug/03

Had a desperate struggle on this route, which was dirty & wet at the time. Normally it's quite a good route apparently!
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with Thea Williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/02

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/01

loundsy - 1999

Hidden - 1994

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Hidden - Lead - 04/May/92

Hidden - Lead - 1989

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 21/Oct/88 with Simon Donowho, John Wilkinson

Billg - 2nd - 24/Jul/87 with Dave Gregory

andy gittins - 1987

keefe - 15/Feb/86

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 24/Apr/84 with Kenny Winkworth

Mike Owen - 08/Apr/83 with Elaine Owen

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 09/Apr/82 with Dave Abbey

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 20/May/81 with Richard Langthorp

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Michael Hood, Albie, Oliver Sherman

Voting
Total votes cast 68
hard E10 of 24
E10 of 24
easy E11 of 24
hard HVS10 of 24
HVS12 of 24
easy HVS1 of 24
hard VS0 of 24
VS0 of 24
easy VS0 of 24
hard 5b0 of 23
5b0 of 23
easy 5b0 of 23
hard 5a19 of 23
5a3 of 23
easy 5a1 of 23
hard 4c0 of 23
4c0 of 23
easy 4c0 of 23
3 Stars0 of 21
2 Stars15 of 21
1 Star6 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 94 (2.1%)
Lead45 of 94 (47.9%)
Followed33 of 94 (35.1%)
Toproped4 of 94 (4.3%)
Alt Leads2 of 94 (2.1%)
Unknown8 of 94 (8.5%)

'Climbed'31 of 94 (33.0%)
clean O/S50 of 94 (53.2%)
clean β2 of 94 (2.1%)
clean rpt5 of 94 (5.3%)
dogged5 of 94 (5.3%)
dnf1 of 94 (1.1%)