The Loosener* HVS 5a
To the right of the open corner is a blunt arete which is undercut on its right-hand side. This route follows the crack to the left of the arete. Not very well named, thankfully. © ROCKFAX
FA. B.Newman 7.4.80 07/Apr/1980
PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 130 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Much nicer in the dry.
gurumed - Lead RP - 26/Sep/14 with gjd

gjd - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/14 with Gurumed

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Aug/14

Quiddity - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/14 with Mac and Ally, Curious Yellow

3 Names - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/14 with Hazel Rowson, Nick

Hard to tell as I was tired but probably the most pumpy HVS route I've done!
Slick - Lead - 29/Jun/14 with Kevin Vans-Colina, Isabel Evans

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jun/14

stevorobs3 - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/14 with Ian Faulkner

ian d f - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/14 with Steve Robinson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/14

With Dan's gear in the bottom half. Felt pretty tough for the grade.
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/14 with Dan Fairbank

Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/Jun/14

VPJB - Lead - 27/May/14

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 25/May/14 with Harry Martin

Better than the name suggests.
Becky E - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Andrea

wolverine - Lead - 18/Apr/14 with Caroline Ashman

Thunderthighsontheloose - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Mike Hayes

Sand bag pile of shite.
gurumed - Lead dog - 26/Sep/13 with Kenny

gjd - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/13 with Hutch

metal arms - Lead - 31/Aug/13

Polished holds and drizzle ...a great combination
shoulders - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/13 with jon shewring, mike shewring, andy sharp

nickstephens - Lead dog - 13/Aug/13 with Gareth Greeves

gg4419 - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/13 with Nick Stephens

Failed miserably on the start. Found it pretty greasy on this day. Managed it on the second after Nick took over the lead.
Dilwat - Lead dog - 26/Jul/13 with Nick

Ian tried to lead but had to back off. He'd placed 2 bits gear. I then led through.
nickdonohue - Lead - 26/Jul/13 with Ian Riddell

Pretty tough at the second bulge
Andy Chubb - Lead dog - 19/Jul/13 with Nick Gregory

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/13

great climbing for the grade!
willoates - Solo O/S - 30/Mar/13

jcw - 2013

VPJB - 2013

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Oct/12

gjd - 2nd - 20/Sep/12 with Mark V

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/12

stuaart - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Kat Torr, Thomas Smith

Thuggy!
thomasaneurinsmith - 2nd - 20/Aug/12 with Katherine Torr, Stuart Reeves

Climbed above crazy seas and strong winds. The start felt bold on wet holds.
robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Si

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/12

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Pete Ellis

petellis - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with mattyork2

richiebongo - 2nd O/S - 2012 with Nick Smith

Hidden - 2012

annetweddell - Lead - 02/Oct/11 with Jeff

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11

Kirill - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Paul Baxter

TheMonkeyMan - 2nd dog - 23/Aug/11

Probably the pumpyist route I have ever done at the grade. Totally boxed out of my head topping out, simple moves on jugs, just steep.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Martin Stanfield, Rob Stanfield

most pumpey HVS I have done.
Stanners - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Martin Stanfield, Jack Bradbrook

Stanley - TR O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Cragking, Jack Bradbrook

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11

edmitchell - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with adam booth

Sustained
mountain.martin - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/11

pumpy
frume - 2nd O/S - 24/May/11 with Ian

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/May/11

lead to get out. backed off the year before. felt quite easy this time round
Chi Cheng - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Jon Fane

Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Olli Crudge

Olli-C - 2nd - 30/Apr/11 with Rachel Slater

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/11

Oliver Sherman - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Deniz Sumengen

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Steve Harby

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/10

metal arms - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10

Owen Pinch - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10

Jenny Seaborne - TR dog - 08/Aug/10

hms - TR β - 08/Aug/10

Lower section got a bit pumpy. Might have just been a bit of early morning greasiness though. Good route anyway - steep start, juggy and well protected.
Alan100 - Lead - 05/Jun/10

Paul Bowen - 2nd - 04/Jun/10 with Rebecca Hayes

Very hot day! started trying to lead, but hands too hot and sweaty so swapped with Pa, good to second! Very sustained till about 2/3 height!!! Full on but good - will have to come back to this one!
hepitt - 2nd - 24/May/10 with Phillipa Arding

Philippa Arding - Lead dog - 24/May/10 with helen pitt

really steep start and damp, had a real greasy feel to it for the first 20ft.
Phil PBC - Lead dog - 18/May/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/May/10

Reversed to the ground. Saved Onsight of a later date??
Chi Cheng - Lead dnf - 03/May/10 with Rachel Stater

first trad lead!!
Matthew Gray - Lead O/S - May/10

Gav A - Lead O/S - May/10 with Goose

Richard Hall - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Adam M

TiffTiff - 2nd O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Crazy Tom, Phil

Tim W - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Paul Black

irish paul - 2nd - 07/Mar/10 with Tim W

Hidden - Lead dog - 2010

RobRock84 - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/09 with Robin neath

steep!
Ed morris - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with -martin

trevor macalonan - 2nd β - 13/Jun/09 with Phil Belcher

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Trev

cem - 2nd - 02/May/09 with Graham Dolman

Aaron Lines - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

morganator - Solo O/S - 22/Aug/08

haydng - Lead rpt - 31/May/08 with Rachel

RMG - 2nd - 31/May/08 with haydng

featuresforfeet - 2nd O/S - 05/May/07 with Team Ginger

willjones - Lead O/S - 2007

chris wyatt - 2007

janegallwey - 2nd - 2007

chris j - 2nd rpt - 24/Jun/06 with Doug

chris j - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/06 with Mark Davies

dave657 - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/06 with Mike

belay bunny turned bad - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/05

joe_alexander - 2nd - 08/May/05 with Dave Hope

daveayton - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2005

Boxy - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/04 with Mick

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead - 24/Mar/04

Hammy - TR - 10/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/02

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/01

Hidden - 1999

mikej - Lead - 01/Oct/96 with Mike Byles

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/95

Hidden - Lead - 22/Sep/94

Hidden - 1994

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Hidden - Lead - 04/May/92

Hidden - Lead - 1989

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 21/Oct/88 with Simon Donowho, John Wilkinson

Billg - 2nd - 24/Jul/87 with Dave Gregory

andy gittins - 1987

keefe - 15/Feb/86

wynaptomos - 2nd O/S - Feb/86

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 24/Apr/84 with Kenny Winkworth

Nigel Coe - Lead - 27/Aug/83 with Tim Dunsby

Mike Owen - 08/Apr/83 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - 02/Jan/83

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 09/Apr/82 with Dave Abbey

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 20/May/81 with Richard Langthorp

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Michael Hood, Albie, Oliver Sherman

Voting
Total votes cast 82
hard E10 of 29
E10 of 29
easy E11 of 29
hard HVS13 of 29
HVS14 of 29
easy HVS1 of 29
hard VS0 of 29
VS0 of 29
easy VS0 of 29
hard 5b0 of 28
5b0 of 28
easy 5b0 of 28
hard 5a21 of 28
5a6 of 28
easy 5a1 of 28
hard 4c0 of 28
4c0 of 28
easy 4c0 of 28
3 Stars0 of 25
2 Stars17 of 25
1 Star7 of 25
0 Stars1 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
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Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf