Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
A good route with one hard move. The very old peg can be backed up. Climb the lower wall to the ledge. Move up to the base of a ramp and follow it to its end. Make a difficult move up the wall above, then move right into a groove and climb this to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The peg is in a very dangerouse state and would not take a fall. The route is probably E4.
Al Evans 15/Aug/1980.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| NuclearNev | 12 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: The peg on this route is seriously bendy and needs backing up. The crux sequence is devious and not at all obvious. Prob worth E4 6a. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The peg on this route is seriously bendy and needs backing up. The crux sequence is devious and not at all obvious. Prob worth E4 6a. |
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| Steve Crowe | 6 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: The easy(ish) start is dangerously hollow and about to fall down. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The easy(ish) start is dangerously hollow and about to fall down. |
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| Steve Crowe | 6 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I have scribbled E4 6b in my guide, but mabye I was tired! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I have scribbled E4 6b in my guide, but mabye I was tired! |
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| John Alcock | 25 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Much harder now a hold on crux has fallen off. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Much harder now a hold on crux has fallen off. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Bloody Sunday
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Huntsman's Leap)