Rockfax Description
A superb climb which leads you on with a lazy lower groove and then smacks you with a savage finishing crack. Start below the open groove and stroll up this to the left-hand of three cracks which sprout from its end. Arrange plenty of gear then attack the crack with everything you've got. Traverse right and finish easily above. © Rockfax

FA. P.Whillance 2.1.78 02/Jan/1978

Ticklists: Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Frances Bensley 06/Sep Lead O/S
benkelsey 15/Aug 2nd O/S

Much easier than the guide suggests but still ace.

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 15/Aug Lead O/S

reading the description got me psyched for a grit style struggle but turned out to be quite technical

mynyddresident 25/Jul Lead O/S

Tricky warm up, ran it out from the start of the headwall which probably wasn't sensible.

with KP
Hidden 21/Jun Lead O/S
alastairbegley 07/Jun Lead O/S

Final crack was pretty pumpy for the first route of the day

with Richard
Luxulyan 07/Jun 2nd
with Alastair
Hidden 25/May Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May 2nd
dan gibson 24/May Lead rpt
with Eszter
markalmack 23/May 2nd O/S
with will
brices 16/May 2nd rpt
with Edd, Llinos
mike lawrence? 16/Apr Lead
with FatRob
MichaelGallimore 11/Apr Lead O/S

Nice moves through the roof

with Andy Cmc
Graeme Hammond 07/Apr Lead rpt

As we were in the area again and it was very enjoyable on 2nd

with Chris Hindley
Graeme Hammond 06/Apr 2nd O/S
Llinos C 05/Apr Lead
ollie_e 04/Apr Lead O/S

Feels committing going through the final roof!

Hidden 04/Apr Lead O/S
brices 04/Apr 2nd β

good moves on the headwall

with Llinos
chrisscutt 04/Apr 2nd O/S
with oly
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 03/Apr Lead O/S

In the rain...

nathanlee 03/Apr 2nd
with Rob Greenwood
drysori 03/Apr Lead
Tom Redmond 03/Apr 2nd
with malcolm smith
PaulTanton 02/Apr 2nd rpt

Very wet

with Will
bede.west ?/Apr Lead O/S

an un expected lead after partner backed off. good route

with German loui
Hidden ??/2015 -
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 31/Aug/14 2nd

Top crack pumpy but on surprising good holds. Lower half better than it looks too.

with ali k
Pippa 22/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Jon
Misha 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Found getting into the groove unexpectedly hard, whereas starting the final crack was unexpectedly easy as the handholds are really good - they soon get worse though, thus earning the grade. A bit pumpy placing fiddly gear at the top of the crack (didn't have the right size cam to stick into the crack so faffed around with the break), easier to just traverse right but the second won't appreciate that!

with Nic
stevorobs3 23/Jun/14 2nd O/S
ian d f 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 2nd
RosePearson 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
john lynch 16/May/14 Lead O/S

Pulled the block off at the base of the groove, fortunately not hurting too much and no affecting the route.

with Lewis Andrew
Rachel Slater 07/May/14 2nd O/S
Justin T 07/May/14 Lead O/S

Last route of the day, climbed in down jacket over four layers as the wind-driven spray from a fair swell heckled me up. Top crack felt fine, stopped and laced it with gear from reasonable jams and footholds.

with Rachel
mountain_jay 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Climbed up and down the crux what must have been three times!! The gear was great, just I felt nervous about landing back on the ledge. Great looking crack from the ab in.

Pippa 05/May/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
PaulTanton 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Hidden 24/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Dibdawg 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Richard Lade
John Nuttall 01/Sep/13 2nd
with Jon
charles-green ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Nice face climbing into a groove, followed by a cool steep crack.

Curly Rich 11/Aug/13 2nd dog

:¬( fell at crux

with GMC Peter Neden, GMC Paul S
cooperman 05/Jul/13 Lead β

one barn door move on top crack

with Greg Foster
Hidden 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
tatz45 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Will Harris
Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Alice Thompson 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Michael Porter
Sarah Black ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Dennis999 05/May/13 2nd dog

Too hard the first route of the day, got pumped out and fell

with Remus
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Tubs 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Steady for E2 if you can jam.

with Dave M
barni 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Oates
irish paul ??/2013 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 13/Aug/12 2nd O/S
jacobjlloyd 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Dougie
mikeshewring 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S
shoulders 10/Aug/12 Lead β
drysori ?/Aug/12 2nd
with Dunc
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Billg 19/May/12 2nd
with Ollie
Ollie B 19/May/12 Lead O/S
with B.Gregory
ellis 19/May/12 Lead O/S

Also fell off, backed off and rested on some other objectives...

with Alan Willoner
david morse 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Josh,Nath+Mikey
Luke Brooks 15/Apr/12 Lead dog

Stupid foot slip on the crux, on the rope before I knew it.

with Glyn Hudson, Konrad Doyle
Glyn 14/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Luke
Oddjob 07/Apr/12 Lead dog

2 Falls on the headwall

with Markus
haydng 06/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with Dave
Hidden 05/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/12 2nd
Lenny 24/Mar/12 2nd dog
with John
Ciro 18/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Ramon
Ramon Marin 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with ciaran tracey
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 25/Sep/11 2nd dog
Hidden 17/Sep/11 2nd
drysori 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Jon L
BeccaSnowden 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Tom
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Becca
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Speeddemonsi 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with john sun
Tomar 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Harry, Rafael
Hidden 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
lukehodson 16/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Top crack was excellent, not as hard as it looks from below

mountain.martin 14/Jul/11 Lead β

Well protected and quite easy for E2 if you find the hidden hold quickly. Direct (well slightly diagonally right) finish from the break is pretty easy and more logical than traversing the break.

Ed morris 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with stefan
Stefan_Morris 09/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Awesome top section!

dan gibson 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with richard lade
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 27/May/11 Lead O/S

Potential solo romp for me to the top crack and despite huge anticipation otherwise, fair old romp from there too. Running out from good high gear was the best strategy it would seem

Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/11 2nd
Pippa 23/Apr/11 Lead
with Jon
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dan Lane 02/Sep/10 2nd dog

good climbing, especially the top crack, which i managed to layback all but one move, where i had to rest, and switch to jamming.

frost 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with N Griffiths, D Garry
NeilGriffiths 27/Aug/10 2nd
with Dave Garry, Simon Frost
Alasdair88 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 23/Aug/10 2nd O/S

savage crack indeed!

with Al
Alex Mason 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Cool exposed finishing crack.

with Laura Perry, Mikey G
London Luke 14/Aug/10 Lead

some gear was preplaced

with si Hill
ASchwirtz 14/Jun/10 Lead dog
with Cocky
adam coxsell 14/Jun/10 2nd
with ant
Laurence Everitt 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S
gnc760 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with James Kay
Hidden 11/Jun/10 2nd O/S
nick arding 24/May/10 Lead O/S
with rob pitt
Rob Pitt 24/May/10 2nd
with Nick Arding
nick arding 24/May/10 Lead O/S
with rob pitt
Adam Booth 22/May/10 TR

El had given up by then, so had to top rope it.

Richard Hall 04/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Adam M
TiffTiff 13/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Crazy Tom, Phil
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
cymjt ??/2010 -
Richard Horn 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
simonp ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
Shauna 15/Aug/09 2nd

pleased to get this clean - ish. although I'll confess to a bit of a tight rope.

with Steve
Rob Pitt 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Owen Davies
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead
DafSWMC 21/Jun/09 2nd O/S
chris wyatt 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S

A 'go for it' move nearly had me doubting.

with Daf
Hidden 25/May/09 2nd
Shauna 24/May/09 2nd dog
with Jules
Chad123 18/May/09 AltLd dog

Bad choice of warm up, cold and damp and hung around on crux for too long putting gear in....doh...

with James Humble
Hidden 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/09 2nd
Martin Haworth 31/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 31/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/08 Lead O/S
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
with A. Howarth
JulesV ??/2008 Lead O/S
irish paul 04/Nov/07 Lead dog

Ooooooooh,hard work, 8m whipper after running out crux, oops

with Steinar
Docent 06/Oct/07 Lead dog
with stecu
feilx 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden 20/Aug/07 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 29/May/07 Lead O/S

Very good. Well worth doing

with Dave Taylor
Dan_Carroll 28/May/07 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
Beck Holland 28/May/07 2nd dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
RichS-Bristol ??/2007 -
haydng ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
Billg ??/2007 Lead O/S
Neil Ireson 20/Jul/06 Lead
with Jane
Hidden 29/Jun/06 Lead rpt
chris j 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with James & Doug
Mark Riley 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Steve
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/06 2nd dog
Urgles ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Fiend
Boy ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
belay bunny turned bad ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 2nd O/S
Brown 30/Jul/05 2nd
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 22/May/05 2nd
with Tuffty Nick
Bella 17/May/05 2nd O/S
with Helen
Hidden 14/Apr/05 Lead O/S
daveayton ??/2005 Lead O/S
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
GuyM ??/2005 -

shouting "awesome dude" at the top to make sarah feel at home!

with jim
alex_th 09/Apr/04 2nd
with Tim Riley
Hidden 17/Sep/01 2nd
Hidden 29/May/01 Lead O/S
ian caton ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Andy
dickypips ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/00 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 17/Jun/00 2nd O/S

Very strenuous for a few moves.

with Trevor Stevens, Adrian Casey
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/May/99 Lead O/S
with Stone Elworthy
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/98 2nd rpt
with Robin
nickdonohue 24/Aug/97 Lead

superb, my first E2

with Caley Latham, Dave Chapman
jfletcher 23/Aug/97 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/97 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr/97 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Hidden ?/May/96 2nd
Andy Say 14/Apr/95 Lead
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
Hidden 29/Aug/93 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/93 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 Lead
with Graham Iles
Alan James - UKC and UKH 24/Jul/93 Lead
with Lewis Grundy
innes ?/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 02/May/92 Lead
Roget 05/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 05/Jul/91 2nd
steve taylor ?/May/91 Lead
with steve kerr
Rich Kirby 16/Apr/90 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Hidden 30/May/89 -
Bruce Kerr 24/Mar/89 2nd
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
AlexRenshaw 19/Sep/87 2nd
with Doré Green
Steve Crowe 18/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Feb/87 2nd
andy gittins ??/1987 -
keefe 18/Feb/86 -
Hidden 16/Jul/85 2nd
John Marsland 27/May/85 Lead

given HVS at the time

with George Shaw
shark 11/Apr/85 Lead O/S
with Triss Kenny
shark 08/Apr/85 Lead O/S
Neil R 07/Apr/85 2nd
with Mark
Gregory ??/1985 Lead
tapley 26/Apr/84 2nd
with John Sumner
Mike Owen 08/Apr/83 Lead O/S
with Lew Brown, Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 30/Mar/83 Lead
with Simon Yates
Dave Musgrove 10/Apr/82 Lead
with Mike Butler, Andy Wild
Hidden ??/1982 2nd
Hidden ??/1982 -
steve L ??/1982 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jan/78 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
EyebrowTom, hutchay, Hidden, RFWilkie, Hidden, Hidden, pigeonslipper, Hidden
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 42
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set