UKC

Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  The restriction on the D-Day area has been lifted for the 2023 season as of 3rd July.

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)    RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

39m.

Rockfax Description
A superb climb which leads you on with a lazy lower groove and then smacks you with a savage finishing crack. Start below the open groove and stroll up this to the left-hand of three cracks which sprout from its end. Arrange plenty of gear then attack the crack with everything you've got. Traverse right and finish easily above. © Rockfax

FA. P.Whillance, D.Armstrong 02/Jan/1978.

Ticklists

Ultimate E2 ticklist , 2021

Feedback

User Date Notes
duncan 16 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Can also finish direct at the same grade
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can also finish direct at the same grade
Neil Ireson 14 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: It's actually the middle of the three cracks and not the left-hand one; it's correct in the guide diagram. A better description might be, "Start below the open groove and follow this to a sloping ledge. Arrange some good gear then attack the steep crack above."
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's actually the middle of the three cracks and not the left-hand one; it's correct in the guide diagram. A better description might be, "Start below the open groove and follow this to a sloping ledge. Arrange some good gear then attack the steep crack above."
chris j 25 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: For grit climbers, think of it as Chequers Crack on top of a 60 foot VS and you're just about there. The gear is solid and you can place as much as you like all the way up the crack, as long as you've strength to hold on...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For grit climbers, think of it as Chequers Crack on top of a 60 foot VS and you're just about there. The gear is solid and you can place as much as you like all the way up the crack, as long as you've strength to hold on...
Fiend 8 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A good line with some nice climbing, but rather strange in terms of difficulty - the crux is all about cramming enough gear into the otherwise easy top crack to avoid the potentially ankle-mashing ledge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good line with some nice climbing, but rather strange in terms of difficulty - the crux is all about cramming enough gear into the otherwise easy top crack to avoid the potentially ankle-mashing ledge.
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The crack IS pretty desperate (for a hypothetical "standard" E1/2 leader anyway) but the gear below is not going anywhere. So you might get hurt, but you're not going to die and for me that made the difference between topping out and backing off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The crack IS pretty desperate (for a hypothetical "standard" E1/2 leader anyway) but the gear below is not going anywhere. So you might get hurt, but you're not going to die and for me that made the difference between topping out and backing off.
Paz 21 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'm not a big fan of taking into account accidents too much (re. caption in St Govans Inn) but anyway: it's not a bad idea to more cautiously "stitch, then attack the crack with everything you've got".
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm not a big fan of taking into account accidents too much (re. caption in St Govans Inn) but anyway: it's not a bad idea to more cautiously "stitch, then attack the crack with everything you've got".

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 58
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Brazen Buttress

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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