Rockfax Description
Sustained and well protected climbing and, like all good cruxes, it's at the top! Start at the same point as Raw Recruits. Climb to the right-hand side of a roof and break rightwards up the crack which is followed with increasing difficulty to a big flat hold. The next bit is best climbed as quickly as possible without thinking too much about your gear. Finish up a short groove above. © Rockfax

FA. B.Berzins 22.8.81 22/Aug/1981

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Trad climbs for sport climbers, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, A lifetimes worth of inspiration, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

khawk 29/Aug Lead dog
willsm11 08/Aug Lead O/S

Felt steady

with Twisty
Ed morris 07/Aug Lead G/U

Fell off last year, steady today.

with -martin
Hidden 21/Jul Lead
pearson9596 04/Jul Lead O/S
ian d f 04/Jul 2nd O/S

Great lead from Michael

Ed Booth 03/Jun Lead rpt

Fell off the top of this a couple of years back pumped out my box, felt steady today with more sport fitness behind me.

Adam Booth 03/Jun 2nd dog


dan gibson 24/May Lead RP

Failed on this a few years ago. Felt straightforward today.

with Eszter
Hidden 16/May Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May 2nd
Hidden 13/May 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr Lead O/S
markalmack 06/Apr Lead dnf

Still cant do this f***ing route. It is impossible when gripped!

with ian
HAJ Francis 05/Apr Lead dog
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2015 -
oliverpcain ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Harriet Ridley
nathanlee 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S

So very hot...

with Jack Lawledge
irish paul 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Pippa 22/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with mike
Rachel Slater 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Amazing. Misread the crux the first time and almost fell off. Luckily got a good shake out before trying it again with better beta.

tim newton 19/Aug/14 Lead β

Rachel lead it first and then abbed to strip it. No specific beta though.

JM 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo, Dave Pinnington
Patrick Hill 11/Jun/14 TR O/S
with Dan Geh
brices 16/May/14 Lead O/S

pumpy to place gear, steady till you hit the crux then climb quickly and its over. save having a moment and not wanting to leave the little cave near the top :)

with Llinos
markalmack 21/Apr/14 Lead dog

Got to the top this time, but not without a few falls. Found placing gear so pumpy. not sure if it was because i was scared, or just because it's steep... felt a long way off doing it clean.

with james marjot
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead β
Rich Kirby 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Great moves on crux.

Adam Lincoln 17/Apr/14 Lead β
with Rick Kirby
Hidden 14/Apr/14 Lead
Tom Livingstone 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Sweeeeet! Pretty pumped from the start but managed to hold it together. Chuffed.

piken 02/Jun/13 Lead RP

Fell off top move - pulled ropes and did it in one

with Andy
steve_yo 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with sam ring
Fran S8 06/May/13 Lead

First E5 lead!

soph 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Alex Hughes
morganator 04/May/13 Lead

Awesome pitch. Chuffed to get it clean

with Stan Halstead
GuyVG 20/Apr/13 2nd

bloody 'ell, fell off crux. Tim's first E5 onsight, happy days

Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 31/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Emma Twyford
barni 29/Mar/13 Lead
with Oates
barni 29/Mar/13 Lead
with Oates
willoates 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Psyched to get this, rested up most of it, got pumped at the top though

with barni
dav 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Nice wall climbing.

with Gill B
Joughton 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Stunning route, suits my strengths perfectly but I'm still really pleased to have the onsight. My second E5, nearly dropped the move up to the ledge but dug deep!

drysori ?/Aug/12 2nd
with Dunc
theotherpetehill 14/Jul/12 2nd dog

Fell just below ledge

with Ross McKerchar
Hidden 14/Jul/12 Lead dnf
quiffhanger 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Pretty pumped by the time I hit the crux sequence. Good gear so had the confidence to climb it quickly and dynamically despite the run-out.

Ramon Marin 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Great onsight. Almost blew it by placing too much gear. But went for it despite my uncurling fingers and just managed to dyno for the massive hold at the ledge.

with ciaran tracey
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead O/S
switch 26/May/12 2nd rpt
Luke Brooks 15/Apr/12 2nd
with Glyn Hudson
Glyn 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Luke
Adam Booth 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 08/Apr/12 Lead dog

1 fall from rest before crux. 1 hour to there. Totally tanked! Amzing climb!

sam820 08/Apr/12 2nd
with Murdoch
Justin T 07/Apr/12 Lead dog

A vicious cycle of grease, fear overgrip and far too much gear. Massively dogged.

with Cherry
Hidden 07/Apr/12 2nd dog
Hidden 07/Apr/12 2nd β
bigie bob 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Graham Iles 27/Aug/11 2nd

Fell off crux

with Neil Stabbs
thomasadixon 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Mike
al99 14/May/11 2nd dog
colesy 14/May/11 Lead O/S

First E5, Quality.

with al99
Luke Brooks 27/Apr/11 Lead dog

Took the lob from the crux on second attempt ground up, what a fall! Then too pumped for another full go so just got back on and climbed to the top.

with John Orr
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Pippa 23/Apr/11 2nd
with Jon
markalmack 07/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Got pumped, took a whipper, top cam ripped. decked! ouch.

with james marjot
mwatson ??/2011 -
Fran S8 28/Aug/10 2nd
Alex Mason 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Superb climbing, a perfect route. Hard to read at the top, but i didnt know weather to go up, right or left (assumed it would be obvious).

with Laura Perry, Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 18/Aug/10 Lead β

Belayed Alex on it then did it after him - ended up using a completely different sequence anyway (different morphology). Crux felt ok with a bit of technique, rest of it felt pumpy! Top groove felt awkward!

theotherpetehill 01/May/10 2nd dog

Fell off the crux

jacobjacob 01/May/10 Lead O/S

dropped all my wires except one halfway up... nightmare!

eddy-on-the-rocks 01/May/10 Lead dnf

Lame effort!

with ollie, max
Hidden 01/May/10 2nd dog
Dr Caterpillar 24/Apr/10 2nd dog


with Howard
Hidden 10/Oct/09 2nd dog
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead dnf
feilx 28/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Andy L
Hidden 10/Jun/08 2nd dog
Hidden 17/Aug/07 Lead β
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
JulesV ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
Hidden 14/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
switch ?/May/01 Lead O/S
sadams 26/Aug/00 2nd
with Tom Briggs
Tim M ??/2000 2nd
Roget 24/May/99 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
sadams 15/Aug/98 2nd
with Pete Bukowski
Gregory ?/Aug/98 Lead dog
sadams 04/May/98 2nd
with John Boyle
michael burrows 01/Apr/97 2nd
with andy boorman
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Al Willoner
Steve Crowe 04/Apr/96 Lead O/S

Superb endurance climbing

with KM
shoulders 17/Jun/94 2nd
jfletcher 02/May/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
Steve Walker ??/1994 Lead
with paul
keefe 31/Jul/93 AltLd O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 04/May/91 Lead
with Paul Dearden
Hidden 26/Aug/90 Lead
DDDD ??/1990 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/1990 2nd

Scariest second ever!!!!!!!! had balls as big as his forearms!!!!!!

with Steve Ansen
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/87 Lead
shark 01/Jun/87 Lead O/S
with Ian & Andy (brothers)
AlexRenshaw 26/Jun/85 2nd
with Sean Myles
William Robertson ??/1985 Lead O/S
with Shaun Derry
Mike Owen 19/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 03/Apr/83 Lead
with Dave McCann
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
anguskille, Hidden, Neil, phil64, Hidden, Andrew Nelson, mike mo, Justin T, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, JRae, Hidden, Hidden, Dan_Carroll, Hidden, Alex Mason, mattyork2, Hidden, Billg
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High 6b
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set