Gwynedd > Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog) >
 
Valor** E2 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Valerie's Rib Direct
 
Discretion >>
This route is getting very bold. The peg protecting the layback / bridge / crux thing (probably 5C) is unlikely to hold a fall and is usually backed up by a good small wire. The next bit of gear is a peg quite a way down (diagonally).

Ticklists: The Tremadog 'V's', North Wales Rock Graded List.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 133 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

first 2 pitches only as it turned pitch black so finished up the rib to the hs to the left
duncandarnell - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/14 with neil philips

Great top pitch, varied, technical and massively exposed! The crux section above the 'out there' ledge (not really a ledge by the way) proved to be easier than it looked - fortunately so as it looked nails! Still quite hard though. Ed led the first pitch and did it clean once he committed to the sketchy traverse right under the rood.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Ed

Led P1 clean (after dithering on the traverse under the roof), 1 rest on the top crux (bridge / groove / layback thing)
eduardo - AltLd dog - 20/Jul/14 with Misha

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Mar/14

Mike peeled off from above the final overhang on pitch three! One rope through the peg the other through a very small wire. Both held but it was a monstrous fall. So definitely back the peg up with small wires!
Julesthe1st - AltLd - 16/Mar/14 with Andrea, Mike

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

lead p2
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 30/Nov/13 with james marjot

1st pitch. Wish had led 4th was amazing.
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/13 with Henry

Lead P2 and 3
HAJ Francis - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/13

Did the first pitch of "The Grasper" then the last pitch of this route. The peg before the overlap/groove is no longer as I took a fall onto it from the layback move (too long trying to put in a cam rather then just committing to the move). I had in a small nut above and two more below it (rp's) the last of these held. Fall approx 7 meters into space. It felt very bold hence the faffing/falling. Got straight back on and did it with a better top wire that I believe would have held but didn't test this.
31770 - Lead dog - 01/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead - 10/Aug/13

I took first and last pitch. First two pitches were nothing special but last pitch was really cool.
shed_hed - AltLd O/S - 24/May/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 24/May/13 with Darren McMaster

Alice Thompson - AltLd O/S - 21/May/13 with Dan Gibson

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 21/May/13 with alice thompson

greenclimb - Lead O/S - Apr/13 with Sarah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13

Nick Biven - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/12

finished climb in dark, top smooth slab absolutely desperate
mike lawrence? - AltLd - 23/Aug/12 with FatRob

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 05/Aug/12

atapper21 - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/12

Lead Valerie's Rib Direct as the middle pitch by mistake but this is a more logical line anyway. Superb top pitch.
Graham Iles - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Neil Stabbs

Luke Brooks - AltLd rpt - 12/Jul/12 with John Orr

Hidden - 18/May/12

P2 (the easy one)
richardr - AltLd - 06/May/12 with Ivan

P1 Aidan P2 Me P3 Aidan
nickmattia - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with aiden jones

malteserEd - 2nd - 05/May/12

simonp - AltLd O/S - May/12 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/12 with Will

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - Sep/11

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Ed Booth

Led first and last pitch. Drizzly. Major rope jam action on first pitch.
Ed Booth - AltLd - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/11

p1. Tenuous ramp on last pitch. Amazing position.
mynyddresident - AltLd O/S - 12/May/11 with liam

Liam FLeming - 12/May/11 with nick

Dave Searle - May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Pegs are a bit dubious, take a few small wires. fantastic top pitch. balancey then steep and pumpy
Glyn - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Will Taylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

First 2 pitches only, good blind moves under the roof.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Aaron

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 2011 with Sean Grady

mr mills - AltLd rpt - 10/Oct/10 with Gareth

Bargate_Champ - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/10

lead first and last pitch.
willoates - AltLd - 23/May/10 with Steve

seconded first pitch clean, led second pitch, seconded all but the very top moves of third pitch clean, and topped out a little off route.
Steeve - AltLd dog - 23/May/10 with will

3 Names - Lead O/S - 02/May/10 with Dan H

didnt do P3 as it was getting dark....first 2 pitches are ard HVS or soft E1 i lead the first-lovely boldness followed bysteeper, harder better protectd climbing
Duncan Campbell - UKC - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/10 with Ed

mr mills - 2010 with Elfyn (chang)

simeclimb68 - 2010

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 01/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd dog - 01/Aug/09

barni - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/09 with Ewan

benchwarmer - 2nd dog - 30/Jul/09 with Owen Barnicott

NeilGriffiths - 25/Jul/09 with Dave Almond

Dave Almond - AltLd dog - 25/Jul/09 with Neil Griffiths

mux - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/09 with Simon Frost

frost - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/09 with D Garry

Richard Horn - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09

Brown - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with John

Only P 1 & 2 so missed crux, maybe a HVS tick..
babymoac - AltLd - 24/Jan/09 with Pete C

nige - AltLd - 2009 with adam ellwood

barni - AltLd O/S - 2009 with Ewan

Seymore Butt - 2009

Led the 5a pitch - thought the top pitch was desparate.
mikelaing - AltLd - Oct/08 with Pete Harrison

Led top pitch. Vastly underrated - as good as Grasper.Solid E2.
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/08 with Ewan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/07

IOAN D - Lead - 30/Apr/06 with gareth

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

paul m hadley - Lead - 2004

James B - AltLd - 07/Sep/03 with Phil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/01

Marti999 - AltLd - 2000

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1999

Hidden - Lead - Jun/98

I did first pitch; Mark did rest. Mind blowing exposure on top pitch - superb
nickdonohue - AltLd - 15/Feb/98 with Mark McCarthy

Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 1998 with Ian Owen

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - Jul/95

Cowflinger - Lead O/S - Apr/95 with Craig

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/94 with Phil Dowthwaite

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/92

WB - 1992

Bob - 1990

keefe - Jul/89 with Johnny Adams

pitches 1,2,3, previously RB/SGC
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 25/May/87

andy gittins - 1985

Melok - AltLd - 1985

mark-abz - Lead - 01/Nov/84 with Walter P

sadams - AltLd - 15/Sep/84 with Celia Bull

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 07/May/84 with Kim Greenald

jasper11 - 1984

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - Jun/83 with Phillippa Mathews

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 31/Jan/82 with Paul Clark

andy gittins - 1982

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/81

Hammy - 2nd - 26/Jun/81 with Rob Lawson

Hidden - 25/May/81

Led the main pitch. Seemed quite hard and exposed.
Andy Stephenson - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/81 with Chris Plant

Falko - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/81 with A N Other

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/79

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1979 with Mike Wright

Sean Kelly - Mar/77 with Bob Millward

ian caton - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/76

Mike Owen - 28/Mar/76 with John Roberts

Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 18/Nov/75 with Dave Hollows

petemeads - Lead - 1975

Falko - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/74 with Dick Swinden

greenbuoy - AltLd - 30/May/71 with Bob Lister, Terry Taylor

About 1975 (Friends had just come out and used one for the first time)Done perhaps 3 times since, last time seconded Phil Gibson
David Smith - AltLd - 1970 with Al Bennett

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Katex, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 54
hard E30 of 20
E30 of 20
easy E30 of 20
hard E213 of 20
E27 of 20
easy E20 of 20
hard E10 of 20
E10 of 20
easy E10 of 20
hard 6a0 of 10
6a0 of 10
easy 6a0 of 10
hard 5c2 of 10
5c8 of 10
easy 5c0 of 10
hard 5b0 of 10
5b0 of 10
easy 5b0 of 10
3 Stars16 of 24
2 Stars7 of 24
1 Star1 of 24
0 Stars0 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent

Lead34 of 133 (25.6%)
Followed8 of 133 (6.0%)
Alt Leads59 of 133 (44.4%)
Unknown32 of 133 (24.1%)

'Climbed'69 of 133 (51.9%)
clean O/S54 of 133 (40.6%)
clean rpt4 of 133 (3.0%)
dogged6 of 133 (4.5%)