UKC Logbook - 'Tactician'

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Pembrokeshire > St. Govan's Head >

Tactician

HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Blucher

Depraved >>

[Dylan enjoying the crux on Tactition, 3 kb]

This excellent and popular route follows the big corner above the centre of the ledge but it does have a bit of a stopper move at half-height. Climb a short corner and then move right into the main corner. Follow this to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. J.Lamb 31.12.76 31/Dec/1976

Photo: Dylan enjoying the crux on Tactition © dj hannaford
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 271 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

tlmarjot - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Josh Marshall

Hidden - 2nd β - 06/May/13

Great route! Very hot and atmospheric with the waves crashing beneath.
Thunderthighsontheloose - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Bryony Weathers

Chris Hind - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Bry

nic42 - 2nd dog - 06/May/13 with tim m, josh

Fell a metre or so at the stopper move on the crux. Cam held my fall.
lyneux - Lead dnf - 05/May/13 with Paul Clarkson

Damn that stopper move! Take more chalk next time as the rock had a nasty wet sheen.
lyneux - 2nd dog - 05/May/13 with Paul Clarkson

Stuart Johnston - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Adam Ryan

jacobjacob - Lead rpt - 04/May/13

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

dj hannaford - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13 with Tom colquhoun

MoWalker3 - 12/Apr/13 with Cormac

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/13

David Kay - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/13 with Dan Lane

Hard work through the crux section.
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 03/Apr/13 with David Kirsfelds

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/12 with Gareth Greeves

gg4419 - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/12 with Nick

Mowglee - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/12 with Ali

dprctr - 2nd β - 26/Aug/12 with Patrick

Kirill - 2nd rpt - 26/Aug/12 with Charles Moreton

cem - Lead rpt - 26/Aug/12 with Kirill Spiridonov

paddygoodwinlondon - Lead - 26/Aug/12 with David Proctor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12

Tricky and quite strenuous due to wettness through crux
Ian Broome - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Simon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/12

JulesV - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12

conorcussell - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 23/Jun/12

Nice route, a bit damp
Ross.Cooper - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Sarah Wright

andy dunn - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with J

Kyuzo - 06/May/12

hrgcb - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12 with Virgil Scott

alasdair19 - May/12

melonmike - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Josh

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/12

haydng - Lead rpt - 25/Mar/12 with RachelG

RMG - 2nd - 25/Mar/12 with haydng

Ciro - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/12 with Ramon

Ramon Marin - 2nd - 17/Mar/12 with ciaran tracey

Greasy at the bottom when I did it, but a nice, straight forward climb.
sara n - Lead O/S - 2012 with KB

turdburglar - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Definitely not E1 as suggested in the new CC guide. Nice climbing up a strong line.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/11 with Dan

Seconded after a failed lead attempt.
climbingpixie - 2nd - 14/Oct/11 with Andy

Hidden - Lead β - 14/Oct/11

dpmUK - 2nd dog - 14/Oct/11 with victim of mathematics

annetweddell - Lead - 02/Oct/11 with Jeff

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Ian Milward

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Sep/11

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Rob Adie, Chris Ashton

Lovely sustained bridging
Batt - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Mel

Solo TR
pembrokeshirecaver - TR β - 29/Sep/11

Hard for the grade, definite 5b crux imo.
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Tom

Easy when dry.
Kirill - Lead β - 28/Aug/11 with Paul Baxter

Tough crux, easier if you're taller I'd think.
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Becca

liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11

Temporarily stopped by stopper move!
Dizz - Lead - 27/Aug/11 with Matt K

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/11

TheMonkeyMan - 2nd β - 23/Aug/11

Jenny Crook - Lead - 19/Aug/11 with Madeleine Wilson

matthewjames - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/11 with Alan Saul

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11

Caspar - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Ross Davidson

Fell off!
Jams Crwca - Lead dnf - 10/Aug/11 with Lee

Matthew Robinson - 2nd - 09/Aug/11 with John Nuttall

redjerry - TR O/S - Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/11

haydng - Lead rpt - 23/Jul/11 with Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead β - 09/Jul/11 with GF

steve.warrington - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Nik Goile

Stone Muppet - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/11 with cc

Started raining just before the crux...managed to grease my way up, nice!
chriscarroll - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/11 with Crispin

Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Jim, Si

Middle section was a little interesting
ojp - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Jim, Dave

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11

robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Si

Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Jun/11

Really well protected
mountain.martin - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/11

2nd attempt, rested on gear on crux. Think about where to place your feet (bridging) to get up this.
Jams Crwca - Lead dog - 11/Jun/11 with Ed morris

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/May/11

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11 with Jonny

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/May/11

Chris M - Lead - 24/May/11 with Tommy B

martinazando - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with Sarah G

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/11

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 13/May/11 with pabage

pabbage - 12/May/11

r fizzle - 2nd O/S - 01/May/11 with Olli Crudge

Olli-C - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Rachel Slater

Little AndyH - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11

squicky - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/11 with spidey

spidey - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11

A great steep route absolutely littered with jugs, good rests and interesting moves. Didn't really think the crux was much of a 'stopper' move, just a bit 'go-ey'.
Byronius Maximus - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Alex Twist

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/11

simonf - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Simon, Chris

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 23/Apr/11 with Jules McKim

brilliant route
julesmckim - 23/Apr/11

Shauna - 2nd rpt - 10/Apr/11 with Annelies

Sgt. Vest - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Rich bennet

Really good, with a tough crux, wicked effort to Heather... A brilliant bit of corner climbing with loads of gear and some nice rests. Tough HVS.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - 2nd - 03/Apr/11 with Florence the Machine

Nice route, fully understood what the guidebook said about stopper moves though!
hetaher - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Duncan Campbell

Dan_Carroll - TR rpt - 26/Mar/11 with Mr. Shunt

Chose this as a 'warm down'...anything but! With no energy or gear left for the crux I backed off. Felt as hard as The Arrow.
jonnybull - Lead dnf - 13/Mar/11 with Pedro

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Take a full rack and another if you like!
Jams Crwca - Lead dnf - 17/Oct/10 with themadbrown

twodada - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/10 with Seb Fisher Green

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Oct/10

Katya - 2nd - 30/Aug/10 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

GarethHall - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Sarah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10

cem - 2nd rpt - 27/Aug/10 with Paul Bolton

wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with nic

mynyddresident - 2nd - 22/Aug/10 with wolf

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/10

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

Hard crux for 5a
catblack - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Andy Barker

A tough crux.
Andrew Barker - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Cat Black

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Will Jones

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10

ian d f - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/10 with Mark

markfromstoke - 2nd - 24/Jun/10 with Ian

hardest HVS I have done in Pembroke by a country mile.. should be E1 surely. (if the butcher is E3 this definitely E1)
Dan_Carroll - Lead rpt - 31/May/10 with Dan Hancock

Danhan - 2nd - 31/May/10 with Dan Carroll

petegruf - 2nd - 03/May/10 with Chris B

Excellent and straightforward. Sustained with good gear.
lyneux - 2nd O/S - 03/May/10 with Peter Murphy, Chris Bull

Epic failings. Too pumped to lead crux. Lowered off. Fell off crux on second. Felt hard.
RedFox - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/10 with Tom K

brockers - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Maggie Bass

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/10

Tim W - 2nd rpt - 07/Mar/10 with Paul Black

irish paul - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Tim W

gonggashan - 2010

Seymore Butt - 2010

mattyork2 - 2nd - 31/Oct/09 with Johnny Richard

Laurence Everitt - Lead dog - 26/Sep/09 with Sophie Heavy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09

simonp - Lead O/S - Sep/09 with Andy Reeve

felt tough through crux but good gear beneath it. quality route :)
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/09 with Dickon

very pumpy
pembrokeshirecaver - 2nd dog - 03/Jul/09 with Edmund Morris

Greasy and awkward.
DafSWMC - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Chris Wyatt

Was really great to lead this route,felt much better than seconding it.
RobRock84 - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/09 with Robin neath

A bit damp.
chris sm - 2nd rpt - 30/May/09 with Pippa Froggatt

Leelogs - 2nd - 23/May/09 with Chris

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 23/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 03/May/09

joehanks61 - 02/May/09 with Guy Reid

Has abit of everything Handjams,laybacks etc,A route that just keeps on coming,exellent climbing,enjoyable route
RobRock84 - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Robin neath

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09

Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 2009 with GF

A brilliant route and long!
gingernick - Lead - 07/Dec/08 with Dean,Daryl

matsavage - 2nd - 15/Nov/08

Richard Hession - 2nd O/S - 23/Sep/08 with Stu

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Sep/08

Really slimy and damp. I tried to lead it and had to bring my partner up part way up to do the crux as it was just too wet. Grim.
Shauna - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Steve

Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/08

Kirill - Lead dnf - 25/Aug/08 with Pete Horn

morganator - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/08 with Si Cooke

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/08

An enjoyable exercise in bridging (which is currently spelt wrong in the UKC database).
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 13/May/08 with Clare

RocknRoll - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Matthew Theobold

Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 03/May/08 with Sam

mrtom - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08

backed off War Games which felt really greasy, traversed onto this which didn't feel much better
Mark Walter - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Sarah and Alex

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/08

Bob Loblaw - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Dave Reaney

Julian Wedd - Lead - 2008 with A. Howarth

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 16/Sep/07

NeilGriffiths - Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd β - 23/Jul/07

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/07 with Rebecca Holland

Beckholland - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/07 with Dan_Carroll

Circus - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/07 with Chris Pollard

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/07

feilx - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/07 with Phil Davis

btc - Lead - 23/Jun/07 with Heather Rogers

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 28/May/07 with Dave Taylor

Tim W - 2nd rpt - 19/May/07 with Dylan Tomlinson

featuresforfeet - 2nd O/S - 05/May/07 with Team Ginger

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Apr/07

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/07

Tim W - Lead rpt - 31/Mar/07 with Crispin

vet - 05/Mar/07 with Helen

Rob Kennard - 2007

RichS-Bristol - 2007

willjones - Lead O/S - 2007

Done again with Nik. 30/5/11
chris wyatt - Lead rpt - 2007 with Dave Reaney

Stone Muppet - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

janegallwey - 2nd - 2007

GeckoGeek - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/06 with Arin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/06

colin milton - 2nd - 22/Aug/06 with fenclimb

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/06

Wil Treasure - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with JenW, MartinC

david morse - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with chris todd

dave657 - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/06 with mel_1

Possibly the hardest HVS in Pembroke!?! Do you jam/layback/levitate-bridge through the crux. Personally opted for a layback. Great route.
Oliver Sherman - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/06 with John Eales

chris j - Lead O/S - 31/May/06 with Mark Davies

Tim W - 2nd O/S - 01/May/06 with Pippa Whitehouse, Jamie Moss

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - May/06

Bern - 2006

chris sm - Lead - 2006 with Pippa Froggatt

belay bunny turned bad - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/05

A great route that was made quite a bit spicier by the wetness of the crux after the recent downpours.
Stefan Kruger - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/05 with Sarah Porter

It was wet through and felt about E4!
Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 19/May/05 with Mark Glaister

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 01/May/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

a_radiohead_fan - 2005

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Jul/04 with Beesley

Boxy - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/04 with Mick

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/May/04

alex_th - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/02