Rockfax Description
A direct line up the wall between Tactician and Deranged - not quite as good as its neighbours but still very worthwhile. Start just right of Tactician and climb up a crack rightwards to meet Deranged. Follow this for 4m then step left and climb a groove to a ledge. Finish straight up the wall above. © Rockfax

FA. J.deMontjoye 3.86 Mar/1986

patrickcd 26/Sep 2nd
with Andy
Hidden 26/Sep Lead β
soph 16/Jul Lead rpt
with Adam Brown
Hidden 08/Apr Lead O/S
WB 04/Apr Lead O/S

This was meant to be a warm up, but nearly fell off the greasy crack.

with Anna
Hidden 04/Apr 2nd O/S
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
simon kimber 05/Sep/14 2nd
with Rob Andrews
ian d f 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Semi led - didn't pull the ropes when Steve bailed.

Pippa 05/May/14 Lead O/S
mountain_jay 05/May/14 2nd
Rich Kirby 21/Apr/14 2nd
Adam Lincoln 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Rick Kirby
Mike Tutt 21/Apr/14 2nd
Stefan_Morris 07/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Ed morris 07/Apr/14 Lead β
with stefan
ian caton ?/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Abi
Ed morris 11/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Adam Bevan
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Olli-C 06/May/13 Lead rpt

E2 5c in guide and as hard/harder than deranged. Line is escapable and not very defined. Starting crack is hard, groove is techy and upper headwall is fingery and really fun although escapable up tactician.

Hidden 06/May/13 2nd
Rachel Slater 06/May/13 Lead O/S
VPJB ??/2013 -
irish paul ??/2013 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 13/Aug/12 2nd β
with Dougie
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Raff
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Billg 19/May/12 Lead O/S

very greasy. Made the start feel very hard

with Ollie
tlmarjot 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Alex Cannon
Hidden 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
valecoastclimber 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
annetweddell 02/Oct/11 -

E1 5b in old Rockfax, elevated to E2 in newer one. Well, has anyone got up this recently? Abandonned about 30 feet up. H A R D.

with Jeff
Dave Rumney 02/Oct/11 Lead

greasy and damp low down (where it matters). Very loose block near the top

with Tanya Milner
Graham Iles 27/Aug/11 2nd
with Neil Stabbs
John Tanner 22/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Nails! Had to back off from the crack, and rest a lot, after getting very pumped. Then got back on it and got it clean

with Oli Brend
owb106 22/Aug/11 2nd β
thomasadixon 11/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nails crux, felt hard for E2 let alone E1.

with Mike
Phill Mitch 24/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with mick
mountain.martin 13/Jun/11 2nd dog

one short(ish) rest

Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
nickcanute ??/2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Fran S8 28/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead
Pippa 28/Aug/10 2nd
with Jon
frost 27/Aug/10 2nd
with N Griffiths, D Garry
NeilGriffiths 27/Aug/10 Lead
with Dave Garry, Simon Frost
Alex Mason 26/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Done on the wettest, greasiest day ever. Found the start hard then sustained and technical for the rest. A great route, just a bit overshadowed. Hard E2.

with Mikey G
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Dan McManus
Mark Warnett ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S

hardest E2 iv done the crux at the bottom is nails then sustained the rest of the way

Hidden 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S
gnc760 14/Jun/10 2nd

Stiff start. Worth E2

with James Kay
feilx 16/May/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
heather rogers 16/May/10 2nd O/S
with Felix
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd
LC ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
RobRock84 31/Jul/09 2nd O/S

an unergraded route for sure,great route with great positions,safe to say hard E2 tho!

with Adam Bevan
ASchwirtz 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Mat tDrain
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
morganator 24/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Neil McAdie
Hidden 14/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/May/08 2nd dog
ksjs 08/May/08 Lead rpt

still stunning and quite probably E3. great, varied climbing all the way including some quite technical stuff in the groove

Bern 05/May/08 2nd
with Andy Mos
Hidden 16/Sep/07 2nd
twodada 06/May/07 2nd

a hard climb, left me wasted at the top

with Ion
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 15/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Bern ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
JamieAyres 12/Jun/05 2nd dog

really struggled on this one

Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/03 2nd
ian caton ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 07/Aug/00 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 -
Graham Iles 19/Aug/98 Lead
with Jenny Tweedy
Hidden 15/Aug/98 2nd
Hidden 30/May/96 -
Alan James - UKC and UKH ?/Jul/95 Lead
Hidden ??/1994 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 23
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Not Set