Draught Dodger** E5 6b

Rockfax Description
The route up the wall right of Deranged has a steep start with a wicked move. Start 4m right of Deranged. Pull up the wall on huge holds until they run out then make a hard move to a ledge. Move up then swing right onto a slabby groove which leads more easily to a break below the overhanging headwall. Finger traverse right to the arete, then move back left to a large hold above. Finish direct. © ROCKFAX

FA. B.Berzins 22.8.81 22/Aug/1981
Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 9 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

After quite a massive whipper off the top head wall, with incoming tide and last orders 30 mins away, bailed out to the right after the traverse. Start is pretty nails. Has now a bomber offset nut in place which was impossible to retrieve after a couple of falls.
climbomaniac - 2nd dnf - 09/May/15 with Ross McKerchar

Nails. 4 goes to get the start then dropped the great positioned but very contrived finished. Decided last orders was more important than round 5. Maybe went too far left at top? Didn't feel like sane ground, even for a sandbag E5. Ripped a lot of gear on the whipper too - slightly dubious rock?
quiffhanger - Lead dog - 09/May/15 with Nicholas

Alt lead in that we both tried the bottom bit to work out how, then John dogged it with my beta, then I dogged it following. Tough couple of moves and very blind onsight.
Justin T - AltLd dog - Apr/15 with John Mcshea

bigie bob - Lead RP - 19/Apr/14

Good hard crux, after that a bit rambling as it seems you could go anywhere. Fell first go with hand on the ledge.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 28/Aug/11 with Becca

JRae - 2nd - 26/Aug/11 with M Watson

actually pretty technical, fell off loads before getting it just trying to pull straight through in the classic Pembroke style, top wall is excellent but all much easier than the crux
mwatson - Lead rpt - 2011

Easy for the grade.
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/04 with KM

Alan James - UKC and UKH - TR - Aug/94

Total votes cast 12
hard E60 of 4
E60 of 4
easy E60 of 4
hard E50 of 4
E52 of 4
easy E52 of 4
hard E40 of 4
E40 of 4
easy E40 of 4
hard 6c0 of 4
6c0 of 4
easy 6c0 of 4
hard 6b0 of 4
6b3 of 4
easy 6b0 of 4
hard 6a1 of 4
6a0 of 4
easy 6a0 of 4
3 Stars0 of 4
2 Stars3 of 4
1 Star1 of 4
0 Stars0 of 4
Bag of .....0 of 4
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.