Nordwestwand 6a
[Bockmattli, Nordwestwand, 7th pitch 5a+, 2 kb]450m, 12 pitches. Bockmattli Grosser Turm. Bolted but trad gear necessary too. Additional 3 pitches of exposed/grassy scrambling to reach the start. From the summit 2-3 hours of abseils and easy climbing (3b) to reach the point of walking off.

Photo: Bockmattli, Nordwestwand, 7th pitch 5a+ © rlrs
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This climb is in 2 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Finally I climbed a route on the North Face! The idea was to go for the Direkt Nordwand but there were at least three other parties on it, so we deviated to this route. Varied climbing in and on faces, cracks, and chimneys. Rock sometimes loose but always sharp. The route requires a lot of additional protection, particularly if one is not really 'in the zone' (as it was my case), but it offers plenty of placements (very glad we had a n.2 cam, I wish we had two). Finding the way down after topping out was one of the hardest parts. My body was still weary two days after the climb.
Marco Plebani - AltLd - 11/Jul/15 with Kevin Märki

rlrs - AltLd - Sep/12

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