Rockfax Description
The approach is a little awkward, but the final groove is well worth it. Scramble up a steep vegetated path through the undergrowth to a sloping ledge below the steep wall.
1) 5c, 25m. Climb up a shallow groove to a tiny ledge. Move round the rib on the left to a niche. Pull out left again round a rib, then climb a groove to a small roof. Heave round this then use a crack on the left to move up to a well-positioned stance below the intimidating groove.
2) 5c, 20m. Move right and climb the brilliant and very sustained groove with a hard pull to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Kipper-Phil Smith 21/Jul Lead rpt
with Shaun
Dale ?/Jun AltLd dog

What a route. unfortunately we both got it slightly wrong. I lead the 1st pitch felt I was going well had to work abit. Did all the hard moves just one last move to do and somehow got my self into a position I could not get out of. I knew I was off so I jumped for the hold which obviously didn't work and fell. Shud of been a small fall but with brand new skinny ropes ment I fell around 10m. Got on it again and did it fine second go. Tim had the infamous top pitch Super bridging leads to a awkward exit. Tim did the same thing as me on the last hard move he was off. Again a small fall turned into a 10m rope stretch fall new ropes for you. He got on it again and using the arÍte behind him got up it fine. All in all a fun experience

with Tim
Hannes B 24/May AltLd O/S


with Tom
Brian Rodgers 16/Apr Lead O/S
with Esther Bott
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
jcw ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
pmurdy 12/Oct/13 2nd
with Mike W
damob123 01/Oct/13 2nd

Ended up on valor for last 8m. Leader had a fall and peg snapped on final section. Really fun stuff and a Great climb though!

andyinglis 20/May/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. P2 less desperate than the guide made out!

dave o 20/May/13 AltLd O/S
DavidR 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Led both pitches.

tim newton 29/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with rich gentry
Tom Livingstone 16/Nov/12 Lead rpt

Led P1, still flipping mega!

with Gwen Lancashire
shed_hed 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Awesome!! Slightly awkward start but with really good sustained climbing on the face up to the crux crack at the end. Had to sprint the last couple of moves on this to get it without falling as the pump suddenly set it. Very happy to get this clean!

Hidden 26/Aug/12 AltLd
owain86 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P1, stunning route!

Tom Livingstone 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2, flipping mega!

Hidden 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
david morse 18/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

excting approach, amazing top pitch

with todd
Hidden 18/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 12/Mar/12 Lead O/S

In a one-er!

with Will
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Katex 13/Sep/11 2nd

Mike led. I had one rest on the rope in P1

with Mike
myoung 07/Aug/11 2nd
with Mat E, Tom Sampson
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/11 2nd
feilx 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch, last climb on a long day felt hard

with Jake
jacobjlloyd 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led the first pitch. Both pitches felt similar in difficulty, though different in character. Pitch 2 is basically Zukator but with holds! I bet you cant climb this without smiling.

with Felix
adam06 04/Jun/11 2nd
with Ryan
spidey 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with adam
kdalzell 27/May/11 2nd
Liam FLeming 27/May/11 Lead
with karen dalzell
Hidden 22/May/11 AltLd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 17/Apr/11 AltLd
with Crag Jones, Dan Donovan
samrad 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

lead the top pitch. was awesome. easier than it looks from below.

with james G
farmus21 29/Jan/11 AltLd

Lead P1. Exciting and unlikely line, steep but juggy. Suits the name. Top pitch was excellent but numb hands made for a Grasping finish.

with Sam Radcliffe
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Alex Mason 04/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

George led first pitch of zukator, i had quick go at 2nd pitch but had low psyche and uninspired by the gear, reversed and finished up the grasper.

with George Ullrich
dominiclincoln 04/Sep/10 -
with attirechimps, griffon
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
Hidden ?/Jul/10 -
drcorbasisgod 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with James Dear
Duncan Campbell 12/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led p.1, awesome, lots of hard sections on it...was pretty hungover and retching whenever I put wires or krabs in my mouth! 2nd pitch is cool, sustained bridging with good gear and a tough move at the top.

with Bubbles
robw007 ?/May/10 Lead O/S
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 15/Dec/09 Lead dog
feilx 12/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

lead 1st pitch

with Andy L
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/09 AltLd
switch 05/Jul/09 Lead rpt
Ri ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Anja Jones
mux 25/May/09 AltLd

Fecking great route ..what more could you ask for at the grade..? bit of gardening on the aproach maybe!

with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths
frost 25/May/09 AltLd
with N Griffiths, D Garry
dan gibson 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with john nuttal
Glyn 02/Apr/09 AltLd

Lead 1st pitch. A bit of poor rock and in places poor gear on the first pitch. Second pitch is pure quality. Awesome route. Approach is in much need of gardening

with Zion
Hidden 21/Mar/09 AltLd
Brown 15/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Nicos
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Rich Kirby 21/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Led in 1 pitch.

with Ewan
nige ??/2008 AltLd
with adam ellwood
Marcus ??/2008 -
joe larner 25/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

Brilliant. led P2

Hidden 19/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
barni ??/2007 AltLd O/S


with Paul James
Hidden 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Julian Wedd 10/Jun/04 Lead
with A. Howarth
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/May/02 Lead rpt
with Viv
Hidden 01/Apr/01 Lead O/S
WB 24/May/00 AltLd O/S
with Jez
Derek Ryden 13/May/00 Lead O/S
with John Bunny
Ed Booth ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Tim Sparrow ??/1999 Lead

Unstable bowels made the wide bridging pitch rather trying for Rod! Touche!

with Rod Eddies
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/98 Lead
Hidden 31/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 02/Mar/97 AltLd
with Muir Morton
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
Hidden 01/Sep/96 AltLd
michael burrows 03/Mar/96 AltLd rpt
with steve ward
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
Cowflinger ?/Apr/95 Lead rpt
with Craig
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
Hidden 16/Apr/94 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 30/Mar/94 AltLd
with Alan Holden
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
Roget 12/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 23/Jun/90 Lead
Neil R 06/May/90 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch with 2 rests

with Ian
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
DDDD ??/1990 -
Bob ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
John Marsland 17/Aug/89 2nd
with Dave Mould
Hidden ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S
Chris Wright 31/May/89 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH 25/Jul/88 Lead

In one.

with Nigel Boothroyd
Richard Weller 02/Jul/88 2nd
with John (from KMC)
Nick Biven 30/Apr/88 Lead O/S
michael burrows 27/Sep/87 AltLd O/S
with pete roberts
Hidden 09/Sep/87 AltLd
Hidden 30/May/87 2nd
Steve Crowe 24/May/87 AltLd O/S
steve taylor ?/Jul/86 AltLd
with Matt ????
shark 06/Sep/85 AltLd O/S
with Seb Grieve
Dave Musgrove 24/Aug/85 Lead O/S
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 26/Jun/85 2nd
Hidden ??/1985 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1985 Lead
with Duncan Bond
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Sep/84 AltLd
with Phil James
sadams 19/Aug/84 Lead
with Chris Thwaites
keefe 15/Apr/84 -
Simon2005 ??/1984 2nd

Found the second pitch desperate.

with JimB
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/83 Lead
with Phillippa Mathews
Hidden ??/1983 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jun/82 Lead
redjerry 04/May/82 AltLd O/S
with Bruce Kerr
Bruce Kerr 04/Apr/82 AltLd
stp ??/1982 Lead
andy gittins ??/1982 -
Mike Owen 16/May/81 AltLd rpt
with Phil Ralph
Hidden ?/Aug/80 Solo O/S
Hammy 04/Apr/80 AltLd
with Tony Mitchell
Ian Jones ??/1980 Lead RP
with Neil Plant
Mike Owen 19/Aug/79 AltLd rpt
with Keith Robertson
Steve Bell ??/1978 -
ian caton ??/1977 Lead
with steve lane
Mike Owen 05/Dec/76 AltLd rpt
with John Roberts
Mark Kemball 13/Nov/76 AltLd
with Ian Milward
Mike Owen 29/May/76 Lead rpt
with Pete White
Mike Owen 15/May/76 AltLd O/S
with Sandy Doby
Bolt Phobia 15/Apr/76 2nd
with Martyn Hurn
uphillnow ??/1976 Lead

about 1976, several times since.2/5/83 with C French, 30/8/85 with Neil McNab

petemeads ??/1975 Lead

One of my favourite climbs, especially the top pitch

with Mick Brady
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
RichardMc 06/Jan/72 2nd
with Roger Everett
mikej 19/Apr/67 Lead
with Mike Byles, Geoff Williams
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 21
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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